2004 Toyota Tacoma 4x4

Hi : everyone I just joined, although ,I visited this site many times to browse around. I'm having trouble greeting everyone as a new member, also I do not know if this greeting is going to be posted in the right place ,if not ...my appologies. Anyway youll have to put up with me until, I can navigate around this site a little easier.

I have one question regarding the lubrication of the driveshaft universals which is done, usually every 7000KM or between oil changes using (100% synthetic) What's the best way? Should I : Chock the front wheels,
place the jack under the rear differential and raise the back wheels off the ground just enough to turn them(wheels) as i grease the universals ,turning the wheels should turn the driveshaft and in turn position the grease nipples that I can't connect with.
Best regards Karl

 

Welcome to TW!

Your questions might be better-answered in the 1st Gen. Tacomas or Technical Chat forums.

 

Hi, Karl. Welcome. Yup, you got it right about chocking, etc.

However, the driveline service interval is every 30k miles, same as for the differentials.

Here is the 2001 maintenance schedule:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/174329-2001-toyota-scheduled-maintenance-guide.html

and you can download the factory service manual, too:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/5696-2001-2004-tacoma-factory-service-manual.html

 

Thanks for the reply Scorcar,Norton and m3bassman : At first I was crawling underneath and greasing the nipples that I could connect with and then ,crawl out , start the truck and back-up a short distance to reposition the driveshaft, so I could access the grease nipples I could'nt get too. My thought was, that if I jacked up on the differential enough to raise the tires off the ground, this would allow me to spin the wheels ,enough to turn the driveshaft to a new position. That way I could finish the job in a very short time. Chocking the front wheels would stop the truck from moving when I'm underneath .

 

Welcome to TW from Sparks, NV

 

I do this as well.

for the front driveshaft you can just turn it by hand as long as the transfer case is in 2wd.

Also you don't have to grease the slip joint (the one in the middle not near any u joints) till it squirts out. I generally do about 7-10 pumps in that one and call it good.

 

go to autozone, they have a nice grease gun there for pretty cheap.

 

oh take that sucker back, thats ridiculous.

 

If you take it to Jiffy Lube, say goodbye to your TW membership.

You would be better off taking it to Krazie.

 

Did you open the nozzle?

 

My truck had a jiffy lube sticker on the windshield when I bought it. the drain plug was torqued to about 4000 ft lbs along with the filter.

 

Your right it is a lot of work ,but I don't have any friends that own a garage so alot of the repairs are done on the driveway,I also have a slight pitch , so chocking the wheels is mandatory for this job, because you can't apply the parking brake in order to do this job. I have a good grease gun and I purchased a flexable hose with a fitting ,so it's easier to get into more complicated places ,but still ,in order to to grease all the points the driveshaft must spin around at least 180 degrees.
I want to thank the others for there input ,as this information was very good . Nothing nicer then talking to people that have been there before

I gotta go now ...I'm at work.......Best regards to All ...Karl

 

HeY m3basman: Don't throw that grease gun away ,They can sometimes
be a pain to re-load and prime . I'll get some advice from a guy who greases the equipment here at work and i'll get back to you with a solution to this problem ,Give me 8 days, as I'm finishing my shift today
Best Regards Karl.

 

You in fact can apply the parking brake to do this job. At least on my truck, all the grease fittings point in the same direction on the driveshaft so once I am able to get to one of them, I can get to all of them.

Just getting it lined up initially is where you need to be able to roll it back a few inches.

No need to jack up the rear of the truck or chock the wheels.

 

Welcome from SoCal!

 

Thanks for the input Steve ...I am going to take another look at this job and see if this can be done on a 2004. I had a 2000, but had to give it up due to frame rot with only 142,000km.

 

Aloha