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Icon AAL problems

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by hedman, Apr 16, 2011.

  1. Jan 23, 2012 at 5:08 AM
    #21
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    I don't have any pictures of the install but it was pretty simple. I'm sure you read above about the angle grinder needed to remove the old leaf pack clamps. Other than that, they install just like any other AAL.

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/54186-aal-install-second-gen.html
     
  2. Jan 23, 2012 at 12:39 PM
    #22
    tALOHAma

    tALOHAma Well-Known Member

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    Anytime fog mod, debadged, drop in k&n, smoked taillights, led inside and out,
    After reading all the differentt threads on this subject I've decided to keep my overload leaf. Is the procedure the same either way, as far as cutting the clamps? I only ask because my wheelers pack came with VERY minimal directions. In fact, if you could just post a pic of your set up that would be awesome.
     
  3. Jan 23, 2012 at 1:45 PM
    #23
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    The procedure is the same whether you're leaving the overload in place or not. The only difference is the amount of lift at the end.
    Here's the only picture I have of the assembly. That pic is the top 3 leafs from a TSB leaf pack, the 3-leaf AAL, then the overload leaf. The 2 leaf pack bands that hold the top 3 leafs together need to be cut off and the rivit heads need to be ground flush and I'd recommend hitting them with some paint to prevent rusting. Remember to remove the graphite friction pad before grinding and mark the front/back of the leafs so you know how to put them back together. An angle grinder will make short work of the grinding/cutting. If you want any pictures in particular, let me know. The set-up is on the truck now and covered in salt but I'll see what I can do!
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Jan 23, 2012 at 7:18 PM
    #24
    tALOHAma

    tALOHAma Well-Known Member

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    Anytime fog mod, debadged, drop in k&n, smoked taillights, led inside and out,
    Thanks Mike. That helps a lot. Can you just tap the rivit out? (if it's even possible)
     
  5. Jan 23, 2012 at 7:21 PM
    #25
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Nope, that sucker looked like it was pressed in there hot. I hammered on it to see if it would pop out and it wouldn't budge.
     
  6. Jan 23, 2012 at 7:22 PM
    #26
    Yoytoda

    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    Roland
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    not really. i hit it pretty hard a few times and it didnt budge. After cutting and smoothing just leave the other part of the rivet in there... youll be better off.
     
  7. Jan 23, 2012 at 7:51 PM
    #27
    tALOHAma

    tALOHAma Well-Known Member

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    Anytime fog mod, debadged, drop in k&n, smoked taillights, led inside and out,
    cool thanks. How long did the whole process take you guys? dis and reassemble?
     
  8. Jan 23, 2012 at 8:26 PM
    #28
    Yoytoda

    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    took me about 90 minutes

    I coated all the mounts in penetrating oil and started working on one side. So the one side took longer because by the time i got to the other side all the bolts came right off since the oil had time to soak in
     
  9. Jan 23, 2012 at 11:09 PM
    #29
    tALOHAma

    tALOHAma Well-Known Member

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    Anytime fog mod, debadged, drop in k&n, smoked taillights, led inside and out,
    Pugga, I see that you removed the entire leaf assembly. Is it possible to cut clamps and install aal w/o removing the entire assembly? (I have access to a lift.)
     
  10. Jan 23, 2012 at 11:16 PM
    #30
    Yoytoda

    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    its easier to remove the leaf pack. Ive done it both ways...

    takes longer to do it in place too. Reason being is it s tough to work on. removing it allows freedom to cut and grind. Once the axle is taken loose you just remove the front and rear bolts and the leaf comes right out.

    Working on the truck is tougher because the space between the leaf and axle is limited by the length of the brake lines so putting in the new pack and center bolt is a pain

    Also, this job is better done on the ground with the rear frame on jack stands and a jack under the pumpkin to control axle height. On a lift it will be harder to control the axle height.
     
  11. Jan 24, 2012 at 5:17 AM
    #31
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Pretty much x2 what he said. I didn't remove the leaf pack, I bought a new leaf pack, installed the AAL on the new pack, then did a full leaf pack swap. It was really easy working on everything on a bench in front of me and I didn't have to worry about overspray when painting the leafs or worry about metal shards when grinding. If you do grind under the truck, just be mindful which direction the hot metal pieces are going. You won't want to melt anything like brake lines or electrical wires. The job can certainly be done with everything on the truck, just might take a little longer.
     
  12. Jan 25, 2012 at 8:11 AM
    #32
    HB Taco

    HB Taco Well-Known Member

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    although I'm a DIY'er. I bought my pack at deaver and they charged me $80 to install. A good shop can do it in no time and for $80 why?? just my $.02
     
  13. Jan 25, 2012 at 8:19 AM
    #33
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    The Icon AAL is expensive at $170ish but a typical AAL is between $50 - $75 and then you'd pay an additional $80 to have someone else install it? Personally, I'd rather do the install because it's my truck, I won't cut corners and I'll make sure it's right. I don't make $80/hr normally so for me to take the time to do it is well worth it. Also, when doing an install on your own vehicle, you might notice something else that needs attention that a shop paid for a specific task would just overlook (grease zerks for example). When you work on your truck you get familiar with it and keep track of potential issues. Lastly, I guess it's a pride thing. It feels good to complete a project on your own truck.

    By definition, someone who pays someone else to do things is not a Do It Yourselfer. just sayin..:rolleyes:
     
  14. Jan 25, 2012 at 8:41 AM
    #34
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Bilsteins, OME 881's, 3-leaf AAL, Detroit TruTrac, Tundra brake swap, Michelin LTX AT2, Tranny skidplate, TC skidplate, CBI rear bumper, TG sliders, UltraGauge, PowerTank, Reverse Camera
    Just got done installing the Wheelers (Alcan) 3-leaf AAL. I did not have to
    cut off the old clamps (may remove the rear ones later, to improve articulation).
    There was about an inch of room between the end of the AAL pack and the
    factory clamp. I have attached a photo.
    I did not remove the factory pack, less stuff to undo and wrestle with.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Jan 25, 2012 at 8:45 AM
    #35
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    I wonder if the Icon and Wheelers AALs are the same length. I remember being really close on the front and the rear I didn't feel comfortable leaving the old clamp cause it would hit with very little movement.

    Did you grease the friction pad? If so, you might want to blow the grease out. Dirt and dust sticks to grease, that's why they use dry graphite pads instead. Just my $0.02.
     
  16. Jan 25, 2012 at 8:48 AM
    #36
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I added grease to eliminate squeeks and lessen friction. The pack came
    with pads, but wasn't sure if they were graphite or not.
     
  17. Jan 25, 2012 at 8:50 AM
    #37
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Just keep an eye on them, if they start to squeek, I'd look there first.

    Also just realized you're a first gen which might be why the AAL cleared your leaf pack clamps. I don't know if the leaf packs are the same from 1st Gen to 2nd Gen.
     
  18. Jan 25, 2012 at 9:26 AM
    #38
    HB Taco

    HB Taco Well-Known Member

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    I took a look at mine. It looks like they didn't need to cut the original TSB clamps but on the new pack there is only an extra clamp on the front. The deaver pack is a little shorter I guess. I can tell you it still rides nice on the road but when you hit bigger bumps it's SOOOO much better. I carry about 150-200lbs in the bed all the time (tonneau included) and the overload is removed but I kept them.
    IMG_0156copy_fa3bb8e1114b1699425dbc6da752339f18415100.jpg
    IMG_0155copy_6d52af8cf5f7d2bb41745edb68f0a01016f6bedd.jpg
     
  19. Jan 25, 2012 at 10:40 AM
    #39
    [eric]

    [eric] Well-Known Member

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    What happens if you install the Icon AAL and do not remove the factory clamps around the factory leafs?

    When I installed mine I just left them there. I did not know to remove them. Is there any harm to leaving them or a benefit to cutting them off?
     
  20. Jan 25, 2012 at 12:01 PM
    #40
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Unless the end of the leaf is hitting the clamp or sitting on top of the clamp, you're good to go. Do you have the leaf spring TSB?
     

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