Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1) step by step with pics!

Alright just to help those who may have some confussion on doing your first retrofit... I will start of saying this is way easier than I anticipated! Also there is a lot of confusion between the install of this kit (mini H1) and the FX-R.

The install of the Mini H1 as well as the D2S are for the most part plug and play and very similar with the exception that one uses an H1 size bulb and the other uses a D2S bulb which gives you the ability to use higher end bulbs such as philips... IMO the H1 light output is far better in every way but thats exactly what I said my opinion, so I will let you decide for yourself.

So here goes nothing!

First you need to either need to decide if you are going to buy a second set of headlights or just go for it and do it on your current ones. I will say it was nice being able to take my time which is why I bought a second set.

To remove your headlights use this:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/128360-headlight-removal-pics.html

To take them apart I followed this and also to put back together:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/65226-how-black-head-light-mod.html

Once you have the headlights opened you need to remove the reflector bowl: unscrew the 2 adjustment screws on the back and then I used a flat head screw driver to pop the last piece that holds on, so you are just left with this.




Next is placing the projector in the bowl, you will need to remove the shield that is placed for the halogen bulb. Pry the tabs up and pull out. this is also the hole you will use to run the wires through.

There are a lot of parts included but all you need to place this projector H1 is the large silicone washer, put it through the bowl, then slide on the alignment washer, followed by the locking nut.










Next I recomend test fitting the lights on your truck to make sure the horizontal alignment is where you want it.

After this you will be placing your choosen shroud. I choose the gatling... which I thought stuck out way too much so I cut it down quite a bit by placing the centric ring on and then drawing a line. I did this twice to cut it down to about this.




After this you will need to place the shroud in the centric ring and glue it together, then glue those together to the projecter. Some of the other shrouds such as the mini gatling are screwed in. I ended up using a silcone based glue after talking to matt at trs


This is another members gatling shroud which was not cut just to show you the difference.


Once everything is put in start the process of putting them back together, and sealing them up. At this point you should feel faily comfortable working on them, as you have already gotten the hard steps out of the way.

Before re-sealing mine I cleaned out all the original glue by putting the back half back in the oven for 10 mins at 300 degrees seemed to work really well with a flat head screw driver but take not the stuff gets hot.


Then I added the new glue/sealant from TRS I stretched it as I was going to make it fit in the slot without too much trouble. Note I put plastic wrap on it because it was sitting over night... DONT DO IT! it wont come off and I had to take it all out and re do it lol


Here are some pics of the final project... I hope this help someone a little.

 

Good write up. Just a note: you don't have to remove the reflector bowl unless you are painting it. That is what is so great about the Morimoto projectors.

 

Yep your right not removing them would have made re-aligning them a lot easier!

 

I like the sticker incorporated inside the headlight. Not a fan of the blacked out look though.

 

Looks great man, good job!!

 

Ya I cant remember where I got that idea... the black looks a lot better in person, but to each his own looks good on my truck since its all black anyways... gotta stick with the theme lol

Thank you! Hopefully this will help some people out a little. I know I had tons of unanswered questions before starting this and it wasnt bad at all.

 

good job man! i think u covered some things other people didnt! looks good by tha way

 

Sorry - boneheaded stupid question: The projector retrofit kits still provide both a low beam and a high beam operation, right?

I guess the only reason I ask is because I've read somewhere that HID ballasts can't cope with rapid on/off switching, as is the case when you're driving down a country road with traffic and turning the high beams on and off and on and off and ....

 

2 questions for you...
1. i thought you didnt have to glue the shroud to the projector...
2. would it be worth doing this to my stock headlights with them being a few years old, or buying some aftermarket ones?

good write-up tho, im about to do mine, and am looking for as much info as i can before getting started.

 

Some shrouds do attach to the projectors like the Apollo shrouds that I used but any glue or silicone used is an extra added measure to avoid the shroud popping off. Nothing is worse then getting done and later a shroud falls off while going down some bumpy terrain.

Your OEM headlights are the best ones to retrofit. They are sealed better and built to OEM standards.

 

I know a guy who had the apollo shroud fall of while on a wheeling trip

 

anyone have a link to the part #s used in this retrofit? I PMed the OP but haven't heard back yet...

 

ive just noticed that they have started to oxidize a bit, any way to restore them?

where do you glue or attatch them?

 

I am assuming that you are talking about your headlight lenses oxidizing or "fogging". There are different methods you can use. There are kits you can buy or you can try toothpaste or a rubbing compound. I prefer different grits of sandpaper and wet sand and the polish with a da orbital.

The Apollo shrouds snap on the Morimoto Minis but I put some silicone on the inside before I snapped them on.

 

There is it seems a neverending TRS group buy going on that will get you everything you need minus paint and prep.

 

Great Write Up!!!

 

Dont the oem headlights come coated with something that helps them not oxidize or corrode as fast? how often will i have to treat them?

 

I am sure there is some sort of UV protection. Obviously that protection fails after years of use. I wax the headlights when I wax my cars.

 

you dont really have to remove the reflector bowl even if you are painting...

 

Personally I had better luck with aftermarket. If you have old lights just throw down the $100 for new aftermarket. That way in the end you will have brand NEW lights with the retros.

And some shrouds you screw in (mini gatling)