Dynamat Poll, yes or no? If so how much?

This is another common misconception that is passed around on the internet. Dynamat has VERY little impact on ANY aspect of noise other than changing the resonant frequency of the panels to which it is applied. It will not (by a meaningful amount) reduce tire, exhaust or wind noise. MLV with CCF will help significantly, but you will still get more wind noise than most luxury vehicles because they, by design, do a much better job of sealing windows, windshields, and shaping mirrors to do just that.

 

So much fail on the last page...

Its not the same. It does not work the same. It is not a deadener, and does not do the job. Its a mediocre product for this application, with little savings to get equivalent results.

It is not a great substitute, but it is much better than nothing. DEVL addressed it (quoted later), but you can run it with some results.

Not at all correct.

CLD (the butyl/alu product) goes on the surface, and needs good adhesive to work properly. This is a big reason that peel and seal sucks for this application.

MLV is a heavy vinyl product for blocking sound. Generally floated above a surface, but not mandatory. A heavy, somewhat stiff product is great for this.

Of note to avoid confusion - the blocking layer needs to have mass. The CLD can do its job without adding 20lbs to the door. 25-50% coverage is all that is needed.

You have either never been in a Lexus, or someone with a ratty civic lied to you about what had actually been done. And they were probably not using the cheap peel and seal junk..

 

I used Fatmat on the back wall and the front doors. I did a small area around the rear door speaker mounts for the 6.5s. I installed 6x9s in the front and a 10 inch sub in a box on the back wall of my double cab and the Fatmat worked great. No rattles at all so far and I can tell the difference in the road noise with everything off as well.

 

How much RAAMat would it take to cover the doors and back wall of a DC? I read through all the pages and nobody really gave quantities except for 100 sqft roll of Fatmat which sounds like a LOT of deadener...

 

Also, looking to do this too.....just need to know how much to buy!!!

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/173147-audio-visual-diy-thread.html

 

That link is all well and good, but I don't plan to compete with my stereo...and $480 is overkill for me. By my math he used just under 13 sqft of CLD tiles for the doors and back wall but he used it only sparingly. What I'd like to know is does anybody have an idea of how much RAAMat it takes for a DC? I have kids so I can't exactly have my truck in pieces waiting for the next shipment of deadener to arrive.

Im tempted just to get the 100 sqft roll of Fatmat and call it done....

 

1st - Why would your truck be in pieces for weeks? I can pull a door panel in about 1.5 minutes. Rear seat bins do not have to go back in, if you want to leave them out.

The biggest issue may be the flooring, but I doubt you will do that. If you dont plan on putting in MLV (as in the linked thread), I would not waste my time doing CLD. It doesnt need much help, and the MLV is the reason to go that deep.


2nd. Cost - This can be as high or low as you want. Is this an issue, or do you just not want to spend $500 bucks on deadening?

What are your plans for the truck install, and do you actually plan on putting down MLV? If not, you only need 30-40 tiles for doors and rear wall.

And for the record, I dont plan to compete. Never have before. But that doesnt stop me from getting the best gear I can, for my particular needs. This includes deadening - a mandatory part of my personal installs. Hundreds of bucks that goes away with the car every time, even though the speakers have only done so once...

 

I never said weeks and I can take the door panels off just as quick, but I'd rather not take everything apart more than once just because I ordered too little material. Which brings me back to the original question still yet to be answered...how much as in square feet of the RAAMat is enough to cover the doors and back wall? I'm not doing the CLD I was just referencing it since the link was posted. I may sometime down the line add some MLV but its just not in the budget for now. I am however putting some very nice pieces into my stereo, about $2k worth including a couple hundred for deadening. I plan to at the very least deaden the front doors and rear wall with deadener and CCF. I've done what research I care to do most of which says there is a point of diminishing returns when it comes to sound deadening and to me at least at this point no I do not wish to spend $500 on deadening. I never said I wasn't or couldnt do it just asked for a point of reference so that I can properly plan the install...

 

Tape measure and calculator. I would guess the front doors are 42"x30", and rears are 36x30". So around 30-35sq ft for doors. Rear is about 30 x 72, so probably 15ft. A total of 50ft should be solid for one layer (outer door skin), with 100-150% coverage.

I dont do 100% coverage with a product I dont think is as good, so I have never measured the doors, or rear wall.

Raammat is a type of constrained layer dampening, same function.

CCF is an isolator. If you have rattles from loose panels, it will help. If you are trying to block sound, it is a waste of time and money.

Heck, it you have a bit of time, email Don @ SDS. He will send you a sample of his products to look at. (FWIW, his CCF is some of the best I have ever come across)

That is reasonable. A 25-50% coverage with a quality product, followed by a blocker (mlv) will be a huge benefit, and should be able to do with some looking and work, and careful buying.

I honestly would not mess with CCF unless you have rattles, or are going with MLV.

Otherwise, dampen the doors, seal the holes in the doors, and go.

 

I get it and I appreciate the feedback. If anything I might just save some money for the short term, do some deadening on the door skins and back wall, then come back with MLV as time and money allow. I've spent quite a bit already since I had to start from scratch and because I wanted quality products.

 

When it comes to sound dampening material do yourself a favor and get a quality name brand product. Sorry but Peel and Seal from Lowe's while better than nothing, IS NOT a sound dampening product. Peel and seal is a roofing product. My goal was to make the truck quiet and comfortable inside the cabin with little road,tire, and wind noise. Also I have an AeroTurbine exhaust and that can get pretty annoying after an hour on the road so that was really the main purpose.

 

sub

 

Anybody do their back wall after removing the bins? I'm still driving around with the bins out for more space but nothing on the back wall. I bought a spot-weld-cutter to cut out all the little brackets and tabs but haven't gotten around to doing that yet either (I'm going to have to take the seatbacks out to get to all of them). I was thinking of wrapping the beam in deadener and then carpet, and then building two planks to fit from the center beam to the floor and from the top beam to the center beam.

 

Just do the doors, and if you have any leftover and want to mess with it, the back wall.

 

although I have an AC, I did my back wall. imo, bass hit better, but I only have one layer (should be more solid when I double the layers), going to save up more so I can at least do 2 layers for the entire cab, then finish the doors later.

 

what brand did you use to deaden your AC, i have an AC and want to deaden the doors and back wall, but not sure how much i need.

 

I went with Peel n Seal, it's not bad at all. I had about 1/2 a roll and one full roll and finished the whole back wall along with the side panels before the rear doors. I still have a small portion left (maybe enough to wrap an amp or something) from the 2nd roll.

 

+1 peel and seal.

It's aluminum and mineral tar. That's what automakers put in at the factory, but sometimes without the aluminum part. Aside from a possible different tar formulation there can't be much difference in Dynamat. When the panels and carpet are installed you won't even see that it doesn't have the Dynamat logo.

If you need extreme damping, just use multiple layers.