How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

And another link with part numbers and diagrams
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202119

 

Thanks both of yall!! Awesome help!! Also..... Should I goahead and replace the cv-axle while I'm in there? How will I know if this needs to be replaced or not, or can I even know before getting it apart?

Thanks again!

 

I wouldn't bother with the cv until it starts clicking.

 

sub'd good write up. Noticed my boots are starting to go bad. Looks like "dry rot" around the inner boot, so it might go soon. My truck is 4X4 looks like the op has a pre runner, how much different is my set-up with the 4X4? Is the install the same? Going to replace the entire CV axle, I believe it would be better than just doing the boots. Maybe hang on to the bad one and rebuild it just in case.

 

I saw the spindles. Didn't think you could put spindles on a 4x4. Sorry it's early, don't know what I was thinking.

 

Anyone have a Toyota part # for the cv's? Does it come complete with everything to replace (seals, boots, ect)? Just want to be able to get a new assembly and swap it out. I think I want to put OEM parts back on the truck. I can get deals on toyota parts, I just need the numbers first. I've looked for part numbers but I cannot find anything for the whole assembly. I feel like i took stupid pills this morning instead of vitamins and B-12.

 

You, probably need some ginkobiloba and riboflavin in your diet. And prerunners are 2wd<4wd. I didn't like it teh 2wd, too much herp if you don't get those part numbers, I'll look for them later today

 

Is it possible to cut the out cv boot clamps silde the boot back repack slide boot back and reclamp. My outer small clamp slid down the shaft and I lost some grease. I wondered if I can just slide the boot back repack then replace the clamps?

 

Sure can, its not going to hurt anything

 

My passenger side wheel bearing needs to be replaced. The tire rocks back and forth. Will this work or does anyone recommend a different brand?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...als_1441490_-1&keyword=wheel+bearings+&+seals

 

hey folks. i just replaced both front axels and noticed that the driver side has play when I grab it by the differential side, i can pull it maybe 2" away and toward the diff, but the passenger side is solid. is this normal or did i not pound it enough?

 

Yessir it will

 

2"

 

I figure out folks may want to know this.
tested yesterday my theory that wheel bearings in Toyota trucks can be re tightened to get them to sit better. So while doing brake job one of the things I did i had tightened wheel bearings and low and behold truck went from squeamish to super tight. I would say done every 30 000 miles would prolong wheel bearings especially for those driving on larger then factory wheels.

 

Good info, how bout some torque specs? And what kind of beer was involved?

 

On a prerunner, it should be the same as when originally torqued, 200 ftlb.

The 4wd is 173 ftlb. Those would be the bearing preload settings.

PK

 

Subscribed.

 

I am trying to diagnose something that has just started within the last few days. My truck has 5100's set at 2.5" with stock springs, LR UCA's, and I have done the needle bearing bushing swap in the front diff. I also have hawk brake pads and had the rotors resurfaced. Now to the dilemma.

I was driving home from work on thursday. I had been driving for about 45 minutes or so. I come to a stop sign and I hear thing rumbling noise. So I turn the radio off and when I come to the next stop, there it is again. It is coming from the front end, it sounds like when you are going down the highway about 70mph and drive over the rumble strips, that vvvvvvv noise, it only comes in at the last 10mph before a stop. It continued to do it at every stop whether strait, turned, up hill or down hill. Tires are not rubbing, they're stock. I jacked the truck on both sides to spin the wheels. The passenger spun pretty freely with only the sound of a little brake pad drag. The driver side was harder to turn, had the same brake drag sound plus another metal on metal sound. So I shook both wheels, no movement or play in either. So grabbed my fiances son who is going to auto school to see if he could be of help, and test drove it. By this time the truck had cooled down over night. It did not make any noises at stops at all, so I drove it for about 5 minutes to warm things up some. Did everything to get it to make noise again and nothing, until I was coming to a stop just before my house, and it made the noise ever so slightly. So it needs to be heated up to make this noise. Also I noticed that when 4wd is engaged, the truck wants to pull to the right. So just to rule out the brakes, I completely removed the brakes and spun the driver side hub. It had more resistance to spin than the passenger side with the brakes still on, and had a metal on metal noise slightly louder than the brake drag. The hub still did not have any movement. I am wondering if it is a wheel bearing about to go bad, or if it is the outer CV. I turned the wheel hard left and hard right and spun it and the CV didn't pop. Any thoughts?

 

^^^^

Did you find out what the problem is? I would say bad wheel bearing, sometimes they can fail in ways that dont cause the "play".

 

didnt i just see this someplace else ^^^^