Rear shock Bilstein Help!

(I posted this on TTORA too)

I received my Bilstein 5100 rear shocks today. The 3/4" bushings are included.

However, it didn't contain the other bushings/washers/nuts for the new shocks. Do I need to contact Toytec or do I use the ones that already support the shocks I'm replacing?

Also, when putting in the bushings into the shock... do I put the skinny end of it into the mount first? It fits but falls out easily..?



Thanks,
Scott

 

I think you use the hardware on the stock shocks. not sure though. someone will chime in shortly that knows for a fact.

 

Bump for help... appreciate the response

 

Have to check again but IIRC, my rear 5100s came with a bag of bushings/washers/nut from DSM. Have to look again to be sure.

 

oops. i was wrong. sorry to mislead you.

 

I attempted to install the right side shocks earlier. Both nuts were very seized up... I sprayed them with WD40 and worked and worked.

I stripped the bottom bolt off with the assistance of a pipe on the end of the wrench. I replaced the bolt with one I had laying around that fit.

I couldnt get the top nut off to save my life... I attempted with an impact wrench but that didnt seem to help. So now I just bolted the factory shock back up and try tomorrow since Ive got to head to work...

Any ideas how to loosen the top bolt? What nuts are used for the shocks?


Thanks

 

Just soak the nut in mystery oil or some penetrating oil that creeps into the metal. Let it soak for a half hour or so, and then you should be good to go! Thats what I use on the rusted nuts and bolts at my work.

 

I don't know why yours are on there so tight. If an impact wrench (assuming its a good one) wasn't helping then i don't know what will. Try two people. I know it sounds stupid but 2 people is always better than one. When i was installing my front suspsension, i couldn't get the damn pins out to replace them with longer ones for a spacer. I beat on them with a hammer for about 5 minutes....nothing....passed them over to a guy helping me. They popped out first try.

If you start to get sore/tired/whatever during an install, its always good to have a helper around.



Edit....if you are using a torch, stay away from the break lines.....I know somebody who was putting a lift on a truck, had to use a propane torch to pull something off, hit a break line....and the rest went up in flames.

 

read this thread, i had the same problem
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/29684-removing-top-nut.html

 

thanks for all the replies... i'll see what i can do... it will have to wait.:-(.. i gotta work this weekend and then off to the beach

 

I have the 2000 model. My shocks are mounted differently.

It's not the nut spinning... I can't get it to move at all...

I guess it won't budge because these are the original shocks I had on the truck. I'll try some penetrating oil, and some friends to help... but if that doesnt work, I guess I'll have to take it somewhere and get them to do it

 

try a cheater bar too. like a 3 ft one.

 

oh ok, my bad for not seeing you were 1st gen. Yea i would try a big ass cheater bar or a cutting torch

 

I used a cheater bar with the lower bolt and stripped the head right off... I managed to unscrew the rest of it with a flathead.

There isnt enough room up top to use the cheater bar I have.. I went to Autozone this morning and got some PB Penetrating oil and well see how that works.... I'll keep yall updated when I try it.

If I remember reading correctly... isn't one side more difficult?

 

Just put my rear 5100's on, and WOW what a difference Install was cake and took me about 30min. thanks to all who told to get rid of my crappy lesschwab shocks.

 

Well, I took some PB to them this morning and finally got them un-bolted and switched out.

However...

Further inspecting them, both shock part numbers end with D560-TO. Is that a problem? I did get the left side to mount up correctly even though it is a longer shock and made for the passenger side lol.

It is on a 2000 model.