PLX gauge install

So I just got my plx gauges in the mail today and was looking for suggestions on where to get my power from and where to mount the modules in the engine compartment.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/83677-installed-plx-gauge.html

 

Casey I saw that install but I am installing afr and boost gauges and would like to just run wires from the engine compartment to the gauge. If I do it the other way I will have to run wires both ways...from the cab to the engine compartment and vice virsa.

 

ahh ok, just searched and found that so figured id throw it your way. I dont really have an answer, but heres another bump for ya to get some answer.

 

Is anyone running plx gauges with afr or boost?

 

I would also appreciate some info on this. My concern is where to locate the sensor modules. I will be doing an afr gauge and and dm6 obdii. 2 gauges 2 modules.

 

It was suggested for me to put my modules under my seat. I was thinking in the engine compartment but that is probably not a good idea because of moisture and dust. So I am in progress of installing under the drivers seat. I was using an add a fuse to power them but I could smell something funny so I have to figure another route. Hate to burn anything up. I might just run it strait to the battery and add a switch...but I hate to do that cause if I forget my battery my go dead.
Any ideas or suggestions?

 

I think add a fuse would be the way to go. One thing I'm considering is having them being hooked up to the driving light circuit, so that I would be able to have them on only when I wanted. I have a pretty short commute to work and I have a feeling these gauges have a somewhat lengthy boot time (if they are anything like my Kenwood headunit). Maybe not want to power then up just to power then down all the time. Maybe this will work for you as I believe that circuit gets cut when the key is removed. My driving lights do for sure

 

Hey fellas,

So I installed my gauges (dm-6, dm-100, obd II module, A/F module, Boost module), completely, only to find that mine were DOA. I'll do a real write up when I re-install this weekend. Here's the quick version.

I ran my modules under the driver's seat. The reason is that the only wires that went through my firewall and into the engine bay were the wideband sensor and 1/8" vacuum line. I pulled power from all 3 modules by using an add-a-circuit on the 15 amp ignition circuit. I put a 15 amp fuse on the new circuit since I was running 3 modules (5 amps each). I ran the power wires through the center console and under the seat. My ground was done under the seat as well. I ran my grey wire on my A/F (the narrow-band feed) to the ecu through the center console, under the passenger side carpet, and down the passenger trim to splice into the ECU. If you need the pinout for the 2012, let me know and I'll get it to you. I'll post up once I do my real write up.

 

Pic please of your add a circut config

 

What would be the benifit of running the wire to the ECU?

 

See pics:

View at the fuse box, notice the add a circuit in the top left


Add a circuit removed.


The grey wire gives a narrowband feed from the new sensor to the ECU, which means the ECU still functions like normal, no check engine codes or strange running conditions.

My gauges came back from PLX today. The following was done:

Reflash of the DM-100 module firmware
Replacement of DM-6 Screen
Replacement of Vac-Boost Module
A/F module: No change

I'll be installing them again this weekend. I'll make sure I document it and I'll do a write-up for you guys.

 

Thanks for the pics. Quick question...did you just splice all three power wires onto the add a circuit without individual 5 amp fuses?

 

I see why you needed to do the wire to the ecu, I have dtlt headers witch have an extra bung in each long tube for wideband, so I don't need to run the wire to my ecu...I was confunsed on that one(happens often)
Thanks for the help, I will wire it all up tonight , tommorw off to get a dyno.

 

Yes, I spliced the three together without individual fuses, probably not the most correct way to do it, but 3 separate fuse holders would be a pain in the ass.

I read somewhere that you could power up to 3 modules off the same power source. Just an FYI.

 

Thanks Dave,
Install tonight, just hope my boost gauge not working was a error on my configuration.

 

Me too man, mine was replaced due to bad readings being sent. Even if it powers up, make sure that the numbers it displays are realistic, I want to say mine was showing like 14 psi vacuum at idle or something. Good luck! I'm watching your thread for the new dyno numbers.

 

So I got it all in last night. Looks like my configuration was wrong before. This time it worked just fine! Thanks Dave for all your help. On a side note I ended up having to run a ground to my battery because I couldn't get it to ground properly in the cab. I would be driving and they would lose the connection with the modules... all better now.

 

I was able to ground mine to the cab, but I sanded a patch down to bare metal and secured with a sheet metal screw and washer.

I started my install, but I need to clean it up next time I go out to my storage unit. Will post info.

Pro-tip: if you have to run the A/F sensor cable through the firewall, remove the pins from the plastic connector, it makes running that cable 100x easier. I did it with a couple of bent staples.

 

Dave,
Post up some pics!