Florida B.S. Thread

Primarily congratulatory (as it should be), with a few whiners (unjustified).

 

Morning Fla.....

 

mornin jimmy, since i can see ur post, i'm glad i'm not on ur ignore list

 

As the other guys informed me, if he ignores you, you can still see his posts, just not the other way around. It's very stupid if you ask me. It should block all of them like it does on FB.

 

Yes too bad on J , I lost a tech & he lost my $,,, Oh well life goes on,,,, Jim

 

those crazy kids, j and j, what funny guys

mbrp exhaust on the way: eta tuesday! i'm gonna feel like a baller!

 

yeah. glock are very reliable guns! dad told me that the stainless steel (like 1911’s) have to be very well oiled and stuff. idk why or anything but thats what dad told me. Glocks are suppose to be pretty dry.



the main reason i want to stay with a Glock for my carry gun, is because i’m so familiar with them. so my muscle memory is very good with them, so i think that will help a lot if i really had to use it.(pray i don’t ever have to use it)

 

So I think i'm going the winch route. now the question is 9k, 10k, or 12k.......

9k and 10k are only $20 apart, so i think the 9k is out. price difference is a bigger jump between the 10k and 12k. the two are actually the same winch/gear ratio/etc, the 12k just has a larger motor in it. so the question is, is 0.4 extra horsepower worth $70?

 

10K! I don't really know the specifics on winching and weight, but based on those numbers i'd go with that

 

Another vote for 10k here.

Fink

 

Get the cheaper one that way you can get new coils for the front. Those things are tired!

 

winch power 101 time

there are two big reasons to go with a winch rated at larger than what you will pull.

1) even if the winch can make the heavy pull, while the winch can handle it, you end up creating a lit more heat than a lighter pull. over time, heat will wear on the motor and potentially the other electronics in the winch. heat is also bad for synthetic line. winches manufactured for synthetic line have the clutch located outside of the drum that the line spools on, so that the drum doesn't heat up and doesn't melt the line. even then, you get some residual heat thransfer to the drum, through conduction. the same happens if you have to work the motor near the max. the motor is external to the line, but heat will still bleed over into the spool.

2) winch ratings are for when you have 1 wrap of line on the drum. the more layers of winch line you have on the drum, the larger the resisting moment arm is, which in turn, lowers the pulling capacity (and increases spool speed when unloaded).

below are charts for the 9k and 10k. the 9k gets dangerously close to the vehicle gross weight when the drum has 4 wraps on it. still enough power, but then issue number 1 comes into play.

[FONT=Arial,Bold][FONT=Arial,Bold][FONT=Arial,Bold]10k winch[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Bold][FONT=Arial,Bold][FONT=Arial,Bold]wraps------ line pull (lbs)[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Bold][FONT=Arial,Bold]1 -------------10000[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Bold]2 -------------8000[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Bold]3 -------------6670[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Bold]4 -------------5720[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Bold]9k winch[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Bold]wraps ------line pull (lbs)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Bold]1 -------------9000[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Bold]2 -------------7300[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Bold]3 -------------6150[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Bold]4 -------------5400[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]

yeah they're worn out. rear's even worse

gonna wait untill i get a DD though so i can put some 700lb springs on them and revalve them at the same time. another turn on the spring collar will have to do for now

luckily, the winch and line are only 63 lbs.

 

Go for the winch with the blond hair & big tit's. Thats what I would do

 

I wanted to get my girlfriend more into offroading, so i took here along to the yearly off road training course I attend. about 5 minutes into the winch section of the class, she leans over to me and asks, "am I missing something, or is he really saying there's some whore out there that will help us if we get stuck?"

She's really not that dumb, I swear

 

I want a toolbox for my truck.

Should I just go with the common angled UWS box that fits both short and long beds or should I try to find one that has straight sides and provides slightly more storage?

Seems the latter is hard to find and I have yet to see anybody with a long bed that has one.

Fink

 

I have seen plenty of tool boxes that will fit the long bed. Personally I would not bother with the angles one for your truck since you don't have wheel wells in the way having the long bed.

 

That's what I'm saying, but I have yet to see any of the standard straight-sided UWS boxes in long beds - at least pictures and part numbers. I also want the "low-profile" box so it doesn't stick up above the rear window too much. I'm a picky son of a bitch.

There are a ton of them online, I just don't know which ones will work. I'm looking to order on Amazon since I get free two-day shipping, but it's hard to order something that is $400+ and not know that it's going to work, risking me having to ship it back on my dime.

Might need to take a trip to Tractor Supply.

Fink

 

You still need an angled one for a long bed.

 

That's what I thought as I have yet to see a Tacoma, short or long bed with a standard-size truck box.

Thanks for confirming!

Fink

 

Chris,

Post number 8.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/156913-tool-box-truck-bed.html

you could even block it up to sit flush with the bed caps.
Or if you are really agains drilling into the bed, I could build you a set of mounts that would use the bed bolt locations and the factory bed rails that the cleats mount to, to raise it up.