Adjusting valves on 2.7

Does this require shims? Or adjusting screws?

If anyone knows any info on this I would appreciate greatly.

 

Thanks!

 

While the 2.7 is a dohc motor, the manual says the valves are hydraulic and self-adjusting. So under normal circumstances, they will not need servicing for the life of the motor (same reason why it has a cam chain and not a belt: low maintenance).

 

I remember reading it in the service specifications in my owner's manual somewhere...

Here's a thread on the topic:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...eckups-needed-2tr-fe-can-someone-confirm.html

Plus, when searching www.toyotapartsandservice.com for Tacoma 60k and 120k service, this is what comes (up among other things of course):
"Inspect the following: Engine valve clearance (except Tacoma with 2TR-FE)"

 

Hmmm, I did not see anything about the year of his truck or the motor being a 3rz. And I keep forgetting there was a 2.7 before the 2tr. Anyway, looks like this thread's info on the 2.7 will help those with the 2tr and the 3rz! Thx Chris

 

open her up and have a look guys... see anything you can adjust here? I don't... see waldo anywhere?

 

The 2TR-FE 2.7 L 4-cylinder used in the 2005 and newer Tacoma has automatic valve lash adjustment. I don't know about the older 2.7, I do know the 2.4 L used shims.

 

Well since i have my motor apart i decided to look for a shim clearance procedure... Googled 2rz/3rz lifters; and voila

http://www.yotatech.com/f128/5vz-fe-3rz-fe-2rz-fe-valve-adjustment-tech-226997/

 

I am going to attempt the valve check on my 3rz 2.7 on my 2000 tacoma. What els should I do in there once I am in there ?

 

So is the exhaust clearence best to put at 015 as they say on that write up ?

 

I am setting them all at 012 in case anyone wants to know lol my michanic ordered the exhaust valves and they were $20 each so in the end its about a $450 job

 

First off your not supposed to turn the motor by the cam, especially not with a crescent. Do it right and turn it with a 19 on the crank. Second, the adjustment is the shims. Exact same setup as motocross bikes. No lifters, no pushrods, no adjustable rockers like on Hondas. Just cam, bucket, shim, valve

 

Best to have it at .014-.015

 

Yep the older one uses shims, how does the new one work to adjust automatically without pushrods or lifters?

 

This is an old thread but from what i understand the valve checking/adjusting process is very time consuming and you better know what you are doing. I asked my local dealer (who is very honest by the way) how much it would cost to get in there and check and adjust if it needed it. He said right around $1000. After reading what you have to do to check them and then actually adjust them I'd rather pay the $1000! Sure, I could do it but I don't want to spend the time stumbling through an entire weekend trying to figure it out while I double and triple check what I just did because I've never done it before. If this wasn't my only vehicle it would be a different story. In any case, my 3RZ is getting close to 150,000 miles and somewhere around that mileage I'll have them do it. These engines wear "loose". In other words as the valve train wears out they start to tick. My local dealer says that Toyota told them if it's not ticking their is nothing wrong. I have a friend who was a Toyota mechanic at a big dealership for 25 years that said the same thing. However, I have heard of some of these engines developing a "tight" valve which ends up costing a whole lot of money if that happens. Much more than they charge for a valve check/adjustment. My dealer said it could happen but he's never seen it. Hence, my having the valves checked and adjusted around 150,000 miles. I trust this dealer since they actually talked me out of buy certain parts when I wanted them. They told me they were good for the life of the vehicle. I was impressed. What stealership does that?