It's almost time, countdown to the stereo install!

If everything plans out my install will happen saturday!

2012 toyota tacoma 4x4 SR5 access cab

Stereo upgrades:

Alpine

PDX-V9 5 channel amp
PXE-H660 Audio processor
SPR-60C 6.5 type R components
Type R 10" subwoofer
Speaker adapters for woofers and tweeters.

10" sub will go in the custom sub enclosure, which will be mounted between the two back seats. (Still in finishing stages)

Still need to pick up amp kit.

Will be posting pictures of the install and look forward to your input in every stage of the install

 

I always love this part - the anticipation... Looks like a nice setup.

P.S. what made you decide to keep the original head unit and go the route of the Audio Processor?

 

Update: Plans didn't work out, so the install will have to wait, hopefully next weekend. I did pick up the vinyl for the sub box and was able to complete it which i'm very excited about, i like the way it turned out.

CrazyDiamond - I decided to go with the audio processor because i wanted to keep the factory look and all the functions of the factory radio. I got the processor off of ebay for $100, i have heard good and bad reviews on the unit but for the price i paid i will find out myself.

 

So after a long day of installing and pulling my hair out the system is finally installed. Everything went according to plan, ran the wire,mounted the processor under the drivers seat, mounted the amp under passenger seat, installed speakers,ran power and speaker wires, hook everything up.

The tuning for the processor was simple and straight forward, took 2 times to get it set up properly, still not perfect but still playing around with settings.

Few problems

1) I noticed that my speakers now have white noise coming from them when the stereo is on, very faint when playing music, but you put the volume to 0 and you notice it. I have ground both the processor and the amp to the seat frame bolts. Could this noise be a result of a bad ground? any suggestion on how to fix it.


2) i mounted the amp under the passenger seat but it hits on a bar located under the seat, i believe i can flip that bar around, but am unsure on how to do it and cannot find the post regarding it. anyone know of where this post is located.

3) I still have to try tuning the processor a couple more times, once i get the amp dialed in. It sounds good when using cd/ipod but seems to have a hard time with the signals from fm, i believe it's becuase the signal is crappy to begin with.

This is my first time tuning a amp, so far it's proving to be a big learning curve looking at my set up what settings (hp filter,crossover, subsonic and lp filter) would you recommend?

 

Nice set up, I would like to try that someday....

 

I couldn't tell in the picture, but is the metal where you placed the ground sanded to bare metal? I went and grounded straight to the frame and I have no noticable white noise.

I also ran the wires separately, power down one side of the truck and signal down the other. The subject has been debated to death, but I figured why take a chance.

 

That ground doesn't look like bare metal to me. If that is the location you plan to use I would sand under the seat mount to expose bare metal and mount the ground under the seat mount.
The passenger seat bar can be unscrewed, turned, then bolted back into place. I just did it and took pictures. I'll post a quick DIY thing on it when I have time. With the right tool it's pretty easy.

 

X3 on the bare metal ground it can make a world of difference.

 

Those RCA cables look pretty cheap as well. You may want to get some shielded RCA cables for the amp...

X4 - the painted bolt and seat slider caught my eye immediately as well.

I've seen guys do this with on their engines. They powder coat their alternator brackets, they bolt the ground strap back to the pretty painted bracket (s.b. Chevy) and can't figure out why the battery won't charge.

 

Thanks for all the responses,

Ya i was unsure about the ground, i sanded down the bolt to bare metal and added a washer thinking that since it's bolted into the body it would be enough to ground. Are the threaded holes in the body also painted? Since i want to move the passenger bracket it would be a good time to mount the ground under the seat rail and sand the hell out of it.

ya the rcas that came with the amp kit where way to long, so i used some random 3ft ones i had lying around, i figured this might be part of the issue so i picked up some monster cable rcas today after work that i'm going to switch out.

Highspeed - that would be great if you could post a thread on moving that bar it would be very helpful.

 

So got to work on the truck alittle bit tonight, i switched out the rca cables and what a difference, the sound is much cleaner and the bass hits nice and hard.

Took out the seat slider bolt, took a wire brush to it and cleaned it up to bare metal. Also used the wire brush on the inside of the bolt hole. No success sound is still there, i'll have to wait until i can get the seat removed to mount the ground under it. But hell it was worth a shot.

I have a remote bass knob (

$40 Alpine rux-knob Remote Bass Level Control Knob for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6

Alpine rux-knob) that i would like to install in one of the blank covers under the climate controls. Does anyone know how to remove these blanks and how to mount the remote knob to it?

 

It's the final countdown. lol
http://youtu.be/9jK-NcRmVcw

 

Highspeed- have you had anytime to work on the quick DIY for moving the passenger seat bar?

 

Link to seat mod: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...your-passenger-seat-its-easy.html#post6905809

 

So I finally got some time to tweak the system, i have elimitated about 90% of the white noise i was hearing. It was being caused by a ground loop created by having the amp and processer being grounded in two different spots. I still have to remove the seat to flip the bar (thanks Highspeed for your post), than i'll ground it directly to the body to see if i can get rid of the rest of the noise if possible.

Now that i've solved that problem for the most part, I have an new one!

My system has a turn on/off pop, I have tried adjusting the amp to see if that was the problem but it's not. Any ideas?

my system is connected as follows ACC wire(stock hu)>REM in(processor)>REM out(processor to amp).

 

I hooked up my amps with a relay. Not this exact configuration, I sampled this picture as a reference for you. No "popping on and off" and no loss of power if you are changing decks or playing around with the wiring on that end.

 

Thanks for the diagram, i really have no experience with relays, other than replacing the one on my snowmobile when it screws up. What type of relay would i have to get? Do i install it between the factory head unit and the processor or between the processor and amp? How does this stop the turn on/off pop?

Again no experience with relays, your help is much appreciated.

 

The diagram is self explanitory. Look up Bosch relays. With the relay amp remote power is self sustained. Wired separate from the HU and processor turn on. Hence, no pop.

I still cannot believe the following site is not a sticky in this Forum, but go here http://www.bcae1.com/ It has everything. I mean EVERYTHING you need to know.