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DIY LCA Bushing Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4)

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by XXXX, Sep 7, 2011.

  1. May 31, 2013 at 5:39 AM
    #101
    XXXX

    XXXX [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I know plenty of mall crawlers that have never seen dirt and had it happen to them. Heck as long as your not muddin the off road prob helps due to the bushings getting fully articulated more often. My old roomates X-runner had them go a couple years ago, but he paid Toyota to do it...LOL
     
  2. May 31, 2013 at 5:42 AM
    #102
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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  3. May 31, 2013 at 6:15 AM
    #103
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    Ebay says it will work on both, but the Toyota part numbers are different. Any clue as to what is different about them, other than p/n?

    Whitelines website says
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2013
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  4. May 31, 2013 at 6:22 AM
    #104
    ruggedT

    ruggedT The Sticker Guy

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    Those whiteline ones say they will fit both the fj and tacoma. Im not sure whats up with the difference. I cam really close to trying those poly bushings
     
  5. May 31, 2013 at 6:24 AM
    #105
    XXXX

    XXXX [OP] Well-Known Member

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    why do you keep asking about FJ/Tacoma? :confused:

    Just get the ones for the Tacoma and be done with it.

    For many years they were the same exact parts and they still might be they just give them a different part number to track sales :notsure:
     
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  6. May 31, 2013 at 6:46 AM
    #106
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    Show me one that the manufacturer says will work on 2nd gen Tacomas.

    Ebay says they will, not Whiteline.
     
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  7. May 31, 2013 at 7:07 AM
    #107
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    A slew of pricey stuff my wife hates me for.
    If that's the final solution I'm all for it. Any day we can stop worrying about those damned cams and bushings is a good day in my book.
     
  8. Jul 3, 2013 at 11:05 PM
    #108
    mo13

    mo13 Well-Known Member

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    Whats up guys long story short i got total chaos alignment tabs welded on my truck and the shop told me that they couldnt do a alignment because the bushings are siezed and they just cant do a alignment on it. But they were alble to pull the alignment cam bolt out in order to weld the tabs on and what not so with that being said can the bushing still be siezed in there avoiding aligment they said the bushings are in good condtion just minor corrsion. thanks for the help guys and i know they didnt cut any bolt or anything like that because i have the truck now and all tabs are welded on and of course the alignment is off due to them pulling out all the alignment cam bolts.
     
  9. Jul 4, 2013 at 12:14 AM
    #109
    mo13

    mo13 Well-Known Member

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    Yea that's what I was thinking its a decent shop from what I've heard about it ima crawl under it tomorrow and see if I can adjust the alignment cabs if I can ima take it to another alignment shop and see if they can do it. The info from what the shop told me just doesn't make any sense. Appreciate the help
     
  10. Jul 4, 2013 at 1:24 AM
    #110
    Texoma

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    The front alignment cams can be completely taken off without having to remove the barrel that is inside the bushing sleeve. So they may have been able to weld the tabs on, but once they re assembled it all, couldn't turn the front assemblies to adjust the alignment. The rears are different, if they were seized, they wouldn't have been able to weld new tabs on. So your culprit(s) are the front cams.
     
  11. Jul 4, 2013 at 10:04 AM
    #111
    mo13

    mo13 Well-Known Member

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    What would y'all say is the easiest way to check to see if that cam alinment is siezed in the bushing? Just crawl under there with the front wheels off loosen the bolt and see if I could move the cam alignment bolt? Because if I'm able to move that bolt I should be able to get an alignment right? Or is the actual lca bushing the thing that seizes to the mount and prevents the lca from moving?
     
  12. Jul 4, 2013 at 12:18 PM
    #112
    mo13

    mo13 Well-Known Member

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    so just checked out the bushings and i guess they somehow managed to snap the alignment cam in two pieces like the shaft part and the round part with all the dashes on the parts diagram its #48409D is in two pieces. im able to pull the bolt out of both driver and passenger sides and the round part of the front alignment cam just spins freely on the bolt when loose. so im guessing ill be changing out the front bushings on both arms. Im able to freely move the rear adjustment of both lca. so do yall think since i have the lca out i should just do both front and rear. thats what im kinds leaning towards right now.
     
  13. Jul 4, 2013 at 8:06 PM
    #113
    Texoma

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    If there are any good parts, keep them and don't replace them. Just lube them up with a good heavy grease and you won't have to worry bout them seizing.

    Take the trip to this guys house ^^^^^^ He'll bust out the whole garage on them bushings
     
  14. Jul 5, 2013 at 10:28 AM
    #114
    mo13

    mo13 Well-Known Member

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    Yea from the looks of it the rear bushings are good still able to move em around pretty easy. havent pulled the whole lca out yet because working on a truck is frowned on in my apartments but from what the mechanics at the shop that welded on my guessets said the bushing look good all around just a little of corrosion but that expected. So I may order all the parts and if its a real pita just swap the fronts out. Should the front move around as easily as the rears? I can movthe fronts around but it seems like the back of the front seems to be stuck and moves back to the same place like the bushing is forcing it back into one spot. Does that adjustment cam sleeve have to move freely in the bushing? I would think the arm could just slide left to right in that oblong hole and you would still be able to get an adjustment. Anyways ima just change em out. Have had my suspension and new wheels and tires on for a month now and truck has been filled with problem after problem next issue after I get this fixed is gonna be the vibes I get when driving that'll be a fun one.
     
  15. Jul 6, 2013 at 4:45 AM
    #115
    mo13

    mo13 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the help man.
     
  16. Sep 1, 2013 at 11:57 AM
    #116
    Drunknsloth

    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

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    I seem to be having the same problem as most of the people above. Now I know this is a common problem, especially since I live in Utah and they salt the roads like none other.

    So a while back I took it to Firestone to have an alignment, they told me I had a camber bolt that was seized but the alignment wasn't too bad so I could just get the bolt replaced on my next alignment. So this time before I took it in for an alignment I checked all the bolts because I wanted to make sure for myself that one of the bolts were in fact seized. All of them turned fine so I took it to Firestone again and told them I fixed it so it should be fine this time. After the alignment they told me the bolt was still seized so I told them to just leave it. This time I removed both the plate/nut and the bolt shown in the picture below from XXXX

    [​IMG]

    I tried moving the sleeve on my front passenger side and I couldn't (I didn't have a 26mm socket so I tried hammering it from the back to see if I could get it to slide forward but I couldn't.)

    Now the interesting part:
    I removed the bolt and plate/nut while the truck was on jack stands. I then lowered the truck without the bolt and plate in the camber assembly and as I predicted the camber sleeve turned with the LCA as I could see from the plate attached to the sleeve.
    I then lifted the truck again, but the bolt and plate back in and torqued it down to 100lbs and dropped the truck. This time the camber sleeve did not turn with the LCA.

    Now I'm not sure if the sleeve or the bushing was the one turning when I did not have the bolt and plate on but I still find it interesting that Firestone couldn't align it. I'm planning on getting a 26mm socket and trying to turn it with that but I want to know what you guys think. I've been really busy lately and I don't want to spend the time to do all that again if there's no point.
     
  17. Sep 2, 2013 at 5:57 AM
    #117
    Drunknsloth

    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

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  18. Sep 10, 2013 at 4:10 PM
    #118
    XXXX

    XXXX [OP] Well-Known Member

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    someone buy them and try them already dam it :D

    everyones getting those crappy ones you have to butcher your old ones why the heck is no one trying the whiting? Buy them - if they don't fit return them. SOoooooooooooooooooo much easier and better than reusing rusted POS liners IMO. Mine were rusted to pieces.


    How did that press work out for you? I had a real press and couldn't get them out.

    My cutting method only take 5-10 minutes. No way would all thread of saved me if my press was bending.
     
  19. Sep 11, 2013 at 2:56 PM
    #119
    splitbolt

    splitbolt Voodoo Witch Doctor

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    Mine couldn't wait any longer and I can't afford to have my truck tore apart for 2 weeks because Whitelines may or may not fit.
    If it was a sure thing, I would have went with poly.

    Supposedly, Energy Suspension is working on it.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/273795-free-energy-suspension-parts.html

    I did notice, they now have steering rack and frame/body mount bushings.
    http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Toyota+Tacoma+2WD+Prerunner+2007
     
  20. Sep 17, 2013 at 2:20 AM
    #120
    Drunknsloth

    Drunknsloth Indffrnce will be the fall of manknd but who cares

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    I haven't tried it yet... I've been too busy with work and school... I'm currently driving with my steering wheel tilted slightly left when I'm going strait but my tires are already pretty bald so I'm not worrying about it :eek:

    I might call whiteline one of these days and see what they say...
     
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