MPG Mods

My Toyota dealership (Street Toyota, Amarillo, Tx.) Recommended
an EFI service ($150). What does that exactly entail, and why is it
that costly? Also, any other way I can maximize fuel economy other
than keeping my truck properly maintained, tire pressure up, etc?
I have a K&N filter in my 07 Tacoma which helps some.

 

I get 31 mpg on my 2012 2.7 base
I use M1 0w20 to which I add Molybdenum.
I have a Frantz bypass filter and I change the sh!tpaper in it at 2500 and change my oil at 5K. I also use a Napa gold oil filter (it's twice the size of stock Toyo filter) which is relocated to the firewall passenger side for clean no mess filter change.
My totally oil capacity is 7 qts.

I burn virgin (non-ethanol) 89 octane Top Tier fuel to which I add 3 oz / fill Techron and 1 0z TCw3 oil/ 5 gallon gasoline.

My goal is to get 35mpg.

If you leave your filter in and just pull the cover off to the side you just need to drill the rivet off one corner then you can just get a hold of the corner of the filter and rip it off. blow away any debris. boom ur done.

 

Clean your MAF
clean throttle body
check your TPS
Check thermostat
Use lighter wt oil 0w20 and moly.
start adding TCw3 oil to your fuel at 1 oz:5 gall ratio
If you can't find non-ethanol gas then only use Chevron, Texaco or shell.
Use lower octane fuel 87
Use some Techron (whole bottle on half tank)
Service your tranny replace all fluid with syn ws-T-IV
get stock high mileage tires and max inflate
Is a check engine light on? (O2 sensor)

Get rid of any bullshit like racks, brush guard and any excess weight.
If it is lifted, un-lift it.

Drive smart.
I get 31 mpg and I'm going for 35.

 

Join the fun on this thread.

35mpg is possible, I've had tanks as high as 37.7. I'm jelly you can get E0, E-10 is all I can get and it sucks.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/4-cylinder/174620-4-bangin-fuel-sippin-full-tank-challenge.html

 

Oops!
I'm an idiot, I just saw that it is an 88. some of my post does not apply.

 

Get a softopper. They weigh less than camper shells.

 

It is one of most profitable services for them. They are trying to soak your wallet. That is why they are sometimes referred to as %$&(#$%^&. Go read the 4 banger fuel sipping challenge thread in the 4 cyl section. Lots of good advice int that thread.

 

sounds like the timing may have jumped

 

any advice for a 2013?

 

I know this is my first post, and I'm an unknown entity here, but bear with me please. This is not a sales pitch either, I swear. I have a '96 Tacoma 4x4 v6. Agreeing that a 4x4 will never get comparable MPG to a 2WD, I've noticed most people mention synthetics, but not changing ALL the lube fluids with synthetics. I want to say, if you go synthetic, go all the way and put synthetics in your differentials, transfer cases, and trans. Each component adds a little bit, but in total, the effects add up. 4x4s will see the greatest gains from synthetics due to the additional front differential and transfer case (friction/resistance). I bet you will gain 5-10% if you own a 4x4.

Use whatever synthetic brand you want, but synthetics do perform better than conventional oils by reducing friction and resistance. Almost everybody has tried just about everything under the sun, but I'm impressed with my gains. I began by going to full synthetic oil in the engine. Mobil1 was my first choice because it was readily available. I did gain a little bit, probably about a half MPG.

Then I researched gear lube.... I settled on Amsoil (because of the 100,000 mile lifespan) in both differentials and transfer case. Fluids were due to be changed anyway- so had to try it..... and DANG if I didn't go from 20 MPG (stock) to 22MPG (oil & gear lube) on the highway (keeping it under 70). I'm sold on this stuff. The first change of Mobil1 and filter was good for 7,000 miles. SWEET! But then I thought about it and realized I wanted more. So I switched to the signature Amsoil and I can't complain about anything. The cost is more, but so far the oil hasn't really even started to get dark with 12,000 miles. Choose the Mobil1, RedLine, or Royal Purple filter, as long as its top-of-the line for synthetics. I haven't noticed any thickening yet either.

The oil is not 3 times more expensive than conventional oil, so I'm actually saving money and saving oil. Now that's "efficiency" too, ya know.
Consider: The cheapest conventional oil is 3.99/qt, so that's $20 for oil plus $8 mid-range filter= $28 every 3,500 if you're lucky. Compared to approx $50 for top-of-the-line synthetic, and $12 for a filter= $62. I'm already at 12k, so 3 times 28= $84. I'm already $12 ahead, allowing me to buy more gas.... Thereby in essence increasing my fuel range and overall efficiency even more. Think of MPG as an overall cost per mile driven.

That's my take on efficiency. Stew on that a while.

Just my perspective.

 

My first Toyota was an '89 2.4L EFI 5-speed 4x4 Ex Cab. I ran a 100# Sprint 'Competition' shell and had 31x10.50R15 Goodyears on it. It only got 13~15 mpg city, but high 20's on the highway.

My '96 Tacoma is equipped the exact same way, but it has the 3.4L V6. It too only gets 13~15 city, but only 19 on the highway.


My 2002 Tundra has the 4.7L V8/auto and a Snug Top bed lid ... it only gets 10~12 city and 16~17 hwy
I recently went with a little narrower tire, Goodyear Fuel Max M+S 245/75-16, and saw a mild mpg increase.

The main reason 4x4s get worse mpg than 2WDs is that the differential gearing is lower. I've been looking into changing the gearing on the Tundra's diffs. I'd like to get the hwy mpg up to 20.

Guess I'll check on synthetic fluids too.

 

What does this do to increase your MPG?




AFE air filter VS AFE air filter and secondary air filter removed VS Full CAI

Is one better than the other for higher MPG?

 

My best MPG over a period of similar driving conditions, was with the OEM air filter with the secondary filter removed.

 

My latest fillup was 28.0mpg with a mix of stop and go city traffic and freeway. This is with intake and exhaust mods.



Warm weather always helps.

 

No intake will improve mpg.

 

So do they hurt your MPG? or Do they do nothing either way? And what about just removing the secondary filter and running an OEM filter?

 

That has been my best combination. although removing the secondary filter can cause problems in areas where emissions testing is done. Probably not to many inspectors would catch that.

The main reason I put my OEM filter back in was that when cruising on the interstates, the AFE ProDry S made a moaning noise, like a cat in heat. Gets to be annoying on long trips.

 

I brought my GTI through inspection here in AZ a little over a year ago. I have a CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, aftermarket diverter, ECU Tune and various other mods, and the inspector didn't say a word. So, I think if I removed the secondary air filter, as long as it doesn't mess with any of the readings they pull via the OBDII port, I should be good.

 

Like I said, a slim chance but making sure you are aware of it.

 

They don't hurt, they really have no mpg effect since the throttle plate is much more restricting than the air filter unless you are running at full throttle all the time.