4wd actuator

Looking for advice
Light stays on and difficulty engaging or disengaging

 

Are you saying the 4WD light stays on no matter what position you put the 4WD switch to?

 

Keep the wheels straight when engaging and disengaging.

More details on what problems you are having.

 

That's right than it goes off the odd time after turnin the key off and on
Flashing 4 low now

 

I had to run it close to 80 Kms in 4 ffs
Next mornin went out turn key a few and it went back into 2 wd
So I tried 4 hi again and nothin!!
4low flashing again

 

Ok. So if your 4lo light is flashing, that means its not engaging. At this point I wouldn't mess with 4lo until you get the regular 4wd drive mode functioning correctly. You could get it stuck in 4lo, then you'll be really screwed.

Just keep trying to get it into 4wd. Try doing it with the truck stopped and moving. Sometimes it will engage while stopped, sometimes not. Depends if everything is lined up. If it simply has a hard time engaging or wont at all, the actuator may need to be removed and cleaned up.

 

If I'm not mistaken I think it has been doin this before
Just not as bad
I picked up a used one for $125.00
As opposed to new $640

Goin to change it right out
Maybe this one can be cleaned and brought back to workin order

 

Is it possible it is an electrical before the actuator

 

Are you getting any voltage using a test light back at the actuator?

 

I will see if I do

 

On my truck my 4hi will work but not 4lo what can I do to fix this help please

 

Here you go OP. I just had issue with mine. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/263525-how-trouble-shoot-4x4-actuator.html

 

Is your 4WD completely engaged, your transmission in Neutral and are going 0 MPH before trying to switch from 4H to 4L?

 

Yes the 4hi will completely ingage but will not go in to 4lo. I did a diff lock mod about a week ago and every thang worked good. I put a 3 in lift on a couple of days later and needed to pull a car outta ditch to day and could not get it to go in to 4lo stoped in natural in d in r nothin

 

JUST WANT TO ENJOY MY TACO!!!!!



So I used a test light at the harness that plugs into the acuator
On the the front diff and no power !!!
But it still engaged 4wd .... For the last time !!!
Now it won't disengage!!!
I did hear grinding last time i tried t disengage it !!!
I have tested all fuses and they seem fine !!!
I can hear noise behind glove box when trying 4wd

I bought a new actuator that has been "upgraded "
Meaning different part number 3031 old and 3032 new
I plugged it in without installing it and it did switch to 4wd but not back out !!!
I contacted dealer and have been given some print out on voltages to test for !!!
They apparently have had no issues with it lmao!!!
I have also read that one lad had bought three actuators before it continued to work ( 3000mi) anyway
And also to unplug the transfer case 4wd motor and back in again !
Worked for him
My level of frustrastion have been increasing


Calling out for some knowledge frm experience and to continue this thread until success

 

There are TWO actuators. The other one is on the transfer case. That one was bad on my truck. Grab one from a junkyard.

 

How did you figure that out or did ya just change it and it worked

 

I took it apart and it was full of water. I noticed the contacts were corroded, so I sanded them a little and filled the pitting in with solder and it worked again for a little while. Then I got tired of it not working when I needed it so I designed a manual shift mechanism for it. It works every time now.

 

Not sure, but I think the 4wd computer engages the ADD (front diff actuator) first, waits for a signal that it has engaged, then shifts the x-fer case into 4wd.

I say this because I thought the t-case actuator was bad, I was getting no signal to operate the actuator. Once I figured out th ADD was full of water, I cleaned it and got it working again, all of a sudden the t-case would shift just fine.

I am thinking the ADD gets the front driveshaft spinning when you are driving along at speed and shift into 4hi, THEN the t-case engages as the gears are spinning at the same speed.

My point is, if the t-case actuator isn't working, check the ADD before you lose your mind worrying about other expensive electronics. You might even be able to jumper out the ADD feedback signal to test the t-case.

 

So it's possible that the new actuator won't work right because the computer reads the fault of the add that may be full of water ?