I need your opinion "undercoating"

I have rust spots on my frame and some rust specks on the welds area. I know I can undercoat the frame my self but I don't have the time to do so. Because I live in the PNW some say I don't need to worry much because it won't rot out. I need your advice on whether I should leave it alone or get it undercoated. Line X is charging $250 to undercoat my truck. Anyone have any experience with Line X undercoating services?
Here's a link to what my frame look like. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/273739-how-you-tacoma-frame-holding-up.html

 

POR-15, KBS coatings, plain ole fluid film are going to be the most popular answers prolly. I used KBS on the underside of my 08' super duty. The stuff is great and works as advertised but can get pretty time consuming and messy...POR-15 is the same thing. Fluid film is aerosol and you can spray and forget about once a year. Don't do old oil, and undercoating can actually trap moisture also. Google is your friend.

 

From Line-X's FAQ:

I have used the sample can of Fluid Film and plan to buy more in the future and do my whole truck.

 

What I mean is Line X the buisness would undercoat it using a product different from the line x stuff.

 

I put a deposit down for this upcoming Saturday to get it undercoated at Line X.

 

Make sure they use something in inhibit existing rust.

 

I'd be worried line-x or similar would eventually crack or chip, allowing moisture to be trapped behind it.
Ziebart undercoating was known for this after it dried out.

I've used rustcheck, and its like an oil based product, but as it dries out, leaves a film. Was around $100 for a treatment. They should remove the headlights and tail lights. Gets inside the doors and rockers.
Supposed to do it every year, but I get it done two years then stop, and have had great luck.
One 10 yr old vehicle was still coated in all the crevices inside my door when I took the panel off.
Leaves a mess in your driveway for a couple days as the product drips out of the weep holes. Mess goes away after a couple weeks. Just a heads up to park on the street if you're fussy about your driveway.
You can buy spray cans and do your own job, but it won't be like the shop who have the wands to get in everywhere.

 

I had mine done with fluid film, its basically a sticky oil. They sprayed it everywhere. It's been on there a couple months and everything still looks wet with oil. Time will tell if it works and how often it needs to be redone.

 

I don't live in a snowy area, but in the past and with my taco I crawl underneath and spot treat any and every rust spot with rust reformer from a rattle can as a fix/preventative. My favorite is the Krylon Rust tough black.. works great, but some would argue not as well as pro-installed undercoatings. Problem I see is that now that I have the truck, we are both going to only be able to spray just so much.. not EVERYTHING.

 

Looking at the fine print in rustproofing warranties -
Seams are not covered ... Eg, the bottom of your doors where they bend up on the inside
Spot welds are not covered
Paint chips are not covered

So it has to be in a panel and from the inside out. They have their backsides covered pretty good.

You need a product that coats the metal and displaces water in all the nooks and crannies water will collect, and where condensation collects. That leaves a pro job where they apply the product inside the body cavities as well as the bottom area.

Examples:
Inside edges of hood.
Insides of doors
Rocker panels
Inside box section of frame

Outside surface of frame eg, cleanup rust lightly. Prime with zinc rich primer. Paint, as primer is porous and you want to seal the area. Then coat the repaired area with a rust preventive film.

I couldn't believe how much water condensed on the inside of my hood till I opened it one morning recently. I'm waiting till a nice hot summer day and taking it in for treatment. The underside I can self maintain after that.

 

Eastwood's Encapsulator works pretty well. Thin it some, 1 gallon is all you need.

 

Stay away from the rubberized undercoating... just traps water and rust behind it. Read this thread... http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/277203-rust-prevention.html

 

If the truck was brand new then undercoat might be the answer but you'll never get it clean enough to undercoat it properly. Fluid Film or the likes work great yes it's yucky to work on once applied but it's worth it for the protection.

 

I have a question that hopefully someone can help me with, i had my truck proffesionally sprayed with corrosion free 3000 and i would like to use fluid film for touch ups when needed. My question is can i use the two products together???

 

I have Krown do mine, you can buy a spray can of the stuff to do your own touch ups. Just had my truck in for the second time the other day, looks brand new underneath so after one winter in the Barrie area so far so good!
Is there not an aerosol can of this 3000 stuff available? If not, better to ask them for a compatible product.

 

Don't use fluid film, use this:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...ts/PRDOVR~0477985P/Rust+Cure+Formula+3000.jsp

Came in second place out of eight for corrosion prevention products tested by the military.

 

As an older mechanic all I can tell you is stay as far away from the rubberized undercoating as possible . As stated above , it traps moisture and does more damage than good . Sockets no longer fit on bolts and its a serious fire hazard ,causes metal to rust from the inside out . Bolts seize up tighter than if the vehicle was left without rust protection .I sure miss the days when Toyota use to " anodise " their bolting hardware