4low-trac

did this mod on my 13 sport today, but when i put it in 4low the light stays solid and no beeping. is this normal on the 12-13's? No switch, just snipped the wire. 2nd one from top with black tracer

 

That should be the right wire. It worked on my '11 Sport.

It isn't necessarily supposed to beep, but the 4LO lamp should blink when engaged.

You can check my write-up too if needed, but it's the same.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/257444-4lo-trac-abs-kill-switch-why-why-not.html#post6254361

 

well it turns out i did thr second wire from the top, not counting the first one... not sure how i managed that, but nothing some solder and heatshrink tubing couldnt fix. got the right one this time and the 4lo light is flashing

 

???

I know there are capacitors that keep energy, so codes are saved in memory for a while, what's the trick to depleting their energy to erase the codes stored???

Some mechanics at a dealer I worked at would touch the negative and positive cables together when the battery was out,

I was a little hesitant but it worked...

 

Just curious if anyone has done the YWM and towed, pulled or hauled anything in very poor traction?

Example - pulling someone out of a ditch in the snow or slick mud?

I have a hard time pulling my trailer with firewood up a short, steep, freshly graveled road. I can only (and barely) make it in 4L 2nd gear. I have to floor it, I can feel the wheel spin with the tach running between 3-4 grand and barely make it by the time I get to the top.

Thanks!

 

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What is the secret to just pulling the second wire out with out cutting it?

 

The purpose of pulling it out is so that you can return the harness to "factory original" condition again by re-inserting that pin.
That way if you have to go to the dealer for warranty work, it won't look tampered with.

If you meant how to actually remove the pin from the connector, I means taking some kind of a small pointed object to depress the barb that keeps the pin in it's place in the connector. I've done this on other electronics, not yet on my Taco yet.

MY QUESTION IS, after the mod and in 4lo, can I turn off the traction control with "swerve switch", should I need to rock the vehicle back and forth?
It was probably covered in earlier posts, but I'm too lazy to go back and look through all of them.

 

Okay, just answered my question.
I've only had my 011 taco for two weeks now, so when I do the mod, I'll extract the pin from the connector and cover it. It's been a long time since I have had a car with a warranty and don't want any hassle from the dealer!

 

Morse - yes, that is what I meant, actually removing from the connector. I have a REALLY tiny screw driver and tried once. I will try again!

No one has any experience with the YWM and being loaded down in slick conditions?

Anyone have any experience with this in slick and/or deep snow?

 

Well I performed the YWM today.
I disconnected the neg. term. on the battery.
I did not want to cut any wires! I've only had my 2011 Access Cab, v6, 6 speed, reg 4wd, sr5 for 4 weeks now.

The hardest part was extracting that pin for the connector. I got it done after about 20 minutes.
I then put heatshrink tubing over the end of that wire, folded it back, hid it inside the harness with the rest of the wires and wrapped elec. tape around it just like the factory used. A toyota tec. would have to be looking real hard to notice the mod. If I am ever questioned, I'll just say, "I bought the truck used from you guys, I don't know what your talking about."
Anyway it worked out just fine. Upon restarting the motor it rand for 2 seconds and then died. I was already aware of this doing the foglight mod.
I played with all of the 4wd and trac. modes and it all worked just as posted. I could not really test it because all off the snow from our two storms has melted. What I really like is the fact that I can still turn off the traction control with the trac switch in 4lo and go back to the factory default.

 

I did the same on a 2013. I didn't disconnect the battery, just the yellow wire connector. Plugged it back in and started fine, no stall no check eng light.
Did some wheeling at Big Bend but didn't encounter anything aggressive enough to kick in 4lo.

 

I still don't understand why Toyota ships the trucks from the factory this way.
Do you think it is really to upsell on the OR package. Seems odd since most salepeople and the average buyer don't really know much about the different drive options.

 

So, tomorrow i might be going for a snow/mud trip... Im gonna do this mod in the morning!!! Don't know why i didn't hear about it before!!!

 

Is this all the same for the 2014s ?

 

Don't see why not. I just did it to my 2013 DCLB Sport and it worked fine. Haven't tried it out yet but I cut the wire, taped the ends, and plugged the harness back in. It switched into 4low no problem. Light flashing, but no buzzer.

 

Same here. I didn't un-hook the battery. Just like this guy^, removed glove box, un-hooked harness, cut factory black elec tape, cut the wire, folded the cut ends over, taped both ends, and elec taped it back where I had cut the original tape off. I'm still waiting to test this out.

I got no weird lights and the truck goes into 4-wd jjst like before. I'm curious as to how this will react in sand.

 

Yeah, it worked fine on my 14. I just cut it and capped the ends for now but I may go back and install a momentary switch so I can bump it and stop the flashing. I run my 4 low for long periods at a time when just easing around the woods and the flash may get irritating at night. Im glad all went well because I was a little nervous cutting wires on a 3 week old truck .

 

I think everyone gets nervous cutting wires in their new truck.