New to forum, glad to be here! And a ? bout 4wd

Hey all!

I just wanted to say hello and pose a question. Just in case it doesn`t show up in my description, I`ve got a `95 4 cylinder automatic with locking hubs. I searched for a while and joined TW to hopefully get an answer. My problem is that all four wheels don`t seem to be pulling and from what I`ve gathered, that isn`t uncommon. So I`m wondering what my options are as far as lockers or what I have to do, replace or check out. Anyway, there is a hill at my folk`s house that I used to be able to get up, no problem. Lately, I haven`t had any luck. I need to get up on the hill to maintain the property. The truck doesn`t seem down on power at all. A few weeks ago, the front wheels weren`t spinning with 4wd engaged (by myself, couldn`t speak for the passenger side), this last Tuesday, the left rear wasn`t turning. So, what are my options? Where should I start? Thanks so much in advance guys!!

 

Hmmm, 73 views and nary a hello or a tip or hint........

 

Put it is 4H/4L, when turning at low speed in an extremely sharp turn, does the front end bind on you (i.e. the steering wheels fights you)? If it does then the front wheel(s) is being driven. Maybe I'm a bit too tired, but I'm actually having a hard time figuring out what you are asking. If you are curious to if you have open differentials (i.e. only one wheel in the front has power and only one wheel in the back has power) then that is a whole different subject.

 

More skinny pedal... And get pics

 

Oh yeah, Welcome

 

Thanks to those who responded. The driver side rear wheel wasn't turning when the suspension was maxed out. Worked fine this weekend, though me and chickie did some improvements to the "path". Still kinda perturbed that the wheel wouldn't turn and am still considering lockers if that is what is in order. Looking to not spend a ton of money and any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks again.

 

Welcome
If u dont have lockers (or "posi"), all 4 wheels will not be driven.
Do u have a rear locker? Probably not by your description, or maybe u just dont know. Your options are electric or air lockers. I would throw a e-locker in the rear. With both wheels pushing in the rear, & at least 1 pulling from the front, that should get u up almost any hill. If that still doesnt work, put a electric locker on the front also.

 

iirc factory e lockers were not available in '95, so you have open differentials. because of that fact, even in 4WD, power will only go to the tire/s w/ the least amount of resistance causing you to spin out. A rear locker would be a great upgrade for you b/c once it is engaged BOTH rear wheels will be turning together reguardless of resistance (mud, one tire up in the air, etc). front lockers are mostly used by guys who do a bit more extreme off-roading like rock crawling

 

Correct, according to the buyers guide sticky.

 

If both of the FRONT wheels aren't being driven, even with the TC in 4WD and the manual hubs in lock position, then you have a problem. Remove the hubs and see if one of them is all gummed up with grease/oil or broken. I had this problem once, and it prevented the manual hubs from engaging the axle spline on one side. With an open diff, then neither wheel will have power.

 

Welcome to TW.

 

If you are saying that all four wheels arnt spinning at the same time, it's because you don't have lockers

 

Alright! Thanks guys! Now for some not too expensive options please.

 

Educate yourself by studying this link:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/148348-how-differential-gear-works.html

Then search the forum for locker, posi, or spool. Then decide.
There are different solutions to choose from. All expensive.

 

Wait what was even going on? Is op's truck broken? Has he confirmed that the front is getting power and he just doesent understand how 4wd and open differentials work? If that's the case and he just wants lockers so "both wheels spin" I'll give you a cost break down for the rear

Auto locker: about 500

Arb air locker: about 1200
Factory e locker axle swap: between 600-1000

Now start googling

 

Welcome to TacomaWorld! Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but you could put a mechanical locker, kinda like a limited slip, in the front. I'm not sure if it would bind or not because of your auto-locking hubs. Most people learn to drive with a mechanical locker but if it really got to you (if you drive like a maniac lol) you could swap to manual hubs. Someone with more experience correct me if I am wrong.. I have only had manual hubs before

 

It is a really bad idea to out an auto locker in the front. Locking the front makes steering extremely difficult, and the front is easily suceptable to breaking, and you don't want to not have a choice about the front locking

 

See I thought the addition of manual hubs cancelled the possibility of binding when unlocked?

 

Here are a couple of really inexpensive options:

1) verify that both manual hubs are in the locked position

2) let about half of the air out of your tires.

It sounds like you are attempting that hill with full air pressure on a tire with a highway tread pattern. Airing down will make a world of difference and you may find you don't need a locker afterall.

 

You are correct. When manual hubs are not locked, there is no steering binding with a locker or posi in front. Not sure about ADD axles.

Also, I believe that IDtruck's estimates do NOT include shop labor, just for the parts. For an occasional wheeler, its an expensive item. For a guy who can wrench a bit, the least expensive option is to remove the diff and install a non-carrier type (like Powertrax?) automatic locker yourself. About $300 I believe.