Who has had a major failure with the 1GRFE V-6??

Sub'd. I'll be adding to this thread soon

http://youtu.be/a52ZHD3cF3g

 

Forgot you posted this.

So the bad oil pumps and bad bearings don't count? It is well known the early models had issues with their oil pumps and bearings.

I'm not one of the early models. Just wondering where you got your info from if you never heard of these issues.

 

Low oil, or poor oil circulation is the death of a healthy engine.

The last rebuild of my spare engine was due to poor circulation. Had plenty of good oil, but the previous owner clearly refused to change their oil. As a fail on my behalf, I never pulled the lower oil pan before install. But once the damage was done, I had to. The sump was so clogged of burnt oil, that it only had to clogged-free spots that were about the size of the tip of the pinky finger. I was surprised that it ran the few months that it did.

 

Ok I may have missed that "well known" but do you have a link to anybody losing engine due to bad oil pump or bearing (which exact bearing we talking about)?
I can tell you that if anybody mentions "bad oil pump" on 1GR I immediately sense BS.
There are only two moving parts in that thing, and they are not even delicate. The fact is, oil pump will always pump oil ....unless:
1 Stops turning because crankshaft is not turning or crankshaft bolt is loose.
2. Oil can not be sucked from Oil pan.

The only "known" 1GR trouble is head-gasket on early trucks. And even that could be avoided if you warm your truck before driving.

 

Damn, that does not sound good!

Any idea on the cause?

 

when you guys say these issues were common on earlier made trucks what years were you referring to?

 

OK the pistons move so do the valves and pretty much everything the headgaskets move

 

I have no idea why you are asking me? You post in every single engine thread and I'm sure if I took the time to read the ones below you posted in them I looked into the issues these engines have a year ago and no I didn't save links. Here are the three that popped up on a simple single search in here and no I did not read them all because I don't care until I know for a fact whats wrong with mine.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/67328-extended-tacoma-warranty-not-so-good.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/73107-sounds-like-bad-pulley-wish.html#post1384704

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...dra-1grfe-v6-engine-dead-98k.html#post5480839

Bad oil "flow" - sorry for the misrepresentation/bad terminology.

You ask me for proof but you provide no proof. You state "none of those failures are really "Toyota" failures" and you have zero proof to go on. Just because you haven't seen it doesn't mean they don't exist. Not sure why I'm the one needing to provide proof when your the one calling me out

Here's one for you:

Rod bearing from 2009


You can search for more if you want Ill find my answers when the old one gets torn down so like I said I don't really care - I just started this thread for people with engine issues. If you want to flame the reasons there are issues you can have your fun. The thread title is not "Who has had a major manufacturers defect with a 1GFRE V-6"

The sky is falling!!!!!

 

I think BlueT's point was that oil pumps are so simple and reliable that there are very few things that CAN go wrong. So if you have an oil delivery issue it's not likely to be the pump. Sounds to me from reading those threads that's the case and it's more of sludgy engine oil.

boyd's engine problem almost sounds more like broken rings to me

 

I'm hoping for valve issues

And if it is that, everyone can laugh while I kick myself in the ass for the next 20 years for not fixing a much easier issue. Either way I got a complete engine for a killer deal so I can strip it and sell it if need be.

I got 1k on the oil I put in there last year when I first noticed I had a gremlin in there with a hammer. Wonder if it's even worth sending it in for analysis?

 

leak down test, stat!

 

You missed previous quote from that person...

How do you cause rod bearing failure? Answer: By starving engine of oil. (maintenance)
how it was starved nobody knows and will not know since vehicle was bought used. I sold my VW to dealership after running three times with out oil because oil line to turbo had burst. I am pretty sure if they resold it, somebody had lost engine very shortly after.
That was your first link.

Second Link:

notice black streaks where you pour oil into engine. This engine most likely failed because somebody had poured something other than oil. Thats also the side where components had failed. Again, somebody pouring something other than oil into engine is maintenance failure.


And Link # 3 with massive sludge build up pictures of engine that failed.

Again bad maintenance. I have yet to see something that failed due to design in those engines (apart from head gasket) so far all I see is bad maintenance.
Now if you say headgasket on early models is subpar, than you have a case. Thats the only item so far that had been indentified to have flaw.
Now proper title than would be "Who had f..ed his engine?"

 

It was 05-06 mid year I believe. 07+ should be good.

 

Toyota recently changed their crank bearing design. The bearings now, are narrower than earlier years. Don't know when the change was implemented, but I compared it this year '13, to my '06 bearings.

Add to that a light weight oil, such as a 20 weight, and it is just a matter of time before the oil gets to hot, liquefies, and bearing contact happens. Especially considering the low ZDDP content that US SAE Branded oils have to have. Recipe for disaster. For the 1GR and all other types of engines.

If someone uses a 5w-20 oil, change it to something thicker. Otherwise, enjoy an short service life of your engine.

Also, "Gas Saving" on the oil cap, is there specifically for that. Not for longevity.

 

Would recommend not running thinner oils at all? My wife has an 08 Mazda 3i with the little 2.0L in it and it says to use 0W-20...

 

x2, my wife's car takes 0W-20, I've been using 5W-20 so far.

 

Nope. I would not recommend running a 20 weight at all. Doesnt matter what winter modifier (ex. "5w") is in there. If you do, don't do extended drain intervals with it. It is already being taxed enough as is.

Especially wouldn't use recycled 20 weight.

Again. All that a 20 weight is for, is for gas mileage. Not for protection, durability, and longevity.

 

Good to know! Thanks! What do you recommend running? 5W or 10W and 30 or 40. I've been running 5W-30 in both my car and Taco.

 

what about 0w-30?

 

I didn't know there was such a thing. haha. Although I didn't know 0w-20 existed either until I changed the oil in my wife's car.