New England B.S. Thread

That thing is sick! A little pricey tho

 

Looks like phillys he's in Ntc .nice runner

 

Finally... Finally, FINALLY hard wired my GPS and radar detector.

I tucked wiring away. GPS wires up in the headliner and down the A column. Radar detector down between the windshield and the dash.



I used a two plug splitter from autozone that I got for $5.99. Used wire from previous projects.




Tucked the Garmin plug up in this little alcove

And I tucked the radar detector into the main harness


Holy crap. I don't remember what half of these wires are for...


And I have yet to relocate my center diff lock to the center console, and because of my OTRATTW switches in the dash, It won't fit back in (you have to trim the switch holes in the kick panel to fit the OTRATTW switches). Fuse panel locker switch ftw

 

So I finally got around to installing the ECGS bushing - sh!t that was painful, and I'm not done.

The first issue was removing the CV shaft from the differential. I spent at least 2 hours trying to pry the damn thing out. I even messaged John for advice and it still didn't work. Finally grabbed a second pair of hands and applied constant pressure while banging on the damn thing to get it out!

So, the c-clip on the shaft now has grooves in it where it made contact with the teeth. Anyone know if it's okay to use it, the shaft looks great.


So now I go to remove the needle bearing. This process wasn't too bad and I ended up making my own tool (ghetto)...it didn't want to come out at first. I'm starting to wonder if the tolerances are off....


Next up - the install....remember how I thought the tolerances were all off.....well, I got the bushing in...well, some of the way. I'm still working on it. It does not want to go easy. Why is the hammer my best friend with this project. It better work.


Can someone confirm that I want it flush with the inner most surface?

 

Out the door to early for a saturday. Need moar coffee.

 

I am attepting to replace mine this weekend also. I havent started but once I do I will relay any info I have for you

 

Did either of you freeze the bushing ahead of time?

 

I havent started yet. I have a guy that wants my camper mirrors so I have to meet him first. For me it will probably be a sunday job

 

That sounds like sound advice - would have been helpful before I started. My only concern would be freezing makes metal brittle....

Any advice on the scored c-clip, Mike?

Also flush with the inner surface, correct?

 

If any of you are from New Hampshire, please help me get my thread going!

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/north-east/300484-new-hampshire-roll-call.html

 

Or just post up here with the rest of the cow Hampshire members

 

Yours looks as close to flush as I got mine. It might be able to go in a little more. The inside of the inner most surface is what I aimed for flush. Remember the inner surface that the bushing slips into tapers to a smaller dimension at the start of the grooves for the splines. You have to reach in and feel for inner flush (but not touching I believe?!?! I say this because the inner surface I believe is a moving surface inside the clamshell). I never got the outer surfaces completely flush. I believe it is because the bushing is meant to be deeper to provide more support for the cv shaft. The tolerances were very minimal on mine as well. I beat the bushing into place over 4 hours in 40 degree weather with the bushing installer I purchased with from ecgs. (Same kit can be found at harbor freight.)
It took me a total of 5-6 hours last February start to finish.

Good luck !

 

I have no idea if freezing would work or not, I just know it's a common thing to do when pressing ball joints just to help with the overly tight tolerances. Just throwing it out there to see if either of you guys had considered it. I've never attempted the bushing replacement so I'm learning from you and Billy. Sorry, no advice on the rest of the replacement, I'm hoping to get some helpful tips from you guys

 

I get some stuck ones at work here and there and they are FROZEN LIKE A ROCK IN ICE, put axle not on, pick up a slide hammer from HFT the one i got there has a puller attachment. Put that on the axle nut and a few slams it will come out

 

Speaking of bushings on a 2010 Tacoma, let me tell you it needed a new LCA by the time i was finished. from all the heat i warped the LCA beating on it, prying and more levels of oxygen and ace. What a bitch. Mine sucked and are bad again

 

I was gonna do mine tomorrow but it was so nice out I did it today. Thank you John for the tool loan, it worked pissa. I put the new one in with my bearing race tool and it went in nice and easy. I checked the vibration thread and ecgs said to put it flush with carrier same as the bearing. Rob thank you for the axel I needed it, my axel nut came halfway off and then I had to cut it off. The worst part was the oil that leaked out. I had only jacked up the drivers side thinking that would help with the oil leaking out. I was wrong it still leaked and it was harder to catch cause it ran off the skid plate. It is road test time

 

No more vibration

 

Rob I got mine flush with the carrier like ecgs had said.

 

NP. Glad to hear it all worked out for you.

You can stop by my work and go for a beer anytime you want.

 

Glad it worked out, Billy!

Rust proof stage 2 is complete, I redid the sliders with bedliner and coated anything underneath and forward facing with that heavy duty rubberized undercoating. The stuff cured really thick and was extremely tacky so I'm hoping it sealed up all the crevices the salt sat and started rusting the metal last year. I'll get pictures of BAMF's new logo, just got those mounted up, bolted with SS hardware.