Long Travel BS Thread

Yea...I'm having a similar issue, but it isn't nearly as bad...yet.

 

Going to need to weld and overlay plate on it , or if you don't have access to a welder use a bunch of bolts

 

Yeah I may have to do both sides saying its like the seem is split all the way across

I have a welder, it's just a pain trying to weld such thin material. I got a rivet gun the other day and feel like riveting a plate to it may be a good idea

 

That's how they hold airplanes together...go for it.

 

Yes but planes still get cracks.... Aske me how I knw

 

Rivits would be good!

 

Tyler, ideally when doing spring under and setting shocks on the axle outside the frame id want them right in front of the axle? Or Towards the top center for ex. 10 o Clock position


And when doing either of those, how much will it change how far the shocks end up being so high near the bedline.

 

Yes ideally you want them on the front of the axle or close to it to help preven axle wrap, the more towards the top of the axle the higher it would be on the top mount , unless you angled the shocks more

 

Has anyone done a shackle flip kit on a 2nd gen with a sua ?

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/233960-project-apocalypto.html

and so have some of the engage trucks

 

The truck shop did on lembowskis truck, If your going to do it I would recommend doing it like his, basically backhalfing the truck so the frame is straight so the shackle mounts are like a 1st gen

 

first glance at this pic I was like, "yea, duct tape, that'll work!" lol.

 

Who's truck is that?

 

Trusso's




*derp....thought it was a truck DTF worked on till I clicked the link.


Sick tacoma there Steve.

 

Mine... well my buddy milton. Its the truck in my avatar. I think the only reason the cab stopped cracking was the cage.

If you want to try without a cage. Id say weld the seam, use long pieces of angle iron the length of the crack and spot weld it together (full welds are actually easier to fully crack out once they start on sheetmetal). And maybe even try getting thin sheetmetal, and gusseting over the sheetmetal and riveting it in.

Seems like overkill, but if you beat on the taco like we were, then theres not much to stop it. Just build the sheetmetal in levels so the break has to go through more so its longer between repair jobs.

Red is angle iron, black is thin sheetmetal, green is rivets


I know, looks like something michelangelo would draw

 

that will never get off the ground.

 

so if he fixes the 1/4 inch difference, are you saying it will make no difference with axle wrap?

that was my thinking as well, which would make axle wrap easier because 1 spring is already in tension and bending to try and make the axle go straight?

 

what about adding a flip kit to my current set up? wouldnt mind the extra lift. the rear is sagging. they have alot of posotive reviews but mainly from crawler guys.

like this



only thing i found was this guy who did it

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/233065-deaver-spring-under-shackle-flip.html

 

Nope, I agree. Just because the wheels are driving forward does not make the axle want to try and straighten out. Your thrust angles on alignment will be a little off but there is no force pulling on one leaf or pushing on the other to magically "straighten" things out. Also when your rear suspension is flexed your axle is crooked because leafs move the axle as they cycle, so if that was true you would get axle wrap on off camber, and mine still has none