LED Light Bars

Its all about the interior components guys. Anyone can replicate stuff nowadays. I'm sure what's going on is they are either replicating or purchasing the shells and using other interior components. Exterior NEVER matters to me when purchasing bars. I always look up type of led chips and lumens output, then any details on the circuitry and power components. Also the design of the reflectors. Reflectors play a HUGE part in how the light is output. And I imagine that's the hardest part for companies to design. The shell comes last. Just to protect and look good. Y'all need to go look at vision x if you haven't already. They have more details on their products than anyone else. Yes they are crazy expensive. But you get what u pay for in my wallet. Which is why I've purchased a few Chinese made bars. And to top it all off I'll be getting a vision x 43" bar that puts out 38,454 lumens. Gonna cost me an arm and a leg at $2k too. But def worth it for the brightest on the market.
"One light to rule them.
One light to bring them.
And in the darkness, blind them!"

 

Careful with the dremel... I did mine and got a little too excited. My switch now needs some attention to keep it in place

 

I dont disagree with you.

I believe you, probably the reason why I don't own rigid...that and because of the price. I personally think they get the shells from the same manufacturer as the others.

You can compare them to AR15 parts, most are made by the same forger. Sometimes you just pay for the name.

I may own some rigid in the future but for now I am beyond happy with my Illumination Supple 30" Double row!!!

 

But on the topic:

I just spent 48 dollars for a OEM switch....32 dollars for the connector wires....3 dollars for the connector. All because my OCD!!

 

I just want to get my hands on a housing! The only one I can find is just a short 7" one. I still have to make my own end caps for it. I will put up a day thread when I get it finished. I emailed rigid to see of I could get a housing that was maybe scratch and dent or "not able to be used in production" but they shot me down quickly. Anyone know where I could get my hands on the housings?

 

Before I make a new thread:

Has anyone found a good way to mount a 30" bar in the upper part of a stock 2012+ grille?

I've seen the lower grille mountings, but I have to have a license plate. I also have an Avid bar, but I'd actually prefer not to use that to reduce the chance of theft.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302954

That's the only way unless you fab your own mount.

I have mine in the lower valance and have an Avid bar and a license plate, I like it.


And. Here's a free way to move your license plate outta the way:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...icense-plate-install-led-bar-lower-grill.html

 

I agree with what others have said. Idc if my light is a "China" light or not, it's pretty much the same as a rigid except rigid is "Made in the USA" and a rigid is literally about 4 times the cost, if not more. For anyone here deciding to get a light bar and you are not rich, I recommend getting a "China" light or whatever you want to call them. But if you really want to spend 4 times the money on the same thing, get a rigid. My $0.02.

 

this. My 40" bar was 275 and lights up everything I could ever need to see.

 

My only reason for suggesting Rigid over the Chinese ones is because you have to be careful who you order through. I'd say about half of the lights out there are crap and may look good at first, but won't last as long or have as good of output. Not saying that amount of price difference for the Rigid's is worth it, but I will guarantee you that a $400 light bar will not be as good as a $1,300 Rigid counterpart.

 

In a way I agree, but I'm sure some people in here will disagree. If a rigid will last 20 years, it MIGHT be worth it, but who knows that yet? I've had my light bar for over 2 years already and still working like day 1, no lights out, no moisture, same brightness. And if a Chinese light did go bad quickly, not like you could buy 4 more over time and still be cheaper than a rigid. lol

 

Yeah, good points.

Sounds like you got a good quality Chinese light haha I've just seen so many fog up from elevation changes or discolor that it's kind of left a bad taste in my mouth.

I'm never going to but a full Rigid light bar either, unless I come across a good amount of money haha only Rigid's I'll buy are their D-series lights.

 

Yeah. The only complaint on the light bar like mine like others have said, the housing fades. Some do, some don't. Mine hasn't, but my brother's has. It's like a dark bronze color. I actually think it looks kind of cool. Lol. Not sure exactly what causes it. I've heard certain chemical in certain car wash soap, the sun, wax. Idk really. But in the end, the light still works like brand new. Even my brother's does. ALWAYS make sure you know you're getting the light from a good company. Like OKleds, blitzpro, etc. Pretty much don't buy one off ebay or somewhere you haven't heard much about the company.

 

Alright, thank you.

 

I recommend this setup…my 30'' bar fits perfect on my lower avid roll bar and no need to trim your valence and do permanent damage. i used some sweet CNC height adjustable clamps from Aurora. i ordered 2 pairs but only needed one pair. i have a line-x coating on my avids which give them about a 1/8'' thicker and it fitted really snug, so i think it would fit nice if you use some rubber strips from like some old bike inner tubes etc…anyways they are ø1.75'' and 20$ a pair if you want them.

The attachments sucks but pm me you phone # and i'll text them to you

 

PM sent.

Have y'all heard about anyone stealing LED bars from vehicles?

 

Not personally but you can always get bolts with notches for a key. Forgot what they are called.

 

tamper-proof bolts

 

Yeah them. I imagine there is some fools out there that would steal em. Especially since light bars are so common now.

Here's a few different types

 

Mine have allen key bolts, I'm thinking of filling the heads with JB weld so they can't be removed without heat. and If I ever need to remove the bar for wahtever reason, a heatgun and wrench will do it.