What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Mettgecko sells a great kit if you want all the work done and just want to wire it up yourself

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...-fs-waterproof-under-bed-rail-led-lights.html

 

Yeah, I have the design with the spec ride bushings and 8 washers on my truck.

 

Thats exactly what I am looking for… That is very clean looking and will just have to figure out how to run the wires up to the dash board to use a factory switch

 

Installed the Pop & Lock

$122 PL8521 Pop & Lock – Power Tailgate Lock for Toyota Tacoma, Fits Models 2005 to 2015 (PL8521)

PL8521 ... great upgrade and used the help from in here to wire it to the Passenger Door instead of the Drivers Door.

Thanks to JTyfz450 for that nugget of wisdom!!

 

Yup they are mickey T baja claw's. 285/75/16

 

Not sure. You can expect some severe forces while off-roading. I imagine you could go to 150 ft-lbs without damaging the balljoint or UCA. I'd call LR to confirm.

It's certainly going to change them. To determine how much involves some serious trigonometry. Might as well get it realigned after messing with them anyway.

Passed you the other day. Trucks coming right along!

I'm very happy with them. What a huge improvement over stock.

 

Go on the SPC site , there are install instructions

 

Don't they just tip the knuckles forward a tad more. Doing it that way rather than via the cam tabs, wouldn't affect it much at all I wouldn't think. I could see camber being affected ever so slightly if it tilts the tire in or out making the change. Not sure about toe though.

 

I'm not sure why you go with a total of +4* caster change. This is what the "A" position will give you. Additionally you will lose around 1" of clearance to the rear of your tire, in the wheel well. This change to "A" position won't affect Toe & Camber that much; but will change your Caster to 1.2* - your truck will be squirrely. 2 hands on the steering wheel at all times!!!

SPC LR says nuetral position on the ball joint is "D" for a total of +2* Caster. I went with position "E" which is +1.0*. This moved my wheel center forward more than 1" and allowed me to run 285/70-17 tires without having to do a cab mount chop. I was able to achieve 2.2* of caster with this setup. Holding the steering steady is manageable.

 

Oh yeah? Where do you live? It must have been on rt 1 since i dont go anywhere else. Haha

 

I ordered nearly $600 (that's ridiculous, at least to me...) in Rigid LED lights for the front of my bumper and that's just to fill the holes in it. Once I decide on the light bar it will likely be another $600. That's just crazy, I'll have more into the lights than the bumper when I'm done!

 

Switched over my winter tires which are mounted on rims - gotta keep my lovely wife out of a pile-up on the highway.

 

Nice! I had the LEER rear glass auto lock hooked in the same manner.

 

So after I installed my ORI's and filled them up to the ride height I wanted, I took it to the shop to have it aligned. I'd have to double check but I am pretty sure I have them both set in the C position and using only the cam tabs the tech set the caster to 2.2* on both sides on the alignment rack. So given that I would assume changing them to the A position should move my overall caster to 3.2* and give me more room at the back of the wheel well.

Am I incorrect there?

 

LOL, I didn't say it would change everything much, just that moving the top of the spindle will have an effect on the other two numbers.

You mighta been coming out of PNSY or it coulda been in Portsmouth, can't recall exactly.

 

I know it will have some affect, I was just curious if it would be a noticeable change in drive/ride on camber and toe.

 

I just looked at the SPC install sheet for our LR UCAs. You are correct on the amount of caster increase. I was mistaken on the 1.2* comment above. LOL. I just woke up from my night shift - got home @4AM.

Going from "C" to "A" rolls the balljoint rearward (hence the increase in caster), but this is why you would lose clearance. If you look at the bottom of the sheet, you will see what I mean.

If you are wanting around 3* of caster, you could go to "D" position and still achieve this, while increasing rear clearance. (When I first installed mine, I was setup at "D" and had rolled my lower cams all of the way forward. The first reading was 3.8*)

 

bjmoose gives a great write up about this. I'll find it and post a link here….

 

Here it is

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...ing-report-light-racing-ucas.html#post3219050