Sam the Taco (Build Thread)

Very much appreciate the insight. An RTT is probably in my future but actually still going back and forth on whether to put it on top or possibly put together a utility trailer to give me even more room for storage. Do like the idea of everything being on the truck though and yours does look excellent.

 

Another question, what type of dual battery setup do you have up front and how did you go about your design and purchases? I want a dual battery set up but with a deep charge battery plus my normal vehicle battery (both 12 volt of course). Would your setup work with differing batteries? You have done a number of things I plan to put together over the next few months even though I have a 2014 with USB and extra 12 volt and 120 volt ports in the front. I just got my Midland CB like yours yesterday and also plan to add many of the same things you have, ham radio, fridge, extra plugs in back, sine wave inverter and solar.

 

See this post for most of the details:
Post 7 of this thread

It's a National Luna Intelligent Solenoid with a controller in the cab. The battery tray is from Columbia Overland. Both have worked great. The National Luna system will work with any 2 batteries. I have an AutoZone brand starter battery and an Optima Yellowtop as my aux battery. For the Columbia Overland tray to work, they both need to be Group 35 batteries. Different sized batteries will cause fitment issues. With 2 Group 35s, everything is snug as a bug.

In terms of installation, I have a total of 4 lines running from the Aux battery:
1. 4 AWG positive line that runs to a Blue Sea Fuse Box under the driver seat. It is then grounded to the driver seat bolt*
2. 4 AWG positive line that runs to behind the rear driver side seat and connected to my inverter (1000 watt pure sine wave). Grounded to a bolt in the storage compartment back there.
3. 4 AWG positive line that runs to the bed of the truck and a Blue Sea Fuse box there. Grounded to the frame near the entrance to the bed compartment.
4. 12 AWG positive and negative lines that are both fused near the battery at 15 amps. These 2 lines run directly to my 2M radio with a noise filter placed just before the radio. This has provided me with really clear audio both transmitting and receiving with no alternator noise or other interference from things like the fridge. My radio works amazingly well and I'm glad I took the time to install it this way. I can easily be heard on repeaters 40 miles away using just 10 watts.

*Note: Everything is fused at least twice. There are inline fuses on all these lines just after they come off the battery. They are then fused at the Blue Sea Fuse boxes or with internal fuses (i.e. the 2M radio and the inverter).

 

Arrowshot, the best advice I can give you is to start using Anderson PowerPoles for all your connections in the cab and in the bed. I just converted everything over to that and it's amazingly easier, safer, and more efficient.

Here's my source for connectors, crimpers, etc:
http://www.powerwerx.com

For connections that will be exposed to the elements, I use Delphi Packard Weatherpack connectors. In the winter, I take off the roof box and disconnect the solar panel. I squirted some silicon into empty connectors to create plugs and seal everything away from the Mag Chloride.

 

Did a few woodworking projects before a trip to the desert last month.

First, I cut the roof box in half to decrease weight and increase aerodynamics:




And I came up with, what I am sure you will all agree, is the best Tacoma Mod of all time:


The Bread Box! Finally! This was the first camping trip I've ever been on where the bread didn't get squished into a sad, consolidated lump of dough. Also, a great place to store Avocados.

 

On the trip to the desert, I learned a LOT. Most importantly, I learned that I really, really need to put a new suspension on this rig. With a week's worth of food, water, fuel, etc, I had about an inch of travel to the bump stops in the front and rear. No Bueno! So, I'll be adding this in the Spring:
3" OME Lift Kit

Also, I had my first long-term exposure to the Red Dirty. All of my electronics faired well except for the switch for the bed lights. So, I used the excuse to make up a new junction box for the bed. I used a dust proof switch I found at the local hardware store.


I also added a PowerPole outlet. I am in the process of changing over all my connections to PowerPole. I also made a proper wiring harness for the junction box again using PowerPoles.


And while I was at it, I added a PowerPole outlet to the back seat area as well:

 

Well done, Sir. Well done.

 

Very much appreciate all the info and it helps a great deal. I have been considering the IBS setup (http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2074). Any pros or cons from your perspective regarding the IBS versus others (aside from cost-)?

 

The IBS and NL systems seem more or less the same to me. The system linked above doesn't seem to have any fusing. Mine has fuses between each battery and the solenoid. I think that's a good idea. One thing that annoys me about the NL system is that when u link the batteries, they just stay linked for 10 minutes. The IBS system gives you the option of linking for 30 or 120 minutes. I think I'd prefer that.

 

Thank you, sir.

 

Appreciate the comments, that is something I would not have known. Will add the fusing idea to my list of issues to address.

 

I had the NL dual battery system on my 80 series Landcruiser and it would draw down the battery after a couple of weeks. The IBS system installed on my Tacoma has a much lower draw and is better IMO.

 

Got an ARB CKMA 12 for Christmas. Finally finished the installation yesterday (it's been cold).





For now, I piped the air out through the grill. Will eventually do something neater, but for now this is still a lot easier than having to open the hood every time.

 

For the sake of posterity, this is what my truck looks like fully loaded and fully articulated... With a completely stock, non-TRD, suspension:



Can't wait to see what this'll look like with a lift.

 

Well, this has been done for a while but I hadn't gotten around to updating this thread. I ordered the OME "Ultimate Heavy Lift Kit" from Cruiser Outfitters.

Then I went over to my friend Marco's house because he is MUCH handier than me:


The front went super smooth. Here's an old and new comparison shot:


Here's the front installed:


The back gave us some more trouble... We ended up needing an extra set of bushings for the rear leafs, so I had to drive around for a couple days with the front lifted and the rear sagging. Then, of course, one of the bolts was completely seized up:


Then Marco went at it with the grinder:


The obligatory comparison shot:


And here are all the details and new and old heights:

 

So, remember those sliders I got that were for a Double Cab Long Bed? Marco also offered to cut them to size and weld them in place for me.

In exchange, I brought him lots of beer and took apart the rear diff on his 60 series for him:


He then welded the sliders in place (sorry I don't have any pics of him cutting them to size as I was too busy trying my best to be helpful):


And here is what they look like after a fresh coat of Spray On Bed Liner:




So, then I took Sam for a camping trip:


And this is what Sam now looks like posing in an alpine meadow:

 

Great build!! Need front and rear armor! Skids!

 

Very nice work, especially the ARB air compressor which may be in my future if I ever get lockers. What did you do to the differential on your buddies truck?

 

Just took it out and he took it somewhere to have it rebuilt. It was making angry noises. It's all better now.

 

The NL dual battery controller connection had gone bad where the wire connects to the monitor/controller. I think having it rattle around in the cab was a bad idea. So, I ordered a flush mount controller and did this: