Getting a light bar.... Where should I put it?

Jetlander · Dec 23, 2013

I say put it in the mail…

Shipping to my place isn't that expensive from 08328.

757 Taco · Dec 24, 2013

Greenbergler said: ↑

as i was scrolling i thought this was my truck and was like wut...
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woozi88 · Dec 25, 2013

My 40" mounted to my roof

skygear · Dec 25, 2013

J0HN_R1 · Jan 5, 2014

How did you mount the bar ?

woozi88 said: ↑

My 40" mounted to my roof

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timmytoast · Jan 5, 2014

HippyMoose said: ↑

Show us some more of it
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^^This

Li0nel1234 · Jan 5, 2014

Chas of MRT said: ↑

I think this is the best way to go for your needs. Throw one of the new SR2 series lights in there and you'd be rocking.
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Where can I get one of these?!
That looks awesome.

Li0nel1234 · Jan 5, 2014

Chas of MRT said: ↑

Rigid 40156 Brackets

Under 6 something from TAP - http://shop.tapautoparts.com/rigid_industries/rigid_srseries/93031/i-1674790.aspx
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Yikes... 80+ bucks for some brackets?!?!?! Unless they're platinum gtfo of here.

timmytoast · Jan 5, 2014

Did you drill through the crumple blocks and use long bolts all the way through?

timmytoast · Jan 5, 2014

adriancast said: ↑

No. Self tapped. I was thinking of that, but this thing is solid. Will do that if it ever fails.
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Nice. Do you remember what self tappers you used?

timmytoast · Jan 5, 2014

adriancast said: ↑

Just the screws I received with the LED Bar; nothing special.
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Thanks. Thinking about this same install.

Newlife · Jan 5, 2014

30" cree in lower valance

30" cree in lower valance and 30" cree on nfab light bar

lower valance only

both

Newlife · Jan 5, 2014

This weekend I will have some more pics with some more lights

woozi88 · Jan 6, 2014

J0HN_R1 said: ↑

How did you mount the bar ?
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Mounted them into the oem roof rack holes with custom brackets

DAGDVIKING · Jan 6, 2014

Bend over and I'll show you... Haha just kidding!

Chas of MRT · Jan 6, 2014

Li0nel1234 said: ↑

Yikes... 80+ bucks for some brackets?!?!?! Unless they're platinum gtfo of here.
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62 with the tacomaworld code. Thats Rigid, the light pricing I understand but then again they are the only ones making these brackets. Let me know if I can be of any help, if you get a light bar to go with it I can do my best to lower the price some more

skygear · Jan 6, 2014

See, that coincides with my rant in the LED thread! http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/244444-led-light-bars.html

skygear said: ↑

The bars/ LED's are pricy because of the expected life span of an LED. Companys know that they could sell these inexpensive, (look at china), but they are shooting themselves in the foot by doing so.*****

The actual R$D is normally computer models and then making of the optics.

Right now, there are some 100W, 50W, 10W, 5W, 3W, etc. on ebay http://www.ebay.com/bhp/5-watt-led

They are very inexpensive. Even for ebay pricing. (EBAY pricing being high)

A matched 'Driver'/ power supply, is in the ~$1-$4 range.

Specially designed extruded housing with heat sinks in them. Well, you could probably get those made in bulk for a buck a foot in whatever color you chose.

Wire, solder, screws, nuts, bolts, cheap...

PCB's - Once you design one on the computer, you PRINT it and can make them by hand. Or send off the design to a printing company that makes PCB's. They you are charged ~$1-$15 depending on the size.

All in after paying someone to assemble a 50" bar, you might be in the ~$150 range at max for cost.

If your a HUGE company, in say China. That has the whole system either automated, or super low wages. You can crank out this type of item for way under the ~$75 mark.
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skygear said: ↑

*****What I mean by this is this/. On HID or Halogen systems, there are consumables. Replacement bulbs, replacement lenses, gaskets, seals, ballasts, and similar. That is where these company's make additional income off their products. Selling you back the part that went bad or blew.

On an LED system, they might get a bracket or a different color lense or cover purchase from you. Then thats it. Done, over, on to the next guy.

All the abuse testing? What for? If you design the item to have the PCB set far enough away from the inner walls, and screw it down. No normal amount of shaking or banging around will have any effect on it.

Water testing, this is important to an extent. Are we driving a submarine? If you build a product and then screw in the appropriate gasket. You should never have moisture issues. In reality, there are PCB boards that are, or sealants that can be applied to the actual boards to make them WATER PROOF. If water gets in, they did something wrong and it is their fault. (manufacturer) -- -- -- - If our vehicles were submerged long enough for water to have a real impact on the light. Our vehicles would be a total loss at that point. Interior, engine, electronics.

Drop test, unless it is rocks and pebbles being shot at the light at 50-100mph, the 'OPTICS' (acrylic, or glass) should not be effected in any way. If we fell off a mountain, cliff, or a building, lets all face the facts. Our vehicles would most likely be totaled and we would be lucky to be alive. At that point, all I would want to do is either rebuild or start unbolting things to sell. If the light was the only thing that survived at that point? GREAT! I just got enough to cover my Insurance deductible.

FIRE - again, if we are in fire hot enough to melt wire, or the actual bar. We would be lucky to be alive. The vehicle would be toast. Charred and nasty. I can't see selling a burnt up LED bar to someone. "But it still works!" ummmm go kick rocks. Might be a cool survival story to mount it on the next rig. But at that point, are you really going to go through the trouble of trying to recover parts from an vehicle that was just on fire.

HCL - well, in real life, unless you are in a lab or a car battery explodes, not likely to come into contact with acid. Acid rain even... Aluminum, coated properly, should never have issues with acid. HCL on bare aluminum would take over a minute for it to actually start to break down the oxidation layer. Thats sitting on or in HCL unmolested. Then the HCL could only do so much even in a large quantity. Eventually, if the bar was in a tub of HCL it would 'eat' the bar after a significant amount of time/

Smash test - really. I have seen people hit rocks with their roof in some recent videos. Even heard of a guy rolling his jeep onto a 50" bar and it surviving. When you are using strong lightweight components like PLASTIC/ ACRYLIC and ALUMINUM. There should not be a failure. IED's and armored vehicles are the obvious exception to this. However, if you survive an explosion, you are highly unlikely to be using that vehicle again. Or salvaging many useful components off of it.

Freezing - This is a reasonable test. But again. This is something that is meant to be in the HOT and COLD. Able to accept the wind chill of the artic and heat of the desert. ALl the components are SOLID STATE internally and thus NO REASON why they wouldn't "fire up". The housing would not have issues and neither should the lense. It is normal weather that a person properly dressed should be able to bear with some complaining.

My 40" was frozen solid the other night. Front was caked with snow. Had about 2 inches solid all the way around it. Lit up just fine. Guess what, SO DID MY FACTORY HEADLIGHTS!
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skygear said: ↑

I want to see actual head to head beam pattern and light output tests. That is where I stand. My Rigids are great so far to me. But I have no reference to compare them against besides my headlights and ARB Fogs.
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J0HN_R1 · Jan 6, 2014

woozi88 said: ↑

Mounted them into the oem roof rack holes with custom brackets
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Pics of the brackets ?

And how are they holding up ?

Thx !

woozi88 · Jan 7, 2014

J0HN_R1 said: ↑

Pics of the brackets ?

And how are they holding up ?

Thx !
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Hold up fine ! They aren't the perfect looking brackets but they do the trick !

808DAKINE · Jan 9, 2014

I know mines a 1st gen but i put mine under my bumper. There were pre drilled holes in the bumper mounts so that was easy. Attached the light to a 2x2x42 angle iron and mounted that to the frame. The light bar is a 42' 240w one from ebay and the light output is amazing.

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