What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

That looks really good, I love line-x seems to hold up the longest, my uncle has had rhino liner in his ram for about 6 or 7 years and it's all chipping and faded to a light gray

 

The Line-X will fade too... well at least mine did. Granted mine was sprayed nearly 15 years ago so it didn't have the UV blocker or whatever the new stuff has.

But it is easily restored: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...djik-mans-laugh-him-build-16.html#post6836852

Other than that, the Line-X has held up to 15 years of pretty decent abuse (I've never thrown an axle in the bed or anything but I've used the hell out of it)

 

My rhinoliner is still holding up although there has been quite a number of years underneath a tonneau cover.

 

My brother had a Ram that was Rhino Lined, he had it redone under warranty. I haven't put any heavy use on my Line-X but I love it.

 

Ya it does fade but compared to some of the rhino liners the line x keeps a darker shade of the black

 

I want to get rid of my crappy set in plastic bed liner and get it line x'd but it's not very practical for me, if anything it might be a better selling point

 

Thanks. Still need to do either the turn signal relocate, or wire up the trail gear led turn signals I have. I'm pleased so for. Though I was hoping it would take some of the angle off of my cv's, but only dropped the front about 0.25" (hub to fender). Still have to get t-case skid and sliders on so hopefully it will drop a little more.

 

x2. I'll do it some day. Just keep finding other stuff to spend money on haha

 

Yeah mine has the UV blocker in it. I also have to put the topper back on so that will help protect it from the sun as well. I got it sprayed because that old POS plastic bed liner was chaffing off my paint down to bare metal. Well worth the money IMO. The warranty follows the vehicle and any Line X dealer will repair it.

 

I know people hate on drop in liners but I know when I'm throwing logs in the back of my truck I don't have to worry about scratches and dents. I just take it out once a year, clean it out and bedline any scratches. The previous owner never did so a hole rusted through the bed. I glassed it but now I feel the drop in liner will offer more protection than a rhino line can.

 

Didn't know you could take the liner out without destroying it. I need to do that this weekend

 

The back end will behave better with the extra weight.

 

Ok, so I have run into a little rubbing problem with my new tires. I am looking into some 1.25" Spidertrax spacers but I am a little confused on the hub-centric ones. On their site it says it fits my year w/o locking hubs. Does that just mean manual hubs? I don't want to have to buy twice so any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

Sounds like you need a rebuild kit for your starter. Cheaper than buying a replacement. I had mine done at about 230,000km. Best get it done now before one day you can't start your truck (that's what happened to me).

 

locking hubs should be the manual hubs.

 

I would like to Line-X my bed but it's in rough shape and has holes from previous owners suspension mods. Now I'm trying to find a long bed liner for this reason alone.

 

1] Replaced the old rusty battery hold down bar with a new OEM eBay'd for $15.

2] Decided to try and make a fuse block/breaker/relay mounting tray like others have done, so I bought some sheet metal and snips to give it a whirl. I decided to prototype out of cardboard first and discovered that there just doesn't seem to be enough depth over in the vicinity of the battery in my old first gen. I don't feel like running power cables all over the engine compartment to where there's room, so that idea seems to be a no-go at this point. Not sure what I'm going to do since I have a pile of relays on the way that will need managed.

3] Broke my HID. Discovered water in the driver's side housing, probably from when I degreased the engine a few days ago and hosed it off. Apparently I didn't get it sealed well enough. So I pulled the front end apart, pulled the housing, baked it in the oven to soften the glue, and pulled it apart. After cleaning the water out, I baked it again and pressed the housing cover on. I thought it might be better to have an even pressure, so I put it face down on the counter and pushed down on the back of the housing. Well, the projector lens is so close to the housing cover that...it broke the JB Weld on the back.

Fuuuuuu.....

Either I'm stronger than I knew, or the JB Weld wasn't as strong as I thought.

So...hopefully some Gorilla super glue and calking will fix and seal it up good enough. I really don't want to toss it and have to buy new ones and venture back into Dremel land. Grrrrr...

 

Hopefully the gorilla glue will work this time around, I wouldn't have gone with job weld to start with but I'm surprised it failed that easy

 

Well, it wasn't a standard retrofit. I had to Dremel out the back of the housing so the projector lens assembly would fit. Then to hold it in place, I used metal tape, then JB Welded over the top of all of it to make it...permanent. Right.

<crossing fingers>

 

I know most everyone bashes JB weld , it works 1 of 2 ways, it either bonds the surfaces like steel or it is a forever fail, cleaning the surfaces is key to that shits success it seems, used it a couple times with good results