Tacoma Lift FAQ/Guide - READ THIS

^this. Wheelers is where I shopped for my lift and will shop there again- plus no sales tax! PM YotaDan if you have any questions. He was super helpful with answering my gazillion questions!

 

Hmm, my brother does have air tools. Is it the kind of thing that could frustrate someone, or is it fairly straight forward? Gonna search for an install thread.

 

It can get really frustrating really fast. You have to keep everything up and lined up in the back, then once all bolts are in and nuts on you have to torque everything to spec.
You can find youtube videos for it all, the front is worse then the back cause of the alignment after the install.
Look on YouTube and I'm sure you will find something close to what you want to do, but if you get stuck or mess something up, you will have to get a tow on a flat bed to a place to fix it all.

 

I just read an instruction PDF, but thats enough for me to pay the $465 for the complete install + alignment.

Now my last thing to decide is silver or red coils and where to order from.

 

Wow, must have been a nasty PDF. What color is your truck?
Once you figure it all out deff shop around and call to make sure it's exactly what you think it is.

 

The pdf didnt seem to bad, but based on what you said, is enough to make me have the pro's do it. Truck is magnetic gray. Also, I seem to be seeing that the consensus is most people do not do the diff drop for 3" or less.

 

From what I have read you don't need the drop till you go over 3". If your truck is silver I would go with a color as close to it as possible. I think it would look good. But that's just my opinion.

 

Alright well I have officially made up my mind, going to go with the Toytec Ultimate 3" with Dakar leafs and LR UCAs. I have done some googling and people seem to like the Toytec as well as OME lifts. I saw good things about this Toytec Ultimate and like that its adjustable. There are a ton of other brands I havent really looked in to. Anything else I should know before ordering?

 

I would take the time and call them, if there is something you missed they might catch it.

 

After reading your second post (quoted above), I have formed the opinion you have very little to no comprehension of the subject on which you speak. I'm going to bed, but tomorrow I will revisit this thread to site specifics.

 

subd

 

Please do, I have gone through what he is going through and have made mistakes. I'm not a mechanic, I'm an ex soldier now gunsmith. Hence the reason I said for him to call places and ask questions.

 

I have been looking around here about this and you can check this out if you want some more feedback.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/46150-ome-lift-kit-vs-toytec-ultimate-coilover-kit.html

 

Order some extended lines from OCTaco. They're better than oem, they're affordable, and safer than stock length. Make sure the new kit has the carrier bearing drop, and bushings for the leaf springs. Don't waste time or money on a carrier bear drop.

 

-This makes no sense at all. An after market UCA corrects the geometry of the spindle as it travels up and down on a lifted vehicle. With the geometry corrected the vehicle can now properly be aligned, and in turn perform correctly under normal operating conditions. Wandering does not enter into the equation. Signs you need an alignment: uneven tire wear, pulling to one side, truck is "tracking" to one side or the other, etc. On the other hand, vehicles can wander for several reasons: worn balljoints, worn tie rod ends, worn/broken/faulty steering rack or steering rack bushing, worn/loose control arm bushings, bad wheel bearings, etc. A bad alignment will wear out your tires faster, give you bad fuel economy, and make driving a chore. A wandering vehicle has the potential to catastrophically fail and kill you.

-If you're torquing anything with an impact gun or impact wrench you should be taken out back and slapped silly. Buy a good torque wrench. Its easy to use. The only place air tools can be of any assistance in installing this type of lift is breaking free any rusted bolts or hardwear, and that's not a problem on a 2013. Not only that, but air tools cannot help you easily remove the UCA... I'll wait for you to go look at yours and tell me why.

There is nothing complicated about any of it. There is also no reason he's going to have to get towed anywhere for anything, unless he tries really hard to screw something up. At most it's very helpful to have an extra set of hands. It would also behoove you to read all of the manufacturers literature, and spend some time cruising the threads. Component break-downs, torque specs, it's all here. Almost every kit that'll fit a Tacoma has step by step write-ups and reviews right here on TW, if you feel so inclined to use the SEARCH feature.

The front differential drop (normally sold as a 1" spacer on an extended bolt) does very little (or nothing at all) to alleviate the CV angles on the front halfshafts in a Gen 2 Tacoma that has been lifted.

The carrier bearing spacer (or drop) is a cheap but fairly important piece of equipment, as it helps keep the drive shaft somewhat straight in a lifted vehicle under normal operation conditions. This helps reduce the dreaded "vibes".

Neither of them are readily noticeable when installed, so WTF does color have to do with it?

And here finally, is some really good advice.

Look man, I'm not trying to jump down your throat. But there's a good chance this TacoBrah can save $500 if he's willing to get a little dirty and do some homework. We talked an Air Force guy into doing his, and he was happier than a pig in shit when he wrapped up the project. He learned a lot, and is passing it along to other guys.

 

Thanks for that breakdown YotaLover. I dont see the carrier bearing spacer on the ordering page, do I call in and ask them to add it to the order?

I just found uncleART's install thread, said it took him about 9 hours. If that is the standard time to do this install, I may wanna pay someone, but on the other hand, I could do the fronts one day then the backs on another day.

One last thing on my mind, is that I am now beginning to debate whether or not to do the full leaf pack in the back. If I do that it will give the back about 2.5" lift so I will need the front at 2.5" and I am wondering how this will look with 265/75/16, I dont like the look of a lot of room inside the wheel wells that makes the tires seem small.

 

I must have misunderstood some stuff I have read out there, there is a ton of stuff. so the wandering I meant must be the pulling or "tracking" you are talking about.

[/QUOTE]-If you're torquing anything with an impact gun or impact wrench you should be taken out back and slapped silly. Buy a good torque wrench. Its easy to use. The only place air tools can be of any assistance in installing this type of lift is breaking free any rusted bolts or hardwear, and that's not a problem on a 2013. Not only that, but air tools cannot help you easily remove the UCA... I'll wait for you to go look at yours and tell me why.[/QUOTE]
First I don't think I said to use an impact for torqueing, but I have used My SAE mechanic friends that has torqueing capabilities up to 150 ft lb. Makes it way faster and easier.

Second I didn't say they would help with the bolt that is about 12" and requires you to bend part of the body to take out and in. (like I said before you can youtube installs)




[/QUOTE]The front differential drop (normally sold as a 1" spacer on an extended bolt) does very little (or nothing at all) to alleviate the CV angles on the front halfshafts in a Gen 2 Tacoma that has been lifted.

The carrier bearing spacer (or drop) is a cheap but fairly important piece of equipment, as it helps keep the drive shaft somewhat straight in a lifted vehicle under normal operation conditions. This helps reduce the dreaded "vibes".[/QUOTE]
I don't know about the carrier bearing drop but I have heard about the diff drop and the 1 inch WILL make a big change to the angles, you may not think so but it does, but thats for over 3" lift. go put a 5" or 6" lift with no drop and see how fast you need new CVs.

[/QUOTE]Neither of them are readily noticeable when installed, so WTF does color have to do with it?[/QUOTE]
Here he is talking about the color of the coil springs on the coilovers, some people like too color match as much as possible. and if its free why not?



[/QUOTE]And here finally, is some really good advice.

Look man, I'm not trying to jump down your throat. But there's a good chance this TacoBrah can save $500 if he's willing to get a little dirty and do some homework. We talked an Air Force guy into doing his, and he was happier than a pig in shit when he wrapped up the project. He learned a lot, and is passing it along to other guys.[/QUOTE]
I don't know how many times I said to call and ask questions, but I know it was more then once. I really wish I knew about this site when I first started, it would have saved me a lot of money. I do agree with very much with the longer brake lines http://www.crownperformance.com/ makes them I think up to 7" above stock length they come in colors at no extra charge and as a front and back set. not bad on the price for the set either I think.
Oh and the messing up and having it towed, been there done that.

 

I'd call them, but it is a standard item in most packages which they should have. You can go to your local hardware store and get two longer bolts and and use washers or metal spacers. I've read some guys don't install it unless they have driveline vibes. It's hit or miss.

If the fronts come preassembled (complete struts, no swapping of springs) you'll save some down time not having to run out to get the old struts compressed. That task is also made much simpler if you're doing the UCAs at the same time.

If you take your time (and I recommend you do as this is your first install), plan on two days. You'll make dumb-dumb mistakes if you're in a hurry.

If you're going to tow or haul I highly recommend a full leaf pack. The oem leafs are junk, i.e. leafs snap, sitting on the bumpstops with 300lbs in the bed, etc. I ran the steel wheels and stock tires the winter before last with 3" of lift and it didn't look too awkward.

A few extra things you'll need:
-Extra cotter pins for the outter tie rods (good idea to always have a few spares anyway)
-Jack stands, I recommend two sets
-Torque wrench
-Really good floor jack
-Tie rod tool (I have this one, works great for tie rods and the upper balljoints)


Now, some guys wrestle with the bolts that hold the UCA on. They're a pain to get out. I ordered an extra set before hand and used an angle grinder and just cut the old ones out. Saved a lot of hassle IMO.

Also, you need to read this thread on install and setting up your UCAs for maximum clearance- http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...earance-driving-report-light-racing-ucas.html

 

How old is this rusty part?

 

Dunno, that's just a google image of the same tool I have. But, living where I do it won't be a couple more winters before my front end starts looking like that.