u joints rear shaft 1995 4wd manual

trying to illim. vibe/squeek sound outta drive train. at 206K miles going to replace u-joints. Are these the same part number for all 3? Is there a better one to buy? If so name of place please. Thx, DM

 

Just replaced the rearward one last weekend. Reached into the parts box I keep in the back of my truck and replaced the old one. Easy enough. Just go to your local auto parts store, Advance Auto Parts for me, and buy two or three and keep them handy, yep there all the same.

 

You say "all 3". The only rear shaft using 3 u-joints is a rare standard cab application using 2 in the Double Cardan joint at the front and a single joint at the diff.
In any case the non DC joints are the same. The joints used in the DC are harder to find and significantly harder to change.
Post 7 and 10 here. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/273119-double-cardan-joint.html

 

1st time anything has been replaced on drive train since new. I kept it well lubed. I was going to do it all since going to have shaft out including carrier bearing. Is the rear one likely to be the culprit squeaker?

 

This time you mentioned "carrier bearing" so you must have an extra cab. That means there are 4 joints, one at each end and 2 in the DC joint just aft of the carrier bearing. The front and rear are the same with the rear usually the one to go first.
Make sure you are lubing all 6 zerks.

 

damn gonna crawl undre it now to count! I wanted all these to do it all at once. Heck maybe it is only the rear? And if bc bearing boot is still in tact is there still a chance it is still operational? Wut is proper way to ck u joint? I was told sticking pry bar in knuckle. Cb bearing shaft can be moved about .500 in all directions.

 

I rechecked the U joints they seem to be tight and lubricated the rubber around the center bearing is still intact it's less than a half an inch of up-and-down inside Waze movement I think at this stage of the game I'm going to check my oil level in the rear differential. I had change that oil last fall with MT redline and it seems like the vibration started when It got cold I have just regular SAE 80-90 to replace it with if I were going to dump it to look for metal. the pinion shaft has no movement only just a little when you rock the driveshaft as if it were rotating it may be goes 1/8 of an inch either direction it does not go in or out or wobble. Most likely just drive it longer until something fails. No sense of throwing parts at it.

 

Ck'd the joints with a pry bar. No play. Ck'd rubber boot around carrier bearing and in tack. Dropped Redline oil installed in the fall and replaced with sae 80-90 in rear diff. Not metal found. Still squeak and rumble. At this point, would assume carrier bearing as can not see it. I suppose I would then drop rear drive shaft out to pinpoint this sound. Will not do this as at this point. Could chalk it up as the BF GR A/T's tires. Dunno. Will let it manifest. Curious as to this double ujoint behind carrier bearing. Is this what is called "cardan" assembly, or is this just 2 ujoints together? (or the same) I have the extended cab model. Some say don't mess with this joint, as well as it uses a different type of grease. OMG! I'll let it shit the bed and then I'll know why the noise.....

 

Read the link to the write up I provided in post 3. It's all about the Double Cardan. Between the 2 Double Cardan u-joints is what is called a centering ball. The grease fitting for it is hard to see and if it goes dry it will scream.

 

I finally got around to reading the link you provided. Well done on your detailed write up! I will peak again and double ck I lubed 3 zirks at the cd joint. Thank you dm

 

My center zirk sticks out like sore thumb. It had always been greased. I did notice that by design, not enough (if any) grease makes it through to opposite side of bearing (opposite side of yoke). One can pump till your hand is cramped and the grease finds path of least resistance. Therefor never making it to full lubrication. Barely any if any grease present, of what I'm speaking of. I imagine this is where my squeak if coming from and where/why most joints fail

 

(I have posted this in another area, just unsure which experience is following what)

Dorman (advance auto) Timen (autozone) national (o'reiley's)
Each 1 year warranty. Between $66-$72

Which one is better? I'm leaning towards my issue being this bearing.
Gotta start somewhere. Not going over $100 for a bearing.
Thx for info. DM

 

Center bearing was shot and also found rear u-joint slightly binding in spots. Repaired both at home and no more noise/vibe/hum.
Went with Dorman center bearing and Moog u-joint...both at Advance Auto. Total under $80. DM