Feeler For 2nd Gen Roof Rack

Good deal Zach. Are you going to order the 8020 stuff already threaded, or will you do that yourself?

I have the 80/20 tech tool kit. The 1575 profile will deflect 0.2889" with a centered 50lb load. I used your original 47" for the length of the bar. With a 100lb centered load you get 0.569" of deflection.

I think those numbers are just fine, especially since most of the stuff we throw up top will be some form of a distributed load. I wouldn't stand in the center of one bar though.

Any way to make it to where you don't need the spacers? I would prefer to have the three feet on either side sit directly on the rubber molding.

Keep it up.

 

VERY interested in hearing more about this! Sounds awesome.

 

I kind of figured the same thing with the deflection. When I looked into pricing, it seemed that the 1575 was the best strength/weight/price option without over building the rack. With the new design if you had a heavier load you could move around crossbars to be right next to each other and bolt them together to help with heavier loads. With lighter loads you could spread them out. Really this way people can customize the rack to what they need it to carry.

I the 80/20 I have ordered now is already tapped on the ends. The price to have them tapped is like 3.00-5.00 per crossmember and the factory machining should be better than what I can produce at home. I have some cross members that will show up today so I can see how good the quality is.

As far as the spacers go, it is very difficult to get the feet all to line up perfectly with the channel and still have the crossbars be the same length throughout the rack. The simplest way to keep the rack from shifting and hitting the paint is to lift it slightly with the spacers. That being said. I am working on making it so the spacers are set inside a plastic block that will sit on the weather strips. That way the spacers are better supported.

 

Can I make a suggestion? What if you notched the rails so that the crossmembers fit into pre-set positions according to the notches, via a small center tab or "T" beneath the crossmember. You could always make the notches close enough such that crossmembers could be lined up to create a "floor" as you described.

The reason I say this is that as soon as you make crossmembers that slide up and down the rail via an infinite number of positions, locked down by some tightening mechanism, you create the possibility that the tightening mechanism loosens or fails. Imagine something heavy or dangerous strapped to the roof rack, only to have a crossmember come lose enough to lose tension in the strap/rope/whatever and your cargo ends up in your bed or the car behind you.

Just a thought, and probably something you already considered.

 

SOMEONE PUT A LIGHTBAR ON!!!!!!!!!
I wanna see if itll work well, id be very interested if it does!

 

Part of the prototype will hopefully include a lightbar. I am planning on picking up a cheap one just to show people.

 

I agree with the concern, but at the same time adding a T type notch still allows for the types of movements to occur just in an upward and downward motion. On the highway this wouldn't be an issue and would solve the problem, however, while off-roading when you are bouncing up and down constantly it could become an issue as the bars could slide up and possibly out of the notches if the bolts came loose.

I think that the key is to use the proper hardware, (lock washers,etc) to minimize movement. Also regular checking the tightness just like you would on any other part of your truck, and making sure when you tie down loads you are working with the design of the rack rather than against it.

 

I was thinking more along the lines of the crossmembers sliding through in a manner where they could not lift up out of the slot - so the rail held them vertically, and the slot or notch held it horizontally.

In any event, I see you have thought this through so no worries.

 

1575 for the test racks showed up. This stuff is awesome. Super stoked about the all aluminum racks.

 

+1

 

Really interested in this next version. Great work, man!

 

The new aluminum prototype should be done by the weekend with the exception of maybe the deflector. I have some materials on order for the deflector that may not be here in time depending on the carrier.

I have some tentative prices for this bolt together aluminum version but these prices are highly dependent on having a group buy type deal. I know that it is hard to say if you haven't seen it yet, but I would like to get a preliminary list so I can dial in pricing and see whether or it will be feasible.

Right now I am looking at a price ranging between $385-445 + shipping for a complete rack. That includes 6 crossbars, side rails, all mounting hardware, 1/4" HDPE marine grade deflector, and some tiedown and mounting hardware that is compatible with the 80/20 extrusion slot. It will be completely aluminum(-deflector), completely bolt together and bolt on (No welding), and able to be added to or modified very easily.

That price range is based off group buys in increments of 9 people. I need a minimum of 6-7 to hit the upper range of those prices. If we can get 18 people it will be in the middle, and if there happens to be 27+ people then the price will be in the low range of those prices.

If we hit the 18+ or 27+ ranges I am looking at doing some prizes/giveaways. Some of the ideas have been selecting one person to get their rack free, giving away a 40" light bar with somebody's rack, or giving away a roto-pax setup with someones rack.

If you think you are serious about this aluminum version let me know and I will start a running list. Once I get some pictures of the prototype, if there is enough interest I will create a new group buy thread with all the details.

 

Another side not is that I have a friend that has the equipment and experience to do firearm grade coatings. He has told me that from his knowledge this coating is extremely durable and scratch resistant. It is much thinner than powder coat but is very durable. If anyone is interested in this I can get details.

 

Very cool. I like the all-aluminium, bolt-together style.

I just lost one of my rubber strips (well, not exactly LOST, it's on the side of I-85 somewhere between Charlotte and Atlanta) and would rather put the money into a rack than buying another stupid rubber strip...

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacoma-marketplace/317754-prinsu-design-studio-roof-racks.html#post8266112

New Rack Prototype was built up today and tested. I am open for orders on the new ones whenever anybody is ready.

 

Hey All, just wanted to throw out a quick update on the roof rack. I've mounted my roof basket & hi lift jack for those interested to see. ARB awning on its way at some point when I get time.

 

Nice man, Glad it worked out for you and excited to see the awning when you get it all figured out. I had the same problem with the bolts in my ARB awning and thus haven't had it mounted since cause I haven't gotten around to making a solution.

 

I want my setup just like that with the basket. Did you make the basket too or is it aftermarket?

 

His basket is aftermarket. I think he said it was a stingray low profile rack

 

Yes, it's a stingray low profile basket from discountramps.com. Was only about $160 or so shipped. The u-bolt mounts it comes with work great with this rack, align pretty much perfectly with the cross bars. Though you can see it hangs a bit off the back because it needs to be slightly offset from the front. But I don't mind at all. Freeway noise is pretty minimal with both up there. And the hi lift tube mounts ($50) work great with the basket for anyone curious.