Drive Shaft Vibrations Solved Step-by-Step

here are my measurements

tc:0
1st shaft: 5.8
2nd shaft: 6.1
ra: (after 0 on 2nd) 3.4

what sort of shim* should i purchase since op's 4 translated to 6.

i have a slight vibe on accel from 60-70.

 

A few more questions and we'll try to help, 4x4?

First shaft seems steep, is it shimmed? If it is, we need the measurement without it shimmed.

So I'm reading this right, the pinion is 6.1-3.4=2.7 degrees up compared to the TC? Do you have a lift? If so what kind?

 

sorry for not supplying that.

4x4 5100 w/ eibach with 1/2? lean spacer? its been a while so im not sure

4 leaf pack with toytec aal.

and yes 2.7 up from tc

this is with shimmed.


here are the new measurements without shims

tc:0
1st m: 4.3
2nd m: 5.8
ra (after 0 on 2ndm): 3.9

hope this helps, let me know if you need anything else

thanks again

 

No problem man, you have 2 options that have worked for your length driveshaft on this thread.

To use my method you'll want to shim the pinion up to 2.9-3.4 degrees up when compared to the TC (1-1.5 degrees shims up). You'll then shim the CB down one washer at a time. (you shouldn't need to exceed 2 degrees between the pinion and the first shaft)

Another method that has worked on that driveshaft is to zero the pinion to the TC or 0.5 degrees down of the TC. (2-2.5 dregree shims down) You'll then shim the CB down till the shafts are 1.0 to 0.1 degrees of each other, one washer at a time. (the first shaft angle should not exceed the second shaft angle)

For shims, I recommend SPC 0.5 degree shims, they come in a pack of 6 and they are stackable. you may need to put a collar to extend the centering pin. (check OZ's posts) to stack the shims. I used 1/2in OD, 3/8in ID steel tube.

if you need more I have SPC 2 degree shims I can part with that will stack with the 0.5s. If you need them PM and I'll send them to you for frees.

Hope this helps and keep us posted on your progress.

 

I appreciate all the help you have given me and to those that contributed to this thread. I have been reading page after page so its nice to have this summed up.

I have a few days to think about it......i found a dealer that would listen to my issues about my front diff drive train vibes and took me seriously. I am without my truck for a few days as they are working to solve my issues. In the meantime i ordered the 0.5 shims (the ones that are slotted instead of having a hole to save some labor time).

I did a advance search on oz-t and even a keyword on the collar you spoke of but failed to produce any real results or understanding. If you could elaborate that would be extremely helpful.

I wouldn't mine snagging those 2* shims you have lying around to get started. I have a method in mind i would like to go but will need to weigh out in my head the pros and cons of each of the methods you described to me.

thanks again!

 

I was going to post a link but it seems to be dead.
Here is the link to OZs build, there's a pic buried in his first post.
I used a 3/8" thick collar/spacer.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/154093-diary-madman-oz-ts-build-pics.html

And here is the pic robbed from him.

 

To everyone out there that is waiting on PMs from me, I am reading them, I'm just really back logged right now on calcs and I have my PE test next Friday for my mechanical engineering license. I will get to them as soon as soon as I can.

 

I know, rule #76

Edit: and thanks Btw

 

I just put the factory shaft back on after the Tom woods fell apart, again. Attempting to correct vibes with angle finder and shims and keep the factory shaft on (TW as spare), the Question is:

I have new Engine mounts from the dealer (got them cheap), truck has 150K now with no real engine NVH issues (I'm easy on it), should I replace them anyways in-case there is some sagging? I did the trans tsb mount last summer, so it should still be fine..

running Dakars w/extra leaf option in back

thanks

 

I slid under my truck today and came up with numbers that I thought were pretty good. I zeroed my (swing style) gauge off the case at 90* I then checked the two shafts both were at 85* The rear end came in at 85* also. So it has a five degree out of the case and then both shaft are a straight shot back to the pumpkin. I will try and pick up a digital gauge that is smaller but I think my vibration must be coming from something else.

 

if your center joint is 0 like you stated..... your vibes are still coming from your driveshaft.

Even if your rear u joint angle is 5deg in the opposite direction of the transmission (to properly keep the planes of rotation parallel) the front and rear u joints are 90* out of phase which will cause vibrations.

 

Would my fix be the carrier spacers or the spring perch shims. If spring shim what * should I get

 

I would get a digital angle finder before going much further to get you accurate angle measurements.

Next, leaf springs, dont even bother to try to "fix" this on the some stock 2+1 leaf packs... they are just too weak an no matter what you do, axle wrap makes the angles all messed and you will get vibrations... theres a reason why ALL 6 lug tacomas made after october 2013 come with the beefier 3+1 leaf packs.


The only way to get these drivelines truly proper is to have a flat center u joint angle (close to 0 degrees) and have the transmission and pinion (front most and rear most) u joints be at the same angle put opposing so that the planes of rotation from the transmission and pinion out of the axle are parallel to each other.

At that point, your vibes will be pretty much gone, but you will still have some due to the fact that now the front and rear most u joints are 90* out of rotational phase.

You CANNOT get these trucks to have an almost 0* angle on the transmission joint, its not possible, you can not lower the tail of the transmission or raise the center u joint enough to do so.... toyota realized this, and it is why they opted to go the route of getting the front and rear u joint angles as close as possible to eliminate the vibration because before each u joint was radically different in their latest driveline vibration tsb.

 

Got the truck back today from toyo after they replaced the front diff and carrier bearing.

new measurements without rear axle shim.
tc 0*
1st shaft 6.0
2nd shaft 6.6
pinion 4.4 (after zero from second)

after countless trials with 1.5* shims, i found the best fit was a 2* shim that osugoose provided me.

after numbers with axle shims only prior to adding washers to the cb for adjustments are:

tc-0
1st shaft 5.7
2nd shaft 6.4
pinion (after zero on 2nd shaft) 2.7

added two spacers to the cb on each side and vibes at 60-70 were gone. *I didnt get to measure the shafts after the added washers but i will probably update it later.

took a while but im glad my truck is vibe free now from the tcase and back as well as front.

 

I am sorry I should have said I have the ironman complete lift in my truck. It is about 2 1/2" all around. I will get the digital gauge and report back after with more specific numbers.

 

gotcha, yeah so you should be good as far as a proper leaf spring. now you just gotta get angles right.

I also wonder if the slip yolk is a 16 spline or something that can be turned 90* to eliminate the out of phase issue.

 

I read on another thread some one flipped the carrier bearing to help with this issue

 

Flipping he carrier bearing doesn't move anything but the center u joint up less than 1/4 in higher if that.... It does not solve the front and rear u joints being 90deg out of phase.

 

I got it to 0.0/6.0/6.2/4.5 degrees, should I just install the 3 degree shim that I already have or order a 4 degree for the axle?

 

First couple of post and I'm reposting in this thread because I think I was in the wrong forum

Just installed OME dakars 3rd leaf removed. 2" spacers in front. i'm getting low level rhythmic vibrations at speeds up to 35 when first running the truck. After it's been driven it seems to diminish. Here's my measurements:

TC: zeroed
1st: 3.3
2nd: 3.9
Pinion: 1.9 up from TC

Reading different forums and a ton of different approaches, it's my understand that the factory Toyota approach would be to shim the pinion down to zero to match the transfer case whereby the TC and Pinion angles cancel each other The first and second shaft are near zero(slight upside-down V) so shouldn't be a factor in causing vibrations. The 1st and 3rd joints cancel each other. Correct? I'd like to 100% confirm before I make any changes.