Long Travel BS Thread

a BS thread is the best way, just make sure you got the right one
this one is long travel (high speed prerunners mostly)


and this one is what you want, solid axle swaps.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/solid-axle-suspension/205596-solid-axle-swap-bs-thread.html

 

Hoping to get a quick answer... anybody know the torque value for the shaft nut (shim cap nut) on a king shock? doing a re-valve and forgot what to torque it to... I know it's said snug is good but wondering if there is a value to it? I know to use a dot of red loc-tite

 

That's what i recall too but wasn't sure if there was a lb/ft value to it? just cant remember what i did last time.... but i want to repeat what I did last time cuz it worked fine. suppose i should ask myself ha

 

Just snug it on with a dot of red and you'll be good.

 

Word. Thanks guys! Stiffning my shit up a bit in the rear, the addition of the tent for summer really showed me how poorly i was valved for the weight haha.

 

It's 35ft.lbs. proper torque of that nut is important. If you do a revalve and have a different torque everytime you might not be getting the fully effect of the revalve due to the clamping force on the shims

 

Oh and yes to the lock tite for kings too since it isn't a lock nut

 

So that is for added strength to the subframe I take it? I'm not planning on hucking my truck. But that seems like a good idea. For a just in case sort of scenario. I think I'll get the heimed uca's with plans to do that in the future.

What about the heimed steering? And if everything is heimed how will that feel on the street as opposed to regular bushings and non solid mounted lca? I'm guessing a harsher ride on road but a more controlled ride off road.

 

Even with fairly mild beating you can fuck up the subframe. As far as street driving the heimed upper and steering change very little.

 

Well, sumbich, just got back in from finishing up a while ago... I snugged em with the mechanics hand touch and a dab of red loc. Whatevs, gonna be fine.

 

Don't sweat it. I use the German torque wrench on mine.... Goodntight

 

haha, thanks Landon. I dont re-valve often and this time was a big enough change i wont have a problem distinguishing the change...

 

No problem man. If you are running a rate plate and a fulcrum shim which I'm sure you are you would need to change the torque a ton to change the valving at all. People underestimate the hydraulic pressure a shock puts on the shims.

 

I know i've got a rate plate in there just not sure what size it is (should have got the caliper on it tonight now that i think of it...) It was standard build when i ordered the shocks for the rear setup i'm running.

I went from:

Reb: straight 8 stack
Comp: 12,8,12,12,12,12

to this:

Reb:
10,10,12,12,12
Comp:
12,12,8,15,15,15,15

 

bought some goodies today

 

12" Smoothies.

I had a straight 8 like we talked about Jason on rebound but was not cutting it... Talked with Tyler Pelfrey about how DSM valved his since it's the same setup and same weight roughly. We'll see how it goes but i've just accepted there's no cookie cutter and am feeling it out and adjusting it for me.

The first two on comp are not double stacked. Actual specs for comp:

1.45: x .012
1.30: x .012
.850: x .008
1.30: x .015
1.15: x .015
1.00: x .015
.850: x .015

 

Thanks, I plated all the way around the mounts, front and rear ones and tied the fronts together. Also tied the fronts to the rear and made skidplate mounts off them as well. I didn't actually plate the entire cross member though. I did fix the lowers and the alignment is done on the uppers. Pros and cons to this IMO but it's the direction I went...

Not a finished shot and some things changed but you get the idea...

 

I did a little digging through here about alignment of long travel, and just wanted to double check the specs of what my front end is at. We couldn't get the caster any better but it seems to ride alright. Will having the caster where it is at cause any problems on the trails?