Faster, more powerful truck?

Lmao. Uh huh. Maybe some iridium sparks.

 

Most of these guys are... To be nice I'll say clueless. I work at a performance shop in FortWorth (not trying to say I'm a genius), and so everyday I'm constantly seeing dyno sheets and seeing what gains you whp and torque as what doesn't. Buy yourself a nice set of long tube headers, if you can't find any, buy a kit and build some. For your mid-pipe do a nice 2.5" X-pipe back to 2 Borla XR1's, then to tips of your choice. It's going to be costly but you'll definitely feel it in the end. And another thing is your going to have to find someone who can physically dyno tune it to get the best tune, no mail order or street tunes. You can put a bottle on your truck, but what I mean by that is your not going to want to go over a 75shot, simply for the fact that your going to blow a stock bottom and top end V6 with anything higher than a 75. I'm this world money buys you speed.

Cheap, Fast, Reliable...pick 2.

 

Weight reduction, especially anything that rotates, will make a huge difference. If you don't do any wheeling you should look into a lighter set of rims/tires. I haven't done a weight reduction in my truck so I don't have many specific ideas for you, but try to focus on shedding weight from the front end. They make light weight batteries, you could look into fiberglass fenders, etc. Start with stripping everything you don't need; that's free!

I used to have an 87 Mustang GT that I took to the drag strip. I was in university at the time so I was always on a tight budget with that car. I cut over 500lbs without removing the carpet/seats/etc and it made a huge difference. I removed the rear speakers, removed all insulation and sound deadening material, trimmed every wire down to it's bare minimum necessary length, ground off any bolts that were longer than needed, and so on. With a mostly stock engine I had some runs about the same as similar cars with big money poured into them. The car was my daily driver and handled much better without the extra bulk as well.

 

With intake and exhaust mods on my 2.7, I bought 20 more horsepower and 29 more foot pounds of torque for $1,100. The one single mod that did the most good was a long tube header.


Greg

 

Well to get more power, especially your low end back....I suggest you start by removing the "performance" part you have installed - there should be a nice get up and go improvement just doing that.

 

Basing gain's by starting with someone else's dyno run with a pre-runner isn't accurate to make that claim.

 

Look at torspd sig were it says N/a mods power gains. This is the only way to get good gains without boost. Think one guy was almost pushing 300 ft lbs of torque to the wheels with just bolt on mods.

I am thinking urd headers, afe intake or just are pro dry s filter, magnaflow muffler, maybe intake manifold spacer, then you need a tuner like UCON EMS or a MAF calibrator. You should get good gains with that setup but nothing close to a supercharger or turbo.


I have also seen that a good y-pipe like urd's also makes good top end gains. Some also say get a cat back but why spend more money to replace the same piping when the only restrictive part is your muffler.

 

He has the same size exhaust, and the v6 has a more restrictive intake according to Gadget....

Besides, Tooter at least has a dyno.... Most here post what they THINK they know.

OP has room for improvement, its a matter of getting facts and paying.

 

Sure he's got a dyno, but he's claiming 20hp and 29 lb-ft (not foot-pounds) without having a baseline with same truck. A pre-runner with heavier tires will dyno lower than a 5-lug but that's his baseline, and different dyno and weather.

 

I think he is just saying............

theres room for improvement and not to be discouraged.

I could be wrong and theres any ways to read comments, like this one for instance isnt meant to argue or anything.

I just think Tooter is trying to convey a simple messege that Toyota left room for improvement and in HIS case he seen xxxxx gains. Maybe if he put YMMV in the comment it would be better?

I dunno, just got some free time and jumped on TW before my buddy gets here to help with spark plugs on my truck.

 

Maybe.......

I'm done washing the convertible and headed to Golden Super Cruise soon, hoping it doesn't rain.

 

2.5" X pipe is too large for the 1GR. The exhaust gas velocity will reduce to much, causing a loss of scavenging, and thus a loss of low end. The Y- pipe or X-pipe needs to be no larger than 2.25" diameter.

Trust me.

 

^

 

Exactly.
My stock exhaust pipe was metric at 2 3/8", and I went slightly smaller to a 2 1/4" pipe so as not to lose velocity by compensating for a more free flowing header and muffler. And while it produced only a slight gain on the dyno over the stock exhaust pipe, more importantly I did not suffer any low end losses from opening up the exhaust.


Greg

 

Sure.
My own experience is completely anecdotal.

And I haven't been able to find any other baseline 2.7 dyno runs other than two. The other one I found has a couple more horsepower, but noticeably less torque which would have made my torque gains even greater, so I used the more balanced dyno results of the two.

If someone has another 2.7 baseline dyno, I'll be happy to use it.


Greg

EDIT:

Just for reference the only other 2.7 baseline dyno I know of logged two more horsepower at 119, and four less ftlbs of torque at 133. That made for more lopsided gains of +18 hp and +33 ftlbs of torque, which was why I didn't use it.

 

I'm reposting...

OK I'm going to keep this simple because everyone keeps getting confused.....

Any exhaust mods will only increase power/torque above 3000 RPM, below 3000 rpm it will just sound cool or hurt performance...

So to maintain the most bottom end use stock or smaller pipe and just change the muffler...

Same for the intake, it will increase the power above 3000 rpm.

the trick is to gain power and not loose the bottom....

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/attachments/introductions-new-arrivals/16569d1192723493-hey-guys-515-l-dyno.jpg

Headers are the best exhaust mod you can make but the gains are over 3000 rpm...

so get the loudest muffer you can stand and or headers, intake spacer, air filter, delete the pcv valve and silencer filter and reset the computer.....

Above 3000 rpm the truck will be faster..

Full synthetic fluids, iridium plugs ect..... All the little things = Big gains

Ultimately we will all need a good tuner but the jury is still out....

 

ProEFI Pro128 or Motech.

 

U air a crewless moto too

 

You're totally correct about headers. Hands down they make the most difference of any intake or exhaust mod (except forced induction).

The 2.7 factory stock torque peak is 3,800 rpms.

On the dyno my LCE long tube header made the biggest change of all by lowering the torque peak 650 rpms down to 3,150 rpms.

The tooter intake manifold spacer lowered it another 250 rpms to 2,900 rpms.

But the real surprise was adding the Flowmaster muffler. On the dyno, it dropped the torque peak down another 100 rpms to just 2,800 rpms. Who would have thought just a muffler could do that? I sure didn't.

So just those three simple mods lowered my torque peak by a whopping 1,000 rpms which is 25% lower than the stock peak.

My truck pulls like a little tractor now.


Greg

 

When ever I want more power I look at tor's build. Just drool over it. That is how Toyota should sell them lol.