Expert sound system help needed.

Of the items on the list I'd ditch the Yellow top (for now) and don't bother with the capacitor. There was a pretty extensive thread about caps on DIYMA that really turned me off to the idea of caps, you'd be better off updating your battery and alternator. For MOST applications a cap isn't necessary. Your truck is only an '07 the battery is still pretty fresh, I'd stick with that. If you had to change it, even after in the audio upgrade, it'd be pretty easy to do.

Early in the audio build, I'm usually measuring spaces to put amps. I'll grab the size specs of the amp that I'm interested in using and build a cardboard mockup to see if it fits were I envision the amp being mounted. Making sure there's adequate clearance for cooling and wiring. With a doublecab you've got quite a few options. Same idea for the sub, you'd have to get the specs and size of the enclosure needed for the output you'd like. I highly recommend Mr. Marv at this point, he could help with the design of the sub box and amp mounts for behind your rear seats, hidden away, all in one. I haven't seen his work in person, but the photos that other TW members have posted reveal outstanding craftsmanship.

 

You have gotten some killer info here already so there is really not much more to say You are going to love a nice system though. I don't think many people know how much more enjoyable music is with a nice setup. Good luck!

 

Thank you, those items will be ditched for now. What do you mean exactly by updating the battery and alternator? At this point I'm still researching on the components I want to get, so i can get a good idea on which will be the best choice for me. Once I get a solid list of the best components I will be contacting Mr. Marv, and figuring out exactly where everything will be installed.

The info I Recieved here from everyone is amazing. I have never installed an entire system so this will help ALOT. Honestly I can't wait to get everything installed and finally get to enjoy a quality sound system. I can't wait to be able to pull up in my ride to meet up with my friends and show them what a system should look, and sound like. Just about all my friends consider their sound systems "the shit" because they have subs in their trunks, and the entire car rattles and sound like crap IMO (I'm not a bass head), although I do like a system that you can almost feel in your body (if you know what I mean).

 

His point was that it's better to replace your battery and alternator before ever resorting to a cap.
Toyota gives you a good battery and alternator (moreso if you have the tow package), so it isn't a concern. Stores will try to convince you that you need optima batteries, extra batteries, caps, etc, but more often than not it's an easy way for them to prey on your lack of electrical knowledge and make a few quick Benjamins.

 

What he said, I got a little long winded^^^^^

 

Well it all depends on how many watts your pushing. If its somethings like 500 watts dont worry bout caps/dual batteries but if its like 2000+ watts then add something. Im gonna be using a Kinetik 60 amp/h back up battery. Dont want the lights to dim on hard bass hits.

 

I doubt you need it. I don't pretend to be an expert on the subject, but if you can learn from me (and my mistakes) and save a buck...

1. I had a KHC600 sitting around from my last install and Marv told me I was better off selling it since it wasn't going to make a difference. He said I probably didn't need it the last time either.

2. I haven't seen anyone install a cap on this forum. There's one guy who swapped to Optima Yellow.

3. My buddy had a Cadillac DeVille. This car already had electrical BS like POW BAM out the ass - security modules, security bypass modules (to get the aftermarket deck working), rain sensing wipers, dual climate controls, power seats, all digital readouts, aftermarket alarm... so on, plus it needed to crank up that 12V Northstar V8.
He put a 2000RMSx1 pushing two 12" vented subs and a 150RMSx4 into it, then added two KHC1400 cells.
About a year later the main battery began to die from old age. In retrospect we should have thought about why the car was getting harder to start, but thought it was just the cold winter. The power cells continued to power the car until spring.
He ended up selling the Kinetiks and bought a single Optima Yellow to replace it all, which was less than the cost of one of the kinetiks.

4. From Consumer Reports:

5. Once the car starts up, isn't the battery out of the picture and it's just the alternator doing the work? Unless you are going to play things with the car off for extended sessions, all you should be concerned about is that initial crank.

 

5. Once the car starts up, isn't the battery out of the picture and it's just the alternator doing the work? Unless you are going to play things with the car off for extended sessions, all you should be concerned about is that initial crank.[/quote]

True to certain extent, I wouldn't just right off the battery as a starting power source only. Think of the battery as a gas tank for the electrical system. The alternator is the electrical pump that keeps the battery topped off. Funny thing about lead acid batteries they don't like being drained to near empty and recharged to full at a rapid rate. The battery also serves as a surge protector.

You can over draw your alternator to the point were it's not topping off the battery. So that killer audio system is sucking the battery dry with the alternator desparately trying to keep up. Everything at this point cascades the alternator is trying to dump as much energy as it can into the battery. Heat starts to build in the charging system and hopefully only a fuse blows. Worse the battery will drop a cell because the 60-70 amps of constant power vs a momentary spike it's receiving overwhelms the battery. Or the alternator will blow a fuse or diode in the rectifer. If you have an ammeter and volt meter you can watch this happen, as I did with my ole man's airplane.

This is worst case with a high electrical load or near dead battery. Without a well maintained battery your whole electrical system can/will take a dump, leaving you stranded.

If I had to make a choice between a cap vs a second battery, I'd go with a second battery.

 

I know I talked to you on PM's, but I'm going to go ahead an post something here, too. What sweater914 and KAPendley have said already is exactly what I was thinking to myself. Take your time and do your research... then pick something that you want. Don't rush your install... you'll only wish you took your time later.
Also, Commtrd said it right as well. It would really save you headaches by getting everything and then doing your install. Popping door panels and plastic parts off an on over and over can actually where them down... you'll end up replacing a number of plastic pieces. I'm so glad I saved everything up and did mine all at once... it was well worth it.
Again, here is the link to my thread.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/40900-09-double-cab-complete-audio-makeover.html
My post was intended to be very informative for those doing their first install. I don't mind answering any questions. I don't know everything either, but I'm sure I can help figure it out... or get the help from some more knowledgable such as folks on here. Also, notice I got everything together and installed all at once. Plus, I started researching 6 months before I even bought my truck, and started a couple weeks after I bought it. You're on the right track... everyone is here if you need us.

 

Yea i wanted a power cell/battery for when i play my system with the engine off. I tend to do that alot for outside gatherings.

 

Thank you for replying. I have nothing but time at this point since money is kinda short. I do have a question for you though. What is the difference between the XS65 Components and CTX65 Coaxials?

 

The CTX65's are a great speaker, but are just coaxials... meaning they are two 6 1/2" speakers in the package, and that's it. Image Dynamics has them priced around $150. I bought those for the rear door for rear fill sound, and they really aren't what you'll hear most from, but still put out great sound. The XS65's are components, meaning they come with two 6 1/2" speakers, two tweeters (I forget the model number), and two crossovers, and is an awesome combo. You'll definately want components for your front doors since you'll want a crossover feeding the correct frequencies to the proper speaker after your amp. ID has them priced around $499, I think? These 6 1/2's perform a little better than the CTX's. Don't get confused by the size of the magnet. Just because the CTX's have a bigger and heavier magnet doesn't mean that produce better sound. Plus, you'll want to get the better speaker and tweeter for the front doors as that's where you'll be hearing the most from. IMO, the XS65's are so badass... just incredibly clear.

 

x2000000

XS series are well worth it, but make SURE you amplify them. Keep in mind that speakers like that WANT power. On HU power they sound like total ass... and you will think you were robbed.

 

what are some good component speaker that are around $150-$200

 

They jacked yer thread!

They jacked yer thread!

 

To my understanding ID makes 6x9 components I think they are called XS-69. I have the 6x9 adapters in my front doors so I was looking into those to use in my front doors and than XS65s in the rear doors. What do you think? Also I've only had the chance to use Infinity coaxials and JBL coaxials, I like them both. How would you compare the ID 6x9 and 6.5 against Infinity and JBL? What other brand component speakers should i look into?

 

HAHAHA

It's cool no hard feelings. Maybe he can learn something too.

 

You're correct... ID makes the XS69 component setup. It's the same setup I have only with 6x9's instead of the 6.5's. Nothing wrong with that setup at all... just a different shaped speaker. Here they are:
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/products.php?Family_Id=7&Product_Id=36

As far as comparing the ID's... I've heard the Infinity speakers and were pretty impressed, and the JBL's were sweet, too. Granted, that was a few years back, so their technology has improved as well I'm sure. Like someone else said on here, you're not building a system for competition... so, as long as you buy a solid quality speaker from a reputable company, and you push the right power to them from good amps, you're going to be satisfied with what you have. Just do some research on the brands you're interested in (Google the speaker model and reviews) and see what people are talking. Then, check your budget, and see what you can do. Like most of us, if you plan on having your truck for a while, drop the extra cash on some nice equipment. Many times, you get what you pay for.