Long Travel BS Thread

If you have a bypass set up correctly, you should hardly need a bump stop

 

It can be valved to effectively limit up-travel.
If you valve it extremely stiff in the last zone it'll act like bumps and compress a little, and if done correctly you would have to be on your nose for a while to get it to compress all the way.

 

put metal washers in between the bump and the frame. mine was spaced down about 1/2inch before i took my core support out,

 

/\ This /\ a "bumpzone" in the bypass does not in anyway limit travel.

 

The TC kit comes with bumpstop spacers. I put them on mine because I was getting up into the lining too much at full bump. The superbumps I had compressed way to much so I went back to stock bump's.

 

It's been 8 months since I last pulled off the bump, but I kinda felt the threads were too short to space it down?

I have seen the Total Chaos kit comes with a spacer but haven't found were to buy just the spacer or taken the time to design/fabricate one haha was just hoping with the Camburg hoops and bypasses it would help reduce the tire to core support contact a bit at full compression.

 

The shop that does my work had them, not sure if they made them or what. Basically just a thick washer.

 

well im running the super bumps from 4wps so it came with a little longer bolt. My spacer isnt anything special, just two 3/16" plate cut in a circle with a hold in the middle on both sides.

 

So trucks going back to the shop on thursday. Less than 1300 miles in 3 weeks and my gears are toast i even did a 1200 mile break in. I got 4.56s in the 8" trd offroad rear end, anyone else have a problem with breaking gears or is the shop im using doing something wrong on install? My buddy with the same truck had the same issue with less than 3000 miles and he had stock size 3.73s gears. From what it looks like hes gona fix it for free i belive but im kinda worried its just gona happen again :/

 

Was the gears the problem? Or did you spin a bearing in the third. Talking with ecgs and they said its a common problem in elocker thirds.

 

Some bs right there Jordan! I had my truck regeared front n rear and had a bad whine in rear. Guy redid it with new gears (or so he said) and noise came back even worse. Took to Yotamasters and they pulled it and showed me the gears were not meshing good at all. They said it looked like the crush sleeve was jacked.

 

I got a question for all you guys.
Where did this 52.5 inch leaf spring measurement # come about??
I always here guys who are doing back end Long travel say that measurement. Just wondering?? thanks

 

Matt Helton talked about it a while back.

It's really more of a jumping off point to start cycling

 

Check ur texts

 

Anyone have a stock gas tank fs ? Or 12" shackles ?

 

This is correct. Him and I ran it all of the 2006 mdr series. I tried a ton of different shackle lengths and measurements that year and that is what worked the best. Until I started breaking main leafs like clock work every 18miles in Barstow. I even did a main leaf swap at a pit during the first race of 07. Nothing like passing linked v8 trucks with a leaf sprung v6 truck!

 

A couple people showed some interest in this axle truss a while back but I just called and its made for the 8" rear end.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/ruffstuff-specialties/312927-toyota-rear-axle-truss.html

On to find someone who makes a truss for the 8.4

 

I ended up going to 54". On my truck at least, at 52.5" the leaves couldn't flatten out at full bump. It would compress the spring laterally forcing it to bow near the eyes. Moving the shackle mount back just a little allowed the spring to fully compress naturally. 05+ frames have a different rise than the 04- too, that may account for the difference. You can see both mounts, not much difference really.