Transmission removal

Hey guys I have the r150 transmission (1996 tacoma 4x4, manual 3.4l) and I got all six transmission bolts, and both starter bolts out, but now I can't get the transmission to move out. It's moved maybe 1/16" away from the engine(I think) but I just can't seem to get the two to separate.

Am I missing something? Is there another bolt somewhere? Or are there any tricks to pulling it back?

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...sion-shaft-detached-flywheel.html#post8724685
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Did you remove the flywheel viewing cover thing?

 

Wasnt the clutch just replaced ?
You are the gentleman with the possible bent or damaged input shaft ?

 

Did you remove the debris plate that covers the bottom 1/4 of the bell housing opening on the engine side? Should be 4 bolts, I think 10mm (or maybe 12mm) heads.

 

Gearcruncher: yeah that's me with the possible input shaft issue, but I had a mechanic look at the old clutch kit and he said it looked like a faulty TOB and it was seizing on the pressure plate, what are the odds of 2 faulty TOB's (both were Aisin brand)

And I'll check today, but it's possible I left a clutch cover bolt on

 

Not sure the clutch cover is the problem since you can't get to it until you get the transmission separated from the engine.

ISU and I are referring to the debris plate on the bell housing. It is removable once you have the 4 lower bolts out. I got my transmission partly out and found the plate had to be removed in order to remove the transmission. I accidentally skipped over the step in the FSM.

If it isn't that, it comes down to playing the angles to take any pressure off the input shaft. One other trick is looping a ratchet strap around the transfer case and the rear axle and tightening it up as tight as you can get it. Then shake the transmission to "jiggle" it free.

 

Ah well I think the PO took the debris plate off (it covers the bottom of the bell housing right?) and didn't put it back on because there are 4 empty bolt holes on the bottom where my repair manual shows the bolts for it being.

Also that ratchet strap thing sounds pretty smart, If I get time and a strap I'll try it out tonight

 

Same issue. I have all 6 bell housing bolts removed, the clutch cover removed, starter, mounts, drive shafts - everything. I can't extract the transmission from the engine. It wiggles a tiny bit vs. the engine - i.e. I can see about a millimeter gap when I rock it, but it just won't budge. What am I missing?

 

I've seen a few 5VZ's hold on the trans for dear life. It's a matter of muscle, the input shaft seizes inside the clutch disc and sometimes the dowls hold on too well.

You can hook up the clutch slave and use the release bearing as a helper while muscling the trans out.

 

So, if I borrow a come-a-long and brute force pull it, I'm not going to break stuff? I have it on a tranny jack, and can align it so I don't bend stuff..?

 

Im having this issue now but mine is about 1/4 inch off the engine and bell housing appears to be hitting the header pipe on the passenger side. It has JBA headers. Dont tell me I have to remove the header.

 

Most of the time they get hung up on the dowel pins

 

I had I had to winch mine out lol. if you got the two bas***d bolts @ the top and sure on all the others its just 20+ years of shmoo holding it on

 

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If you're absolutely certain everything is unbolted, lift up on the transmission tail shaft while someone puts a big flat blade screwdriver in the gap between the engine and bellhousing. Gently pry the bell housing away from the engine. This problem is almost always the dowel pins binding. It will separate.

 

I double check all the bolt are out then grab the output shaft and wiggle it up and down with conviction

 

I have headers too, but mine are the TRD/Thorley ones. I didn't have a problem with clearance, but it was very tight around the cross member. If you aren't using a tranny jack, get one. It makes those tight clearances much easier to negotiate.
What Petrol said. The housing has corrosion in and around the dowels. Keep wiggling until you can get a small flat blade screwdriver in the gap. Watch carefully for it, the gap will be small at first. Work each side with progressively bigger drivers, and keep wiggling. The drivers will lever the bell housing off.

 

Well, it out but I dont know how Im gonna get it back in. Gravity was in my favor on the way out.
All the bolts were out and it was clear of the dowels. Had to rotate it CCW to get the bell housing to clear the header pipe on the passenger side. This is not an easy task when you have a trans jack under it and a floor jack under the tail housing. It hung on EVERYTHING coming out. Tomorrow will attempt to reinstall.
Thanks for all the replies.

 

I wish your arms and your back the best of luck!

 

Just turned 55 this month. Im not slowing down yet but I did just get back from the drug store. Had to restock my little blue pills ............. Aleve.