What is this leak?!

Can you get to it to change it fairly easily?? I'd cut off the hose, replace the tube/mount and the gasket. ( I'd probably change both heater hoses while I'm there ?) And check the radiator and it's hoses really good .... hard to tell from the pics but it might just be the hose that you can cut off and change and add a hose clamp?? I'd not try to get the hoses of ... cut them off and replace them.

 

Ok. Will do. I am going to try the hose clamp you suggested first and see what happens...I am not very optimistic with that though because I just don't have that kinda luck.

 

It is very very tight in there...I only have maybe an inch or so of hose showing and the rest runs under a bunch of stuff, motor and then comes up hugging the firewall to the heater core. How would I go about cutting the rubber hose and adding new? I don't know if I would have enough slack in the hose to just cut the end off and then clamp it?

 

Found a video of a guy that had the same problem...doesn't look like anyone helped him either. This is the only thing I can find on youtube. But it is the exact problem I am having.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNJNZj075Dk

 

So it back between the motor and firewall? Looks like a pita to get to. Maybe from the bottom?

 

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/00800810.pdf
Go to page EM-90...Part is labeled as (No.1 Water By-Pass Pipe)

 

Bingo! If that thing had a hose ring on it would it show in that picture? I can't believe that it wouldn't. Guess based on this that I need to change that gasket out...boy that is goin to be a PITA

 

It would show it. My guess would be that it's a pressed together two piece assembly. You might be in for a trip to the dealer. To assuredly get the leak you'll need to replace the whole pipe assembly and gasket. At least I would b/c I would only want to go in there just once.

Update: Just went and looked at my 2011. It's definitely a pressed together assembly. Looks like it is a MFer to get to. You may have to pull the starter and go in from the bottom. A lift would be very helpful if not a full on necessity. Camelback Toyota lists that bypass pipe for 23 bucks and the gasket probably won't be more than $4 so I would replace them both.

 

Usually, once a hose had been installed for years, it's almost impossible to get off. It's typical to try to rock and twist the hose to get it off and that usually damages the metal or plastic stem. I prefer to cut the hose lengthwise in two or more cuts and peel it off the connector. Hose is cheap...

And when reinstalling a hose - if it's too tight I usually use soap and water to get it to seat.

 

That would be awesome but they aint a connector; according to the schematic it is a full length piece of hose with no connector.

 

Hmmm....replace the whole pipe assembly you mean replacing everything! The hose too all the way to the firewall, man I think I just fainted. I am wondering if I could just replace the gasket and then put a hose clamp on that 'pressed-and-fit' area? I am guessing that 'pressed-and-fit' connection has been compromised.

 

Looking at your pictures it certainly appears where the two pieces press fit is leaking and the gasket as well. A hose clamp will do nothing. Once you take the starter off I really don't think it'll be that bad. The hardest part will probably be getting the two rubber hoses off the old pipe.

Update: Oh and you **maybe** can access it through the wheel well by taking the tire and inner fender liner off. But that's a huge maybe. That's how I had to change the fuel filter on my 22re truck.

 

Just curious as to why a hose clamp wouldn't help? Wouldn't that be stronger than a press fit? So drop the starter and full access to hose, detach hose at firewall. Use new hose and black plastic cover thingy with gasket?

 

Well this is bittersweet: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/4-cylinder/201053-water-bypass-pipe-no-1-a.html

Gotta pull the intake manifold...how intense is that?

 

A hose clamp is designed to be used with a collapsible material like rubber. A hard material like molded plastic will either not move or distort when pressure is applied to it. Translation: You either don't fix the leak or it makes it worse.

Looks like that's your answer. Sux but doable.

 

I am still trying to understand why a hose clamp can't be used there...now I am not going to do it I am going to replace the whole thing but I gotta try to understand this or it will bother me. That is a rubber hose fitting over hard molded plastic...I guess I just don't see how that a hose clamp won't compress the rubber on the molded plastic and seal it better than form fit. I guess I am just dumb. What about a rubber fernco hose clamped to a cast iron drain pipe?

 

At least on my 2011 that whole pipe assembly is made from a hard molded plastic. In the front (where I can see) it appears it is molded in different pieces that are then press fit together. If indeed your center section is made of rubber then you may have some luck. Maybe that was a design change. But if it was indeed rubber you would think it would've come with a clamp from the factory.

 

Ok, that makes sense. How big of a PITA is it to remove that intake manifold?

 

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/00800810.pdf
Look under 2tr cylinder head components. It gives you a good diagram of what you'll have to take off to get the intake off.
I don't think it'll be that bad.

 

Sorry I did not realize that it was a custom 1 piece factory hose....