FINALLY got a Tacoma - what mods and how to make it last?

So I've been looking for a 1st-gen Taco for... seemingly, ever. This weekend I finally pulled the trigger and got myself a Tacoma. I wound up trading a Wrangler and some (more than I intended actually...) cash for an '04 SR5. It's a v6, auto, extended cab with 93k on the clock. The best part is, it's a Texas truck that came to West Virginia (where I bought it) a couple years ago , and I drove it home up here to Ohio.

I'm used to having 4 headlights on my Jeep, so the Toyota seems dim to me. I intend to install some brighter headlights and maybe a different stereo. Any recommendations on lights? Also, I'm planning on getting a topper and setting this thing up for camping and road-tripping, but those are the only mods on my mind. Is there anything else I should do? Anything that would extend this truck's longevity?

I guess that's my real question, how can I make this truck last? I know I need to change the timing belt (I'm assuming it hasn't been done) and have the frame undercoated to protect from rust (soon too, winter is coming fast here). But what else? What should I be on the lookout for? Any common problems I need to keep an eye on? Let me know, fellas!

 

Timing belt and water pump should be done at 90K. Make sure it was. If not, that's a good start.

Also change all the fluids and maintain them according to the FSM.

That's a good way to make sure it lasts.

 

^This

Also, welcome to the forum! I myself just got my first gen last Saturday, it's an 04 double cab 4x4 with 76k original miles. I myself am going to have the timing belt inspected and replaced if needed, other than that, the 3.4 will go for a long long time when maintained. These trucks are tough enough to survive the apocalypse.

 

yep, replace all fluids with high quality synthetics and expect to need to replace both idler pulleys for the belts. flush the tranny and brake fluid systems

the bearings rotors and all front end parts and brakes need a good close inspection as well as the u-joints and then you can think of it as a new truck. once you are sure all these things are in good shape it takes a long time for things to wear out on these trucks

 

Agreed, Just make sure you replace the tranny filter and get a proper fluid flush (not a drain and fill) if you switch to synthetic. I had mine switched to mobil 1 synthetic ATF at 100k mi. now at 109k. no problems.

^this x2

check air filter, clean MAF and throttle body. Replace spark plugs and spark plug wires with OEM plugs.

As for the lights you could replace bulbs with brighter ones for cheap OR get the houses retrofitted (expensive)

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/group-buys/262802-retrofit-source-ongoing-gb-via-andrew-trs.html

 

no need to replace the tranny filter, all they are is a metal screen like the window screen on your house and they omly stop larger particles so they never get blocked up unless the tranny is falling apart, in which case a rebuild is the only solution at that point.

of the hundreds of tranny filters I replaced there were maybe 5 with one or two particles on them and those still didn't need replacing. most times you replace them are only when you have to remove the pan to drain the tranny and its done then just because you have it apart so "why not" but its not because it was needed. tacos have drain plugs so just drain the pan, fill with new fluid, then flush out the remaining old fluid and call it a day.

 

I asked for my pan to be dropped and all fluid removed, including what was in the torque converter. After that, it was refilled with synthetic. This way conventional dextron ATF doesn't mix with synthetic. I've read from many different sources that this was the suggested procedure. The mechanic agreed with me.

If OP were to drain and fill with the dextron type his owners manual suggests, then yes. Dropping the pan and replacing the filter is not needed. If the OP would like to switch to synthetic (his choice, I'm just extending information on what others have said), then its suggested to do what I mentioned.

 

not exactly, you fill the pan with synthetic fluid and disconnect the tranny cooler lines and the new fluid in the pan is pumped by the transmission through the system and exits at the tranny cooler as you continue to add new fluid to the pan as it is pumped out, when the fluid comes out the cooler lines as clean new fluid then your tranny has been completely flushed and is 100% filled with new synthetic fluid. if a tiny bit left behind bothers you then drive it a few miles and drain and refill the pan again.

using outside pumps to force fluid through the tranny to flush it can damage seals but its often done by most shops because its faster and they make more money replacing seals later if they start leaking. this is where the false myth about synthetic fluid making seals leak gets started. its not the fluid but the flawed flush procedure that causes it.

while in a perfect world you don't want to mix synthetic with regular tranny oil it is ok to have a tiny percentage left behind (like an ounce or two) because the only way to avoid not having this is a 100% complete tranny disassemble and rebuild and a brand new dry torque converter installed.

 

Yup.

Zero out your time on fluids and immediate consumables that go with those,,and just drive the thing.

See so many folks buy a used and dump a even ton of bucks into the thing, only to come on here and figure out where it all went or why it wont run.

 

Gotcha guys. I think I'll have the fluids changed tomorrow. Gotta make sure the antifreeze is strong enough too.

The frame on this one is pretty clean. There's some rust and flaking back by the tailgate but the rest is good. I was thinking about having it coated. Is there any chance Toyota would take care of that under the recall or has that ship sailed?

Thanks!

 

In all the searching I did about the topic no one ever explained this. Atleast what I read about not mixing fluid the best you can is correct . Now we know!

 

Regarding headlights, I had the same problem and simply replacing the bulbs didn't help.

I bought TYC part numbers 20607400 and 20607300 from Rock Auto. Shipped they were less that $70 all-in. The difference is incredible. They come with new bulbs.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1418453&parttype=10762

 

^^^^^^ this

in this case the numbers he gives are the correct ones you need but when searching for parts, just be careful to choose your exact year model on the list because some things like the grilles and front ends, headlights, make a few changes in different years so unlike 90% of all parts that are the same from 95-2004 there are some such as headlights that change based on the exact year you have

 

That's an excellent point and I should have included that in my message.

 

To make it last cosmetically garage it over night if you can. My 04 is garaged daily, and the paint looks new still with thick clear coat.

 

Lights have been ordered. I can't stand the dim ones in there now, especially after being spoiled by the Jeep.

I just discovered a new quirk to my truck though. The key won't unlock the driver's side door. So... I'm hoping it's just the key and not something inside the lock.