More clutch/shifting problems

I'll be really glad when I get this sorted out.

I'm still having trouble shifting my truck into first gear after coming to a complete stop, shifting to neutral, and releasing the clutch pedal. So, I decided that I'd adjust the clutch pedal a little bit to make sure that the it's getting fully engaged.

I discovered three things when I did that.

1) The entire push-rod assembly fell out of the master cylinder onto the floor of the truck. I had assumed that this part was supposed to be captured and couldn't be pulled out.

2) I only have about 3 threads left that I can lengthen the rod by. This makes me think the clutch doesn't have long to live.

3) That push-rod assembly bends when I depress the clutch. This can't be right, right? See photos, but it bends as pressure is applied to the pedal. The bend is right at the adjustment nut.




Dammit, why can't I post pictures? Links here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41661692@N06/15781763956
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41661692@N06/15781764276

 

I'm bumping this for another day.

Does anyone know if that rod is supposed to bend like that?

 

Doesn't look bent. Looks like it pivots

 

GearCruncher -

Is there something in particular on that wall of links that you think is relevant? I'm more than willing to read, but I'm not sure where to start to make the most of my time.

Also, is mine that transmission? I thought that was the 2nd gen manual and the first gen was different.

 

It's bending. The metal adjusting rod coming from the master cylinder attaches to the piece that straddles the clutch pedal in a plastic bushing. The plastic bushing is actually breaking from the flexing/bending.

 

No, it's not. It looks just like the second picture on your thread.

 

The push rod is after market. It came with a new clutch master cylinder that I bought at auto zone.

When the rod came out I was actively in the process of adjusting the clutch pedal, so the linear spring (yes, I did that mod) wasn't attached to the clutch pedal. Ergo, the pedal fell, but I don't think that's relevant given that I was adjusting the pedal anyway.

Perhaps I'm missing something, but to adjust the clutch pedal I back the lock nut off, unhook the linear spring, remove the R clip, push the clevis pin out, and slide the whatever-the-hell-it's-called that is at the pedal end of the push rod off the pedal. I twist it in the appropriate direction and re-assemble.

Metal is not bending. I should have taken a picture of it while I had it out. One end of of the push rod goes through the firewall into the master cylinder. The other end is threaded and goes into a plastic bushing inside the whatever-the-hell-it's-called that is at the pedal end. It's the plastic bushing that's giving and bending.

As to clutch wear, I think I must be near the end of the life. There are only about 3 or 4 threads of the push rod left in the adjustment end. However, I think I'm losing some throw, given the bend. If that rod stayed strait I think it would push further.

I might try to get some more pictures tonight, but it's colder than a well digger's ass in the klondike, so I might wait for a warmer day, or maybe heat the garage this weekend.

Thanks for the help.

P.S. I looked up the master cylinder on the auto zone website. There is only one review there, which says this:

I noticed a bit of a leak through the firewall when the rod fell out. (I think I'm getting closer and closer to my answer). I can't for the life of me find a duralast part number or a good online image of that pedal-to-push rod connector.

 

Let's try this.

I think this would be a better design than I have installed. It's all metal.


The one I have on there now is more like this:

 

What transmission have I got? R150F? R151F?

 

Mwrohde, I had this exact same problem. That little joint piece is crap! I went to a junkyard and grabbed that same piece out of an early 2000 Camry. It was actually constructed MUCH better than the tacoma one. I swapped the pieces out right there at the junkyard and have had no issue with that part since. I will go and take a photo of the piece so you can see the difference. Cost me 5 dollars at the junkyard.

 

Sorry for poor quality. This is looking at it from the firewall

 

From the side

 

And finally, from the top. As you can see, this piece is opposite from the stock tacoma part. The rubber is on the opposite end and overall it is MUCH more solid. Why Toyota put this in a manual sedan and not their trucks is beyond me

 

Thanks. That's going to be my backup plan. I've just received another new master cylinder from Rock Auto. I'll put it in this weekend and see.

If it fails the same way I'll follow your route.

Thanks

 

What happened to GearCruncher's posts on this thread?

Anyway, here's where I am.

Another new master cylinder has been installed. Much beefier than the previous one. I'm also pretty satisfied with the pedal adjustment.

When rolling or when not running it shifts in and out of gear just fine. While driving I can shift up and down through the gears without problem.

If I'm sitting at a red light in neutral with the clutch pedal up it won't go in gear without a great deal of fidgeting. Also, when I attempt to push it into first and it won't go the truck nudges forward just a little bit.

Am I now looking at a new clutch?

 

How does the slave cylinder look? If it were me, I'd have replaced the slave at the same time if I were doing the master. Unsure if you did that.

Typically, a new clutch is needed when it has worn too much and slipping occurs.

If you are having problems getting the clutch to release then look to the hydraulics chain as well as the throw fork and any binding on the input shaft. You can use the inspection plate at the bottom of the mouth of the bell housing to look in there.

 

Forgot to mention the slave. It's new as well. I'll look for the inspection port and see what I can see.

 

Also, the slave cylinder is on the outside so you can see how much the throw fork is moving when you depress the clutch.

 

Sure, I can see. That doesn't mean I know what I *should* see. Herein lies part of my problem.

It'll be a while before I can do it. My wife is maki. . . . giving me the opportunity . . . to drive 1200 miles round trip for Thanksgiving. We'll be taking her crappy van.

 

so your saying you have brand new hydraulics and still having trouble going into gear when at a stop? if the engine is not running will it go into gear like butter? then once u start it, doesnt wanna go into gear nearly as easily? id say your pressure plate isnt releasing if so. time for a clutch