Wishbone Runner's Build

Haha, thanks. We got the heads on and the timing chains setup and then worked on his swingout for a while, all in all a productive day for both of us.

 

Nice James!!! glad you were able to hammer it out yourself

 

Thanks dude. I am still not 100% confident everything is fixed, don't want to get my hopes up yet, but feel pretty good about it for now. Still need to check for leaks, mixing oil/coolant etc. then will call it a done deal. Lots of pics to come.

 

fingers crossed for ya!

 

A few leaks on the drive way this morning, not sure if they are residual or fresh . . .

Here is the final parts list and cost:

- Gasket Kit #04112-31720 - $180 - http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/oe-toyota/0411231720

- SnapOn 10 mm Bi-Hex tool - $30 - http://store.snapon.com/Double-Hex-...etric-Lexus-Toyota-10-Double-Hex-P646038.aspx

- 23mm Open Ended Box Wrench - $18

- Water Pump #16100-09471- $87 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Wate...Parts_Accessories&hash=item33954c7805&vxp=mtr

- Head Bolts #90910-02162 (x16) - $110 - http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/oe-toyota/9091002162?search_str=90910-02162

- Mobil 1 Syn Oil 5 Qts (x3) - $75 - Wally World

- Toyota OEM Filters (x2) - $13

- Toyota Super Long Life Coolnt (x3) - $66

- Toyota OEM Spark Plugs (x6) - $24

- Toyota FIPG (RTV) #00295-00103 - $18

- Machine heads and install valve seals - $180

Total: $801

 

couple questions (just in case I ever have to do it)
23mm crescent... you mean an open end wrench? box end?(I think of a crescent as an adjustable even though it's actually a brand name)
SLLC is coolant?
"FPIG" is Form In Place Gasket? (rtv type stuff)
It was the valve guides that you had replaced?

and now I know who has a 10mm Bi-hex should I ever need one

 

Uh, yes, open end wrench. Guess I am using the wrong term there.

Super Long Life Coolant

Yup, Toyota RTV, there are a few types, this one works for both coolant and oil sealing.

I guess they are actually seals. Again, wrong terminology, looked like this:



Haha, I have 16 sweet bolts that I need to find a place to use as well.

 

And pics:

 

This is the left (driver) head, #6 is the one on the right, you can see build up from the misfire, and slightly cleaner area surrounding the valves compared to #4 on the left.

 

Cleaned up heads, they took .003" off of both.

 

I'm assuming you checked valve clearances once you had the heads and cams back on?

 

Nope. I did not have the means to do so, nor was there any real reason to think that they needed checking. The lash caps went back in the same spot, and nothing else was messed with that would affect the clearance. All other that have done this did not either.

Should have? Probably.

Worried about it? Not really.

 

I just saw all your shim buckets open end down in the picture there...
Did they not have shims in them?

 

No not separate shims, each cap is marked with it's thickness. They looked like this, but with a number printed on the bottom of each one. The ones I looked at varied from 37 - 45, not sure what the units are though, 1/1000 inch?

 

weird. so if you have a valve out of spec, you have to get a whole bucket?
I'm used to replacing shims on a motorcycle. It sounds like that could get expensive, but maybe these valves just don't go out of spec since the motor runs at much lower rpms?

 

I think so, that is why I did not want the full valve job.

Here is one with all tensioners in place (not mine, I apparently did not get one). There is one on the main chain, and one on each of the VVTi chains.

 

This thing still in one piece?

 

Damn. Good info though, thanks. I was going back and forth between just loosening things and trying to slide them out of the way, but it sounds like a full removal may be the easier option in the long run.

That damn o ring is what caused me to not use enough sealant, the first time I put the cover on I put some PIFG on the pan as well as the cover, but then sliding the cover on pushed the PIFG to the o ring and off. I actually didn't see the o ring had fallen off til I had the cover almost all the way on, and luckily I did see it, but then had to pull the cover and remove all the sealant and do the whole thing over again.

 

I pull all the studs on the front cover, that makes it easier to not "wipe" the o-ring off with FIPG. I typically only FIPG the cover so there is less of a chance of getting any on the o-ring. I do put a glob of sealant where the cover/block/pan all meet.

 

Thanks, that is basically what I did minus pulling the studs, which would have made this easier. It looks to be leaking from the very front of the cover, right under the crank. I am going to take a better look to make sure it is not the crank seal before pulling the pan.