Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

I'll ditch the 2 jl subs behind the seats as I'm caging my truck and putting racing seats instead of the stock seats, so I won't have anymore space behind the seats but will have some between the the two rear seats. What do you recommend to put in-between those?

 

Some of the alpine low mounting space subs. JL makes some too if I'm not mistaken

 

Yeah I've seen them, but I don't think I need such a thin sub. I'll have some space for a normal box

 

Personally, I can't afford to miss any space. Towards the end of the build, I plan on an audio system. Probably going to glass the door panels for some components and 8"-10" subs. I really need to evaluate the airspace on some of the new gear out there when the time comes nearer.

Did a crazy install on a Porsche with subs behind the pedals in the 90's. There has to be similar low airspace designs today. Even more efficient hopefully.

Thats my end goal. Prosciutto will get into some of the alpine pdx amps too. Would do the marine version due to the intentions I have with the truck. Have to evaluate cone materials and other factors when it comes to possible water ingres

 

Give me a couple days. I'll look at some stuff in my down time

 

HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL!!

 

I was thinking on this setup

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR12D4/Alpine-SWR-12D4.html

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1295S/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html

Single subwoofer 1000w RMS with sealed enclosure. Sub minimum air volume is 0.75-1.00 cu. ft. on a sealed box and the sealed box is 0.95 cubic feet.

I'll wait till seats are in and see how much space I have.

 

Chris's

 

Thanks

 

When you get the new switch panel mount. Put it up in here so we can all oogle!

 

I've gone through this thread and a few others and still have a question about grounding. I don't know much about this stuff so any help would be greatly appreciated. So, the factory negative battery is grounded to the body under the hood(factory location). I will be running a second battery to the bed/cab and from what I've seen, people ground the rear mounted battery to the frame. A few questions I have are; will there be an issue if the front factory battery is grounded to the body and the rear to the frame? Will I need to ground the front battery to the frame as well or will they be fine set up that way?

Next, is there any reason to run both positive(+) and negative (-) cable from the front battery to the rear? I plan on running 1/0 so that can get expensive. I'm thinking that just the positive cable linking both and a short length cable from the rear battery to frame ground is the way to go? Any advice will be of help.

Also, on all the diagrams is see, they all have the ground path just terminate and going to ground. Is everyone grounding all their lights/accessories to the nearest ground on the frame or are you running the paired red and black wires back together and attaching to the fuse block ground buss?

I'm still in the planning phase right now and am trying to work on mounting location for all components and wire routing. This is what I've come up with so far with Paint. It's still a rough draft with a few things that are out of place. I don't have all that stuff but would like to build my setup for future expansion. Thanks again.


Nate

 

Some quick ideas and questions for you nate. Then I will tell you my take on the electrical system you are proposing.

1. i see a fuse bank, separate relay bank, and a terminal block - these are all not weather resistant. Are you putting all of them in the cab? Making a nice waterproof box for them in the engine bay?

2. Just in the multiple boxes an components there, you are getting the bill up there in cost. Is there a specific reason you want to go this way?

Look in my signature area. The first link. I sell those boxes that are waterproof and that have the relays and fuses in them. you can tackle one of these easier and simplify your design drastically. Not to mention save space.


I would recommend grounding your devices close to the accessory. Nice and easy when troubleshooting. You have one wire to check in a harness, and another for the grounding point.

Upgrade the stock mounting point from the battery to ground. Do the BIG 3 upgrade. Same with the secondary battery. Just ground it to the chassis. the frame/ chases is all connected ...

Less chance of RF interference when you ground close to the accessory. no chance of creating a 'magnet' or coil if you loop the wire in points where there is excess.

On your fuse block. question for you. Does out stock fuse block have a breaker inline? (NO) so I wouldn't necessarily use one on the fuse block/ relays.

on the same note as the breakers, read back a couple pages on the use of one on the batteries from he battery guy. I feel the ML-ACR should be sufficient. Again a question. On Diesels with dual battery, do they have a breaker? (no)

in our houses, do we have fuses and breakers? (no) normally one or the other.

If you are going after a way to disconnect the power from one item or another. Consider an actual Disconnect?

 

Thanks for your feedback Skygear. Let me try and answer these in order.
1) I plan on putting all the electric distribution items (fuse blocks, terminal blocks and relays) in the cab. Specifically behind the rear panel of an Access Cab. The battery is mounted on the floor behind passenger so I was trying to keep things as close as possible. With putting things behind that panel, my main constraint is height of the items to be able to be stuff back there.

2) I had started to gather parts for this long ago little by little. So part of the reason for this setup was sticking to what I've already purchased. That includes, ML-ACR, 100A breaker, 12 fuse Blue sea block, auto relays and terminal blocks.

I have seen your relay blocks and they are nice. I just happened to see them too late as I had already purchased these items. What are the dimensions of your 10 relay block? I'd be interested to see if I can fit it behind the rear panel. With that, I'm mounting everything back there to use the existing holes in the rear bulkhead and floors of the cab.

So are you saying get rid of both the 100A breaker for the fuse blocks as well as the 300A one for the ML-ACR? What you are saying is making sense about eliminating the 100A breaker but my concern with the one on the ML-ACR is that long run of 1/0 positive wire running to the rear. Wouldn't I want that there in case there was some freaky situation where it shorted out? I think I saw it somewhere in this thread where someone had a diagram with two beakers on the same run. One on each end. I don't know if they stuck with that plan, but that's kind of what was running through my mind.

Thanks again for your help and I hope it clears up a bit of what's running through my hamster wheel. Again, I don't have any experience with this stuff so your help is appreciated.

Nate

 

Chris what tray are you using for you aux battery?
Im not to excited to put both batteries in the stock location.

 

Look at the thread in my sig. In the opening post there is a link next to the respective box that says 'dimensional drawings' it will have all the specs there. It will fit, however, i prefer you have the supporting facts to that statement. With it being the waterproof monster it is, you could put it in the engine bay...

Sell all the components you are not going to use in the for sale section. people always want the electrical components. If nothing is installed yet, better to do it rite from the start. I will give it to you though, you are on the right track with in cab mounting.

read the specs on the ML-ACR from blue seas site. It is a 500A device. If I was going to breaker something, I would at least meet the spec rating of the component. If you were to self jump with the battery, the draw between the two could be HUGE> causing a breaker to pop.

-No matter how much we know, there is always someone with more knowledge. I m by no means the authority, we are all here to help each other.

 

Check these out.

 

I'm hoping to get the Blue Sea setup before Moab this year. But I'd want to upgrade the alternator and wiring with Bama's kit. So everything plus another batter is looking like $1k

 

Luis, I was playing around with this idea for a couple of years ago.
It is a very viable option. If you have decent fab skills, you can easily built a centre console ( i believe about 13 inches wide ) depending on your rear seats. ID personally recommend you port the box on the rear end facing up, and can also use that space for a arm rest. One of my friends built something similar to this for his truck but for the front not the rear

 

Which alt and what is the BAMA kit ?

 

250A alternator vs the 130A that we have (the trucks with tow package).

His kit includes the alternator upgrade and wire upgrade

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/ma...-electrical-system-upgrade-now-available.html