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DTRL toggle switch mod (stealth mode)

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Crom, Apr 4, 2010.

  1. Aug 29, 2014 at 9:15 AM
    #161
    steveh_2007

    steveh_2007 Pro Member

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    Perhaps someone can help me out...

    I bought the following switch to perform this mod.
    drl_switch_6c67edeae260772e79f4d736be75f735cf558a9c.jpg

    However, the size is not a direct fitment to place in one of the OEM spots to the left of the steering wheel. It is smaller than the Tacoma switches.

    Is there a way to utilize this switch without any cutting or trimming? Or if so, perhaps take a blank switch cap, and use a dremel tool to insert this switch into that spot. Or maybe a trim piece such as the following... any help would be greatly appreciated.
    switch_trim_bb322b3fc9abfff36d022aed95829a7bf0416101.jpg
     
  2. Oct 18, 2014 at 9:13 PM
    #162
    Jacknife

    Jacknife New Member

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    Just performed this mod but changed it up a little. Instead of putting in a switch (Since I'll never want them back on again) all I did was pull the pin out of the connector, that way you dont have to ever bother cutting it. If you wanna put it back in you can no problem.

    I wanted to remove my DRL's because I wired up my fogs to be my DRL's instead. Just curious as to how many people did this same option as I did by pulling the pin out and taping it up instead.
     
  3. Oct 18, 2014 at 9:25 PM
    #163
    Crom

    Crom [OP] Super-Deluxe Member

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    Great. 100% reversible. Good job. :)
     
  4. Oct 19, 2014 at 6:26 AM
    #164
    SpruceTaco

    SpruceTaco トヨタ

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    I did the same thing minus hooking the fogs up for DTRL's. I didn't want DTRL's & I also would never turn them on with the switch so I just pulled the pin & taped it.
     
  5. Oct 28, 2014 at 8:24 PM
    #165
    blackradon

    blackradon Well-Known Member

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    Great write-up OP! very helpful indeed!


    Is a de-pinning tool needed for "pulling the pin"?
     
  6. Oct 29, 2014 at 4:25 AM
    #166
    SpruceTaco

    SpruceTaco トヨタ

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    I just used my needle nose, grabbed the metal pin where it's crimped to the wire & pulled.
     
  7. Dec 13, 2014 at 6:36 PM
    #167
    drscott11

    drscott11 Well-Known Member

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    Just did this on my 2012 Tacoma and it worked flawlessly! Thank you for the info as I did not like the DTL. It was a bit of a pain to access the harness but, with some patience and a little luck, I was able to make it work.

    005.jpg
     
    Audi403 likes this.
  8. Jan 1, 2015 at 9:40 PM
    #168
    AusRunner

    AusRunner Well-Known Member

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    Copying from my original post here: LINK

    If it saves at least one person the frustration I went thru then it's worth it.

    Hated DRLs on all the time so I did the same thing to my 2012. I wanted the ability to turn them off as desired so I got an OEM Fog Light Switch. I had to cut a little inside the hole the switch goes in but after that, it fit perfectly.

    [​IMG]

    Once the switch was in and the wires in place, I found the Green/Red DRL wire and it was as described here but the other two wires were not red. Cutting the Green/Red wire disabled the DRLs but I can't get to it to splice in the switch.

    After I got the switch in and wrestled with the splices, I saw this thread that shows how to remove the fuse box and I should be able to get to the harness this way: LINK

    Parts needed:
    -OEM Toyota Fog Light Switch Part Number: 0050-35976
    -22-18 Splice Wire Connectors
    -22 AWG wire
    -12-10 AWG .250 Tab Vinyl FM. Disconnect
    -Wire Stripper

    The next day I FINALLY got the switch in, wired and working! Does the orange light come on when I press the switch? - No. Do I care? No. The DRLs can now be turned on or off as desired and that was the goal.

    Not really knowing the best way to do this, it was a royal pain. Once I figured out the best method, it was not that big a deal, you just have to really be flexible to get under the dash and have a lot of patience. Detailed instructions are in the linked threads but here is how I did it:

    -Remove the bottom dash
    -Remove the 3 bolts holding in the fuse box and unplug as much as you can
    -Position the fuse box so that you can remove the harness
    >Do NOT try to splice in the switch with the harness attached, trust me, it's almost impossible to get to.

    Once the harness is removed, you can EASILY cut and splice the Green/Red wire

    [​IMG]

    What I did to make things easy is splice 12" extensions onto the original Green/Red wire.

    [​IMG]

    This way, you can reassemble everything and leave the wires hanging out to work with.


    Once everything is reassembled, trim the wires and splice the switch into the harness. The wires can then be tucked into the fusebox. There may be more efficient ways of doing this but I'm not a pro and it's working now.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2015
    CleanYota and dooododoo like this.
  9. Jan 11, 2015 at 4:57 PM
    #169
    dsjacr

    dsjacr Active Member

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    I did this mod today by just cutting the light green and red stripe wire. I taped them up since I only wanted to disable. Now my Traction Control light will no go off on the dash. I disconnected the battery negative for 30 minutes and it went off. While driving a mile or so it came back on. I read for error code to no avail. What could be wrong here? It is an 09 Tacoma 4wd dbl cab. The light was never on until this wire was cut. Thanks
     
  10. Jan 12, 2015 at 5:22 AM
    #170
    CowboyTaco

    CowboyTaco $20 is $20

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    Hmm...not sure how that could have happened. Try reconnecting the wire and see if it goes off. I would have to guess that you pulled something else while you were down there. It is kind of tight quarters and a lot of wires in that same area.
     
  11. Jan 12, 2015 at 7:09 AM
    #171
    dsjacr

    dsjacr Active Member

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    I agree and plan to re check all connections. Pretty sure it is a bad connection since the airbag light is on now. Lol It rotates between airbag and traction control lights. Just my luck. Lol
     
  12. Jan 12, 2015 at 7:32 AM
    #172
    AusRunner

    AusRunner Well-Known Member

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    The 09 may be a bit different that the 12, not certain of that. Did you confirm that the DRLs are indeed disabled when the wire is cut? If they are then you cut the correct wire. Make sure that it's reconnected securely either spliced back together or into a toggle switch and not touching any other wires. It's easiest to remove the entire harness. For the other indicator lights that are now on as a result, something may have shorted when you cut the wire. Use a OBD reader to try and find out where the error is.
     
  13. Jan 12, 2015 at 10:05 AM
    #173
    CowboyTaco

    CowboyTaco $20 is $20

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    Scott,

    I just realized your profile says you have 7" of lift. I've heard of lifting our trucks causing weird traction control issues. It's possible you might have something else going on here. I would start with checking all wires for good connection and reconnecting the one you cut.

    No idea about the airbag light though.
     
  14. Jan 12, 2015 at 3:22 PM
    #174
    dsjacr

    dsjacr Active Member

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    It is definitely possible, but I am leaning more towards a bad connection since it is super tight moving the fuse panel. The lights were not on and have never been on until I tinkered with the fuse panel. Lol Will update once I get back home Thursday with the results. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
     
  15. Jan 15, 2015 at 3:40 PM
    #175
    dsjacr

    dsjacr Active Member

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    I found the culprit! With the panel pushed down to where the DRL wire is visible there is a plug in the far back left corner that was not clicked all the way in. I am airbag and traction control light free again! Phew! Thanks for all of the input!
     
  16. Apr 15, 2015 at 6:42 AM
    #176
    R09ster

    R09ster Well-Known Member

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    So, question, when you turn your low beams on, does the DTRL still turn off or no?
     
  17. Apr 15, 2015 at 10:08 AM
    #177
    Weis1

    Weis1 Go Ducks!

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  18. Apr 15, 2015 at 10:58 AM
    #178
    CowboyTaco

    CowboyTaco $20 is $20

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    Yes.

    Everything acts the same as it does from the factory when the switch is on. All you are essentially doing is giving yourself the option to manually stop the flow of electricity when you want.

    I will say that the DTRLs came in handy the last time I went hunting. I left camp early morning before the sun came up and didn't want my headlights alerting everything in the area of my presence. Turning the DTRLs on allowed me to still see the road while driving really slowly, but not announce my arrival. Very glad I added the switch and not just cut the wire.

    Also, as a side note, I'm not sure if it's listed anywhere, but I got a 3-pole switch (or whatever you call them). It didn't work until I bridged the middle and one of the outer poles. I thought it would work without performing that step and just not turn on the light on the switch. Turns out, I needed a power signal to that middle pole as well.
     
  19. Apr 17, 2015 at 12:45 AM
    #179
    black_magic2010

    black_magic2010 Well-Known Member

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    Just did this mod, but just cut the wire. I have no intentions of ever needing them. I just Installed my HID conversion headlights and don't want the DRL burning through the plastic cover like my original headlight.
     
  20. Jul 7, 2015 at 9:35 AM
    #180
    Gasturbine

    Gasturbine Well-Known Member

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    Not to beat a dead horse, I just want to be clear...if I cut the green wire with the red tracer, will my front turn signals still work on my 2011? I ask because there appears to be two different modes. When the DRLs are on, the turn signal operations turns off the DRL to simulate blinking. When the DRLs are off (headlights on), it turns on the lamp (then off) to simulate the blinking.

    Seem to reason (at least to my dumb ass) if you cut the circuit for the DRLs, if the ECU thinks they should be on (parking/headlamps, and parking brake off) it would toggle to "no power" and they would not blink (stay off).

    Am I missing something?
     

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