About to pull the trigger on lift...

So I have decided on the ome 887 with 5100s front and rear with AAL. Pre assembled from headstrong. I haven't seen too many with the 887 and didn't even know they had em till I emailed headstrong. I want the full 3 inch lift is why I went with these. I am not doing uca until I save up my tires will be fine. I'm going to want them to wear out anyways lol that way I can go bigger. I am debating extended brake lines in the rear. Should I get them up from too? Also is there anything I should get before install?? Also if anyone has this setup are you happy with it. Any help would be great and yes I've searched and there is a lack of ome 887 posts. Thanks AATW

 

Also I plan on removing sway bar fwiw and I have aftermarket wheels

 

I removed my sway bar and after a week or two you barely feel the difference. Just drive your truck like a TRUCK and you will be fine.

 

Extended brake lines in front and rear would be a good idea.

 

I have no experience with the 887s. If you were leaving stock shocks your break lines would be fine. Depends on how much more travel the 5100s give you >1" I would extend them. I do agree, Make sure you save for UCA's while those tires wear out. LR UCAs are only 300. Thats nothing when it comes to shredding 1000+ worth of rubber. Good luck man.

 

3 in lift + stock uca /= proper alignment .... your going to have a damn hard time getting it aligned at 2 inches, let alone 3.

 

Well he says he doesn't mind wearing out his current tires. I hope he realizes how quick them puppies will burn with that much camber on em. .

 

I'd highly recommend doing the UCA's at the same time. Save up the $300, it will save you doing essentially half the job over again to put them in. Also, the Light Racing ones are adjustable so you can get your alignment at least in the ballpark manually.

I did a 3" Icon lift with Deavers in the back and my brake lines are fine at full drop. Fine, but tight. Advice I've read, and will do, is to wait until you do a brake fluid change and do them then. Again, no point in bleeding the system twice.

 

OP, you DO NOT need brake lines at all, buying them would be a complete waste of money unless you just wanted new lines because your old ones are in bad shape.

I am 100% positive on this and not because I'm just guessing like most due to misinformation on this forum. With the 5100 up front and the standard 5100 in the rear you simply don't need them, I can detail why if need be.

Keep in mind there are plenty of people on here who like to offer advice even though they know very little about what it is they are talking about.

 

It will be difficult for an alignment tech to get the alignment right with factory UCA's on a full 3" of lift. Does that mean you need them? That depends on your definition of Need.

Your truck will not burst into flames if you drive it on factory UCA's with that much lift. Your truck will also not hold alignment for very long, so if you have a Great alignment tech... you're going to need him to re-align your truck on the same schedule as your oil changes. Most shops that do alignments won't give you a lifetime alignment plan on a vehicle where you're asking for a non-factory alignment... so you're looking at a hundred bucks every time the do the 'speciality alignment' on your Taco.

All of the above considered... Personally, I waited until I could afford a set of UCA's before moving forward with my own lift plans.

Depending on the tire, you're looking at about 3-5k miles before they're bald on the trouble spots created by misalignment. Source: I mauled my first set of Hankooks because I was a moron and blindly trusted Tire Kingdom on an alignment w/ no print out.

I don't know if you need the extended brake lines. I installed extended brake lines when I set out to get 3" of lift. I did so because I was already going to have the truck up on jacks, and figured I would go ahead and put some steel braid lines in place.

As long as you're going with adjustable front coilovers, you can dial in the 3" of lift you're looking for. I went with OME 887's on Nitrocharger Sport shocks and they would've been fine except I lost a bunch of lift when I put trail armor on and couldn't re-gain it until I upgraded my front Coilovers to Adjustable Icon 14"/700lb springs. Now, this was not only because the new set was adjustable, but also rated for the extra weight of the trail armor in the first place.

Again, it all boils down to how you weigh risks/rewards when choosing whether or not to install these things. Some people call them 'extras' some people call them 'required' and others call them 'a big old waste of money.'

 

Fact: The Bistien 5100 front shocks do not yield results that would constitute longer lines. Keep in mind these are factory replacement shocks designed to replace the shocks put on by Toyota. If longer lines were even part of the equation, which they aren't, Bilstien would have indicated this.

Fact: The Bistien 5100 rear shocks (standard length) do not extend out far enough to pull the brake lines out. With the rear the shocks are the limiting factor for droop as with OME rear shocks, which extend out approximately 1.5" over the 5100s. OME (ARB) specifically speced their shocks out to prevent the need of longer brake lines when runnign their leaf packs and would essentially assume a tremendous amount of liability if their kits pulled the rear lines out.

Considering the specifications of the 5100 shocks (front and back) and understanding the suspension one would easily be able to conclude longer lines are not needed. Those that would indicate otherwise simply just don't understand what they are talking about or are just going off of what he said/she said.

That said new & better lines can be beneficial depending on the condition of your old lines. Well they can actually be beneficial regardless since they are in most cases (depending on design/brand) more efficient.

 

I got mine from Wheelers Offroad because I wanted them... and if I ever get a hair in my ass to go over 4" of lift with suspension that allows for more downtravel than I currently have, brakes will already be done.

I agree with Salty, though... Definitely not NEEDED for my current setup.

 

Hey thanks for the reply guys. I might just get the uca now. Also I will probably wait like someone said to get the brake lines when I do a flush. I need to flush I have 100k and I also just want the stainless brake lines . The poster who said he had 887s then added trail armor and lost a lot of lift has me worried because I will be adding heavy front bumper and winch in the near future. Do you think I should reconsider and go with 886? I do want the full 3 inch lift though....

 

It depends on what armor you choose. I went with the All-Pro APEX Series front bumper with a center light hoop and the All-Pro APEX Series rear bumper with the tow hitch receiver and rear wrap-around armor plates.

The front bumper also meant that I had to swap out my factory skid plate for the matching All-Pro Steel one: Adding Even More Weight.

From their website:

Front Steel Bumper: 139-lbs
132-lbs + 7-lbs for center hoop

Front Steel Skid Plate: 54-lbs

Rear Steel Bumper: 146-lbs
Bumper—72.0 lbs.
Side Pieces— 36.0 lbs.
Receiver Hitch—32.0 lbs.

APEX Sliders:
Actual Weight not listed, guessing about 200-lbs

After I got it all on, with Line-X coating... my poor 887's were really squished and I had no choice but to upgrade as my 33's no longer came close to clearing. Remember that the 887 coils are just longer 885 coils and are rated at 590lbs. the 886's are rated for 70lbs more and are 2mm taller than the 887's, and I am unsure what the 886x's are rated at. (Check Page 131 of this pdf: http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/onlineManualsGuides/OME_Guide_current.pdf)

So you have some options, the All-Pro APEX Steel bumpers are some of the heaviest on the market. This means they're bulletproof, but it also means you need some serious springs to keep your front end up, especially over time.

Unfortunately I can't speak to which OME springs/shocks I chose as an upgrade because I went with the ICON Coilovers from Wheelers Offroad. They are rated at 40lbs more than the 886's, are pre-assembled, are fully rebuildable, have free shipping, and are fully adjustable so I Can dial the lift up or down in order to level my truck out as my build evolves. I wish I had gone with them in the first place, since I put my armor on at the same time I did my lift.

Edit: This is the set of coilovers I went with:

 

Those are sweet coil overs and would be around the same as the whole lift plus ucas lol but now you have me considering lol damn you

 

I would just go with 886s but honestly I want the pre assembled package with a full 3 inches of lift and if I did the 886 I wouldn't get 3 inches. If I could get coil overs for 900 I would be all over it lol

 

Wheelers Offroad will pre-assemble any coilover set you buy from them for 150 bucks.

If someone wants exactly 3" of lift and they don't want to go with top plates to get there(I don't blame them), then I recommend going with adjustable front coilovers... because that's where all of the variation comes in... and when you can just jack it up and adjust the height of the front with a spanner, you get a lot more control over your final lift.

I should point out that if you get the ICON coilovers I linked, you will definitely need aftermarket Uni-ball Upper Control Arms. I bought Total Chaos ones with my initial lift, from Wheelers Offroad.

 

Yeah I'm actually finding some cheaper adjustable coil overs
Like these fox 2.0 or some BOSS coilover or toytec/5100 coilover
https://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.co...ers-for-2005-up-Tacoma-FJ-4Runner_p_1163.html

Damn this fourm looks like I need to restart research for adjustable coil overs lol on a positive note I could just hold off on UCA and not crank the coilover up all the way...

 

Toytec will assemble the struts/coils for $100 and HeadStrong does the same for $90. Just throwing this out there. Its worth actually calling these comps and talking to them and getting their feedback and going from there.

With the Icons you only need UCAs if you decide to go with the extended travel COs, which only give you about 1" more down travel. They are basically the same COs as the standard length ones minus the internal limiter.

For those considering the OME coils/struts, the correct set-up with a front plate bumper and winch is the 886 coils and nitro charger 90000 shocks. This set-up was actually designed to properly support the weight of the ARB front bumper (ARB is the manufacturer of the OME product line) coupled with a winch. Oh and if you want to talk about a heavy bumper, the ARB bumper wins the competition. That and their R&D and quality is up there at the top.

 

Check out this thread, I've been getting most of my information about OME lifts from here since guys are posting pictures of what it looks like and what their set up is! Good luck
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/258245-old-man-emu-questions-answers-pictures.html