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Wheel studs are too short! What to do....

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by TexasTacoma37, Oct 24, 2010.

  1. Apr 2, 2014 at 10:34 AM
    #81
    Taco No Baka

    Taco No Baka Interco Tire Snob

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    Lee
    Tampa, FL
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    1998 SR5 Xtra Cab 4WD V6 Spartan Package
    OME 3" lift with Dakar rear leaves and 883 front coils. 36x12.50 Super Swamper TSL/SXs on Pro Comp Series 97 15x8 Steelies, Bud Built Front Skid, 4xI rock sliders, 4.88s and an Eaton True Trac LSD up front, 4.88s and a Detroit Locker in the rear, LED cab clearance lights, Sway Bar Delete, Rear Diff Breather Mod, Autometer Monster Tach, Cobra 25LTD Classic, Roof-mounted 3' Firestik Firefly, Garmin GPS, HiLift Jack, Flush-mount LED pod lights in rear bumper, 28" light bar in the front bumper, rear shock relocation (Ruff Stuff brackets), u-bolt flip with Ruff Stuff Anti-wrap perches, CBI rear frame reinforcements, 10" travel Bilstein 5125 rear shocks, heavy duty front crossmember made by Allenfab, Rear shock mounts/crossmember (for upper mounts), spring perches, frame plates, and front crossmember welded in by Allenfab, CBI Ditch Light Brackets, Ditch Light Pods. AllenFab Custom Hybrid front bumper and recovery points. Drivetrain lifted 2" in conjunction with a 2" BL. Modified Trail Gear transmission crossmember/skid. Warn Xeon 10K winch. Large left side body mod.
    I'm also running the Dorman ones, but mine seated just fine. What method did you use to press them in?

    Also, rather than remove the studs, why not just get deeper lug nuts, or ones with open ends? It's probably not a good thing to remove and replace the wheel studs too often as eventually the holes in the hub flange will get chewed up and work hardened causing potential cracks and/or they won't hold the studs tight like they should leading to possible broken studs and loose wheels.
     
    Taco1999 likes this.
  2. Apr 3, 2014 at 8:18 AM
    #82
    Wishbone Runner

    Wishbone Runner Because 4R

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    I used a lug nut and a big nut that fit over the stud, then torqued as far as I felt comfortable, which was way past the lug torque value. Agreed with you on removing them again, once I re-install the Dorman's and get them fully seated they will not be removed again, I will get another set of lugs, I wasn't prepared for that when I put the OEM wheels back on and had to get it on the road so that was the easiest/quickest option.
     
  3. Apr 3, 2014 at 10:03 AM
    #83
    Taco No Baka

    Taco No Baka Interco Tire Snob

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    1998 SR5 Xtra Cab 4WD V6 Spartan Package
    OME 3" lift with Dakar rear leaves and 883 front coils. 36x12.50 Super Swamper TSL/SXs on Pro Comp Series 97 15x8 Steelies, Bud Built Front Skid, 4xI rock sliders, 4.88s and an Eaton True Trac LSD up front, 4.88s and a Detroit Locker in the rear, LED cab clearance lights, Sway Bar Delete, Rear Diff Breather Mod, Autometer Monster Tach, Cobra 25LTD Classic, Roof-mounted 3' Firestik Firefly, Garmin GPS, HiLift Jack, Flush-mount LED pod lights in rear bumper, 28" light bar in the front bumper, rear shock relocation (Ruff Stuff brackets), u-bolt flip with Ruff Stuff Anti-wrap perches, CBI rear frame reinforcements, 10" travel Bilstein 5125 rear shocks, heavy duty front crossmember made by Allenfab, Rear shock mounts/crossmember (for upper mounts), spring perches, frame plates, and front crossmember welded in by Allenfab, CBI Ditch Light Brackets, Ditch Light Pods. AllenFab Custom Hybrid front bumper and recovery points. Drivetrain lifted 2" in conjunction with a 2" BL. Modified Trail Gear transmission crossmember/skid. Warn Xeon 10K winch. Large left side body mod.
    Hmm...same method I used. I did use a 1/2" drive impact to run them down as I was pretty confident my impact didn't have the stones to over torque them. Maybe that made the difference? If you have the same issue putting them back in, I'd try the balljoint press method described in another post to see if you can get them fully seated. If you don't have a balljoint press, you can get them for around $60 at Harbor Freight. They are useful for so much more than just balljoints. I keep mine in the truck in case I pop a U-joint out on the trail. They also work better than C-clamps since you can put more torque on them so they will press harder.
     
  4. Apr 3, 2014 at 11:24 AM
    #84
    Wishbone Runner

    Wishbone Runner Because 4R

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    Thanks, I will try that if I cannot get them in.
     
  5. Apr 26, 2014 at 9:13 AM
    #85
    Wishbone Runner

    Wishbone Runner Because 4R

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    Last edited: Apr 26, 2014
  6. May 27, 2014 at 5:55 PM
    #86
    Tbryson2

    Tbryson2 Well-Known Member

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    I recently acquired my first Tacoma. A 05 double cab Prerunner with only 86K miles! It has aluminum rims and I had to remove the wheel to fix a flat tire. I noticed how short the studs were, and asked the advice at a local fancy wheel and tire place and their opinion was that 5.5 turns on a lug nut "should be sufficient". I don't think so!

    With the wheels I have I cannot use E/T lugs because the holes for the studs are too small. So, I decided to extend my lugs. I was asked to do a presentation since I have a 2nd generation Tacoma and to show what is different than what has been presented. This section will be the front wheels, following with the rear wheels.

    I purchased my studs from www.wheeladapter.com/wheel_studs.php

    SAM_0605a_8ef63c400f15a9b5da3d6612cbc40433ed4f6d81.jpg
    The one on the left is what is shipped. The center one has been cut down for my needs, (reduced by 13mm) and the right one is the original.

    SAM_0607_6ce44dacae2ad2f1013b113cf2d117abaf7d566c.jpg
    This is the replacement just prior to being cut down.

    SAM_0609_fc6beb092964dccb23f67b4bd30e6f3490361477.jpg
    This is what I was dealing with having the original studs. 5.5 turns at best to ancohor my wheels to the truck.

    SAM_0610_457057ac0cc6642a1dd7f1e19a1c4f872d38d039.jpg
    This is what is left for "us" to work with using the original studs. Roughly 22mm from wheel to end of stud.

    SAM_0616_7a731282763af21e84de0bfd484746c0453ad0ba.jpg

    I wont go into how to remove the wheel / brake disk, brake calipers, but this is what your left with. (I've already replaced several studs in this photo.) Notice there is NO cutout, or a whole lot of room to work with the dust shield on. If your using the replacement stud (NOT trimming it down), you will need to at least loosen the Rotor Bearing Assembly. (see picture) If your trimming them down, (as I did) AND your trimming it down enough, then you don't have to loosen the Rotor Bearing Assembly and you can "load" the stud into the hole down at 6:00 position.

    SAM_0620_8428fcf1ebbcafa715d9c21a7e49f81928824fef.jpg

    Rotor Bearing Assembly loosened enough to insert stud. Be aware, there is an O-ring on the assembly.

    SAM_0622_56af6e3f72b4926b541d8592b6dbb7a60f7423f7.jpg
    MODIFIED stud being inserted in 6:00 position

    SAM_0624_479e465cf83dca678eafd7504bbc4be2a593a09b.jpg
    Now THAT's more like it! I know it does not seem like much, 30mm vs 22mm, but I'm getting 13 turns on my lug nuts whereas before I was getting 5.5 at best!

    SAM_0626_2a872609a706489f8bcacfd271ea3de4811ec7a8.jpg
    This is what my finished stud looks like with the wheel in place.

    It may (or may not) make a difference, but with my "precious cargo" in my truck, I sure do feel a LOT safer!
     
    Taco1999 and Biscuits like this.
  7. May 27, 2014 at 6:08 PM
    #87
    Tbryson2

    Tbryson2 Well-Known Member

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    Terry
    Central Florida
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    05 Tacoma Prerunner double cab rear wheel studs.

    SAM_0628_03278d5b45065c89d09f76f76e4baa3ada5f63bc.jpg

    As you can see, the original studs are the same length as the front studs. (I know the micrometer is offset in this picture, but the reading is accurate).

    If you are cutting down your studs (as I did) you should have enough room to insert them after you remove one of the springs on the brake assembly. There is no need to disassemble any of the shoes or other hardware. (I'm not so sure about this with "full length" studs, but there seemed to be enough room to move around without removing anything else).

    SAM_0633_ed28d3525fe7fe9b7ba3526795c9e2bbc71f53af.jpg

    After inserting my new (modified) studs and replacing the brake drum I still wound up with 30mm of useable studs.

    I chose 30mm as the final length of the "useable" stud because it allowed me to use my factory spare, and my locking lug nuts (which didn't have a whole lot of depth).

    Entire job took me pretty much the day because I was documenting everything and of course there was the obligatory "trial and error" period. ;)


    Any questions, PM me or reply to this thread.

    Terry
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2014
    drizzoh and Taco1999 like this.
  8. Oct 16, 2014 at 8:16 PM
    #88
    ragincajun35

    ragincajun35 Well-Known Member

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  9. Oct 18, 2014 at 2:38 PM
    #89
    BushBuggy

    BushBuggy Offroad Only

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    British Columbia
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    level-lift, cheap wheels, 285/75/16 Fierce Attitudes.
    Hi,

    Any one know of a stud that matches the rest of the 05 and up taco rear stud specs but has a knurl diameter larger than 0.58? I got stuck a long ways in the bush with 4 broken studs, got my hands on some that had too small of a knurl and then crushed washers in behind them to make them work because I had no choice. When I got to the nearest small town I managed to scrounge 3 slightly over-sized knurl(0.58) studs and felt slightly better about limping the 300km home. Now I want to replace all twelve on the rear axle and match up all thread patterns, nut sizes etc but I was hoping someone had a recommendation. Thanks!

    D
     
  10. Feb 2, 2015 at 8:22 PM
    #90
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    Used the same link terry. Not cheap though. WOW. Was expecting less than that. More like paying $20-$30 for some reason.
     
  11. Feb 2, 2015 at 8:43 PM
    #91
    Taco No Baka

    Taco No Baka Interco Tire Snob

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    1998 SR5 Xtra Cab 4WD V6 Spartan Package
    OME 3" lift with Dakar rear leaves and 883 front coils. 36x12.50 Super Swamper TSL/SXs on Pro Comp Series 97 15x8 Steelies, Bud Built Front Skid, 4xI rock sliders, 4.88s and an Eaton True Trac LSD up front, 4.88s and a Detroit Locker in the rear, LED cab clearance lights, Sway Bar Delete, Rear Diff Breather Mod, Autometer Monster Tach, Cobra 25LTD Classic, Roof-mounted 3' Firestik Firefly, Garmin GPS, HiLift Jack, Flush-mount LED pod lights in rear bumper, 28" light bar in the front bumper, rear shock relocation (Ruff Stuff brackets), u-bolt flip with Ruff Stuff Anti-wrap perches, CBI rear frame reinforcements, 10" travel Bilstein 5125 rear shocks, heavy duty front crossmember made by Allenfab, Rear shock mounts/crossmember (for upper mounts), spring perches, frame plates, and front crossmember welded in by Allenfab, CBI Ditch Light Brackets, Ditch Light Pods. AllenFab Custom Hybrid front bumper and recovery points. Drivetrain lifted 2" in conjunction with a 2" BL. Modified Trail Gear transmission crossmember/skid. Warn Xeon 10K winch. Large left side body mod.
  12. Feb 3, 2015 at 4:09 AM
    #92
    ragincajun35

    ragincajun35 Well-Known Member

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    I bought a set to do this and ended up just going back to a stock Toyota wheel. I have a set of 24 that I am willing to give to a Tacomaworld dude who will put them to good use. Just pay shopping and I'll send em to you. I am offshore right now but I'll be back by Thursday or so. Let me know if you want em.
     
  13. Feb 3, 2015 at 8:18 AM
    #93
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    Will take you up on this. Have to get in touch with these people now to take mine back.

    Thanks I really appreciate it.
     
  14. Feb 4, 2015 at 5:36 PM
    #94
    Tbryson2

    Tbryson2 Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps, but I saw them as (roughly) $2.66 each, not a bad price for a bolt that my life depends on. I read where others had good reviews of the seller, so I placed my order. I did not take the time to shop around, perhaps I could have picked up a set cheaper. :sadviolin:

    TB
     
  15. Feb 17, 2015 at 6:42 PM
    #95
    ragincajun35

    ragincajun35 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry its taking so long to get back to you.... so I called USPS and they are starting a claim on it so hopefully they will get back to me in a timely manner. Ill let you know but if they can find the package then .... i don't low what to say :(
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2015
  16. Feb 17, 2015 at 7:46 PM
    #96
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    No stress man. I'm not upset over it. Use the pic ii got to you as the proof for them. Really appreciate the effort.
     
  17. Feb 17, 2015 at 8:13 PM
    #97
    ragincajun35

    ragincajun35 Well-Known Member

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    Yea Ill have to email them that picture bc according to the tracking number you received the package.... which you did ...... with no content in it. We will try to get it worked out. I think there is a slim chance that they will be able to locate the studs though
     
  18. Feb 17, 2015 at 8:17 PM
    #98
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    No stress, there is a complimentary insurance on each flat rate box of $50 I believe. You could atlas recoup the shipping cost and loss of merchandise.

    Check PM
     
  19. Sep 28, 2015 at 8:44 PM
    #99
    Benson X

    Benson X My build thread sucks...

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  20. Dec 9, 2015 at 8:49 PM
    #100
    Taco_Kid

    Taco_Kid Well-Known Member

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    the taco should be 14.2mm (.559") knurl. how are you fitting .580" knurls ??

    dorman has a few 559's, a 560 might squish in there. ARP shows kit 100-7715 as .558" knurl.

    dorman 610-266 or 610-462
     

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