2004 Tacoma Maintenance catch up

I'm new to the Tacoma World forum as a member but I have spent a lot of time reading some of the threads here but I couldn't find threads for everything that I have questions about.

So here's the run down of my truck:
2004 Tacoma Base 4x4 Reg Cab 194k miles, bought it with 162k
2.7L 3RZ-FE, nothing special, only mod is a Taylor Cable Helix TB spacer
Manual trans
235/75-15 Firestone Destination A/T with Cragar bullet hole wheels

Here are the questions I have:
Should I have the valves adjusted on my truck? I don't know if they have ever been adjusted and there seems to be quite a bit of clatter in the head when the engine revs (listening while standing outside the truck, revving the truck manually). I have read that a lot of Tacomas need the valves adjusted regularly but I am planning on having it done regardless. I would just like to have a second opinion.

To my knowledge, neither the trans fluid nor the front/rear diff fluids have ever been changed. I have experienced the "gear shock" situations in old dirt bikes and I have read conflicting opinions on whether or not it would cause anything to seize if I changed them should the case be that they have never been changed. Does anyone have any suggestions for whether or not to change the fluids, and if so, what brand oil(s) would you recommend? I had planned on using Amsoil if I went through with it.

How big of an undertaking is it to swap the water pump myself? I am mechanically inclined and I do most of my maintenance, but I am used to SBC engines which are cake to work on. I looked for a thread regarding this but I was unable to find one.


Sorry for the wall of text! Any suggestions or comments are welcome and appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Welcome to TW. I am not an expert on the 3RZ, but I imagine it wouldn't be very difficult to check the valve clearance yourself and adjust if necessary. I'll let someone else chime in about the water pump as well, I don't think it would be very difficult but there might be a trick to it that I don't know about.

I also don't run a manual transmission, but many people seem to have good results from changing the trans fluid to a synthetic such as Redline MT-90. I would definitely change the differentials as well, the particle buildup in the fluid will increase wear on the gears over time. I run Mobil1 75-90 gear oil, and change it every 50k miles or so - I've had no problems.

 

Thank you for your response. I don't have much experience in valves and adjustments. I have tried to look into what it would take to do it myself. I was quoted about $250 for a shop to do it.

So you don't think there would be any adverse effects to changing the fluids in the differentials and the trans fluid even though they have never been changed? A friend of mine used to have an old Kawasaki KX65 dirt bike and he had never changed it. We swapped the oil and it seized. So I'm a bit skittish to change them even though I know it needs it.

 

I would definitely do the differentials. That will only do your gears some good, and you'll be able to check the fluid to see if there any large metal particles.

I think most manual transmissions go their entire lives without having the fluid changed - it doesn't seem to be an issue. I have never heard of a manual having problems due to a fluid change - with automatics it's recommended not to "power flush" the transmission if it's high mileage but just a drain and refill is fine.

 

You should find these helpful:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/174329-2001-toyota-scheduled-maintenance-guide.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...y-how-thread-compiled-list-helpful-links.html

Change your diffs and manual transmission oil every 30k miles.

 

First, I apologize for just now getting back to you guys. I have been busy with classes.

drr-- Thanks for your input. I will definitely change the diffs. I am still undecided about the trans fluid change.

scocar-- I checked the maintenance schedule link but I was unable to find anything pertinent other than the schedule. The helpful links post is a good resource that I have often plundered, but I was unable to find any sort of specs as far as how much of each fluid I need. Any advice as far as that goes?

 

Does your truck have a user manual in it? It's all in there. I don't have all the specs and capacities at my finger tips (at the moment ) and don't want to steer you wrong.

If you look at the how-to links, most will specify quantities, I believe.

 

Unfortunately, no user manual. In the how-to, the Trans is for 2nd Gen I believe. Will they be the same? Also, for the rear diff, how can I be sure whether or not I have a LSD? I know there isn't a LSD tag on the rear end but how can I be sure it just didn't come off?

 

Tranny in N, 1 wheel in the air and 1 wheel on the ground. Spin by hand. If it spins free no matter how fast it's open. If it gets harder and harder to spin, lsd. If it doesn't spin at all, locker. With it being a base model 99.99999999999999999999999% of them will be open diffs. *Most* vehicles will go their entire lives and never see a fluid change.

*most* 2.7l will never see a valve adjustment either. TBH I'm not sure how adjustable they are compared to other engines.

You don't need to worry about the tranny fluid, it's not a fluid to start with. They use gear oil in them, no pumps/filters etc, it just gets flung around by the gears.

The last time I was in a diff I used royal purple synthetic. My car has a lsd in it, the RP is not supposed to need additives for them. So far it has worked well, but again tbh odds are the stuff in it was working just as well. It's just hard to change an axle shaft without losing all the fluid. I've never seen a need to join the amsoil cult.

 

Ok great. I'll get it checked out. Thanks!

 

I wouldn't bother with the Royal Purple cult either.

 

Royal Purple seems like a gimmick to me. $20 for a quart of 10w-40 motor oil? Come on now. My grandpa ran Pennzoil dino oil in his GMC Sierra from '96 to '07, put 427k on it without ever tearing into the engine. So I don't buy it.

 

Yeah, I just use the Valvoline or Castrol non-synth in the diffs. Consider the exposure (water crossing, mud, etc.), plug corrosion/seizure, and maint. interval, and I think it makes sense to use dino and change at the standard interval.

In the manual tranny, however, I prefer to use Redline MT90 full synth.

And I just started using Pennzoil Ultra in the engine. It has proven to maintain viscosity better than Mobile 1 in Blackstone testing by another member and me. I was surpriesd how quickly Mobile 1 fell below viscosity limits at even 5500 miles.

BTW, Walmart has the best prices on motor oil, at least locally.

 

I think I am going to try the Redline in my trans. I'm still undecided about the diffs. I

I buy all of my motor oil at Walmart. I can get the 5 quarts of Pennz and Engine Restore for the same price as the 5 quarts alone at the parts store.

 

Valves should probably be adjusted.

I'd remove the TB spacer. It's hurting more than it's helping.

As far as diff oil just run anything you can get your hands on. It's going to be a major step up over what's in it now. I personally just run Castrol synthetic 75-90.

If you are going to do the water pump, you might as well replace the timing belt too. Hit two birds with one stone.

 

No timing belt on the 2.7 is there? Pretty sure it's a chain.

 

You shouldn't have any problem working on your truck if you are already mechanically inclined. First gens are still pretty shade tree mechanic friendly and have a simple layout under the hood. You can download a service manual off the internet or buy one at your Yoter dealership and it will tell you everything you need to know. The owner's manual is useless for service work though.

 

Sorry for just getting back to you guys. I appreciate the response. I've been covered up in work trying to finish up the semester here at school.

drr-- I think I am going to get a shop to do the valve adjustment for me. I watched the videos in the sticky about checking the valves and shimming them and I don't feel comfortable pulling the cams to do the adjustment. I've never dealt with dual cams and it's the only vehicle I have so I can't really afford to screw up.

thunderone-- I'm definitely getting the valves done soon. Why exactly is the TB spacer hurting more than helping? When I first put it on, I saw 1-2 MPG increase which was really the goal. I understand that it is supposed to compress air as sort of a poor man's forced induction but why would that be hurting my performance?

2004TacomaSR5-- I will be getting a service manual in the near future, maybe that will clear up a lot of my issues. Thanks for the advice!

 

Just thought I'd chime in with my own recent experience.

Its easy to just check the valve clearances, about the same process as the old 22R/E. But, because of the shim/bucket type setup, its hard to adjust, as you found out. I checked mine and the exhaust valves were all out (too tight). This can cause burnt valves. I got a $800 estimate from the local dealer. Took it to an independent shop in town, and they did it for $400. $250 sounds too good to be true. Part of the process is ordering a replacement shim (about $10 each) for those valves that are out of spec.

Even though all the exhaust valves were out of spec, my motor was quiet. So, I would not assume that the valves are causing the noise. Check the clearances yourself, first.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the advice Rick. How would I go about checking them? What would you recommend I check for the loud clatter? I thought it could be the timing chain smacking against the cover or something along those lines. Would that mean the timing chain is stretched? I'm afraid I would have to pay someone to do that as well if that has to be done. I feel confident in my ability to do repairs but I would rather not chance messing up my timing. I honestly don't have a lot of money to pay a shop. I'm in college and I have some money saved up for things like this but not $1000+.

I did some research into the timing chain and the consensus (at ) seems to be that it's a long life component that doesn't need to be replaced until it starts rubbing the housing. I don't really know the service history of the truck but I've only put 34k on it since I bought it in October '13, currently at 196k. So maybe its worth the time and money to have a shop do valve adjustment (if needed), timing chain, and water pump for 200k maintenance?