KTP-445U Install above the Glove box

Were you able to mount it here without extending the wires that came with it?
Did you use the Metra or Scosche wiring harnesses?
Did you power it by wiring it to the factory head unit wiring?
Thanks!

1. I had 2 harnesses https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064J4LOM/

and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/

and the Metra Axxess harness for the steering wheel controls (discontinued?)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039H2W66/

I soldered some connections but one issue I had is the left woofer connector for the + came loose from the speaker and started making intermittent contact. I fixed it last week but really need to solder a new post connector to it but I was too lazy to run the extension cord out to the truck to solder last week..So i crimped it hard and used some electrical tape. Next time It messes up I'll fix it.
2. There was enough wiring, but I used the RCA's to connect the out of the stereo into the power pack (I tried direct wiring and it didn't work correctly) and the output of the power pack wired with posi connectors to the harness that plugged right into the toyota wiring. I then ran new speaker wires from the radio to the crossovers through the dash (hidden) and then from the crossovers through the door boot channel flexy thing to the speakers. I bridged it so it's 2x power, 90w x2 channels because I don't use the rear channels in the access cab as those are just crap speakers in the healiner.
3. I wired it through the factory headunit power. I've had no issues with fuses etc as it's rated for this type of use. The only thing to really watch out for is wiring up the 'remote' wire correctly. If i recall there is a power antenna wire that you DON'T connect to anything that was very similar looking to the remote wire. The remote goes from the head unit to the power pack. There is then a remote wire OUT of the power pack that connects to nothing...you would connect that daisy chain to a second amp for a sub or what not.
4. The sound from the unit is great, but my Polk MM 6501's scream for more power. The Kenwood radio https://www.crutchfield.com/S-x49rRuPUR52/p_113BT555U/Kenwood-KDC-BT555U.html I have goes up to 35. Before the amp I had it at 35 with factory speakers while driving on the highway with windows down and I could barely hear anything and there was distortion and no bass when you turned it up passed about 26. It was like the factory speakers had a cut off or something. Now with the bridged amp 20 is normal/loud listening. 25 is significantly louder and the highest you can turn it without getting clipping on bass heavy or high bit rate mp3's. I can turn it up to 30 on podcasts or music that is lower bit rate or light on bass. So metallica is about a 25 to 27 and then some songs will start it clipping and then the sound goes dead and I have to put the radio into standby for a second and then back on and they reset. I can turn the bass down and it won't happen as much but why do that? It becomes a delicate balancing act between the demand and power provided to the speakers. It's basically that there isn't enough power for the speakers but really there is no human need for it to be louder than it goes
5 THE BANE OF MY LISTENING is the window control panels in the doors. They are a modular piece that snaps in from the top. They vibrate like crazy with bass. I folded up tiny pieces of paper and shimmed them in there when I snapped the piece back in and that got rid of a lot of vibrations...But there is still something somewhere in the passenger door that vibrates with heavy bass that's hard to locate and drives me batty.