Re-gear writeup

After reading around a doing a lot of research I ordered up 4.56 Nitro gears from Chase at ECGS. I had two thirds waiting for an install before too long and I was eager to tear into it. I gave myself a weekend and assembled some parts and tools.

I more or less followed Dave's pictures and Chase's write up.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/31071-Help-Needed-with-Gear-Install! I started with the rear, figuring it to be the easiest. I had read that it's possible to pull the 3rd, without unbolting brake lines, thus not needing to bleed the system after. This indeed is true. I started by chocking both front tires in both directions and jacking the truck up. With jack stands under each side of the rear axle I unbolted the driveline (it's easiest to do in neutral with the e-brake off), undid all the clamps on the brake hard lines (5), drained the gear oil from the diff, unbolted the e-brake cables from the leaf packs, unplugged the abs sensors, and then began to take off all the nuts from the 3rd member. I then pried the e-locker motor housing off the 3rd and undid the other electrical connection on the 3rd. Lastly I unbolted the drive shafts (4 14mm bolts per side) and pulled them out as far as the hard lines would allow (they will flex and bend some, I suggest unbolting the lines if this concerns you -10mm flare wrench). What I never saw anywhere was that in order for the 3rd to come out you may have to push the e-locker shift fork to the left (locked), or towards the gears. I couldn't get it out until I realized that.

I got the 3rd out and then you need to clean off the surfaces of the housing and your new 3rd and swap over a sensor from one to the other - pretty obvious when you see it. I picked up a new gasket from Toyota and per the FSM applied a small bead of RTV on the housing, then applied the gasket, then applied another bead of RTV. In order to be able to lock/unlock your rear, when you install the new 3rd, make sure the shift fork is all the way to the right - unlocked, or your new 3rd will be permanently locked and you will need to pull the 3rd and correct the issue.

Assemble and tighten everything to the proper torque. Fill with gear oil.

I then started on the front. We removed the skid. Then I attempted to remove the tie rod ends. I basically ruined the castle nuts on both sides (though saved the threads) with a BFH. A tie rod puller would probably be easier. Moved on to the spindle/hub cap. Had to try a couple different screw drivers here, probably be easiest just to grind one down to a thinner edge so you can drive it between the cap and hub with a hammer. Work your way around the cap and it will come free eventually. Remove the axle nut, 35mm seemed PERFECT. Pull the sway bar links, these have an allen slot at the end of the studs. Undo the knuckle from the lca. Then you can pop the axle out, I used a tire spoon... a pry bar would also work, I didn't have a large enough one. Pull the CV shaft out. Do this to each side. Unbolt the bracket to the ADD, and unplug the harness. Loosen the two mounting bolts and the hex bolt but dont remove the diff. You'll need to unbolt the diff breather and vacuum line retainer bracket before you can drop the diff. After you get this off it's not so difficult to remove the diff, but it's a two man job IMO.


ONCE you have your diff out, it's a matter of swapping over parts to the new third until you see that you have to swap over a gear. Dave lightly touched this and Chase made no mention that I could see. We ended up pulling the clam shell apart and popped the gear out from the bottom with a non gauging non marking tire spoon. You will also have to pry out some sort of dust boot. Toyota suggests SSTs to do both. I pried out a dust seal, carefully so as not to damage. Of course I bent it a little so I flattened it out and honestly I couldn't remember how it was oriented in the old housing so I just stuck it in the new housing as such in my picture. Don't know if there is a specified way, can't see why there would be but... one never knows. The gear basically just seats down inside, I tapped it in with a rubber mallet. I then added a bit of RTV to the axle tube and bolted it back together.

Getting it back in is the reversal of course. You need to bolt the brackets back in place and re-connect the lines and electrical connections. It's a bit of a pita, but they will come together. Then tighten the diff mounts, insert your cvs (should probably check the condition of everything while you have it apart), and bolt your driveshaft, knuckles, and axles back together. Replace your dust caps and put your wheels/tires on.

That's pretty much it.


If anything is unclear or anyone has any questions feel free to PM me or ask here.




Edit:

These are better.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/179500-re-gear-writeup-2.html#post4220408
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/179500-re-gear-writeup-2.html#post4220454
the more the better anyhow!

A great write up by MokeyProof

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...removal-installation-e-locker-3rd-member.html


Somewhat related:

How to repair the front ADD
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...-differntial-actuator-repair-replacement.html

 

x2

I was just looking for some info..the other two links are helpful as well..thanks

 

Nice writeup Max.
Where are you going to test it?

 

Eh, hand is broke so I've been driving a civic.

Also, alignment is screwy because I need to replace my LR UCA. Also...I'm fairly sure I warped the flange on my axle shaft, somehow... I noticed that after swapping 3rds.

Anyway, rides nice on the road. I'll give it a go in the snow here soon, when I get this shit squared away.

You have to swap over a sensor and the actuator. After you undo the nuts, it pretty much just pries off, but it's tight. Be careful, as the housing is aluminum and you can crack it. When you go to put it back on, mind the rubber o-ring and it just kind of presses back on.

 

Here is a bit I posted elsewhere.

 

So...diff swap writeup more than regear writeup, yes?

I would also argue 4.10 is still too high for 33s, 4.56 is where you wanna be if you're an automatic. You are then all set to be overgeared at 33/34", or back to stock ratios for 35s. Very flexible ratio.

Aren't the 6-speeds 4.10 from factory?

 

Right, I knew they were geared lower in the trannies, thought the final drive was lower too, but I guess that's just the 4cyls.

1st schmerst. Regear to 4.56 + crawlbox is whatcha want for some crawlin'....(give me time...)

 

Boner subbed!

 

Nice write up

 

Yeah I suppose you could call it that. A writeup for setting up gears wouldn't be very useful to most, as most would still want someone else to do it.

I figured I re-geared and this is the write up for what I did.

 

Thanks guys, hope it's useful.

 

You can see the shift fork there. On the new third it seemed really tight so I worked it back and forth a lot and had to kind of pry on it a few times. The factory 3rd wasn't sloppy but was much more loose.

You can see where the motor/actuator mount, and on the bottom there is a sensor with a crush washer you need to swap over.

It's pretty obvious what you need to do.

A word of caution, be careful prying the actuator off. I found a few small cracks in mine and so I smeared RTV on them.

 

Yeah, no real plans for an FJ t-case for me, I have no need for the twin sticks, will just use the crawler to go into 2Lo. Add the locker-anytime mod and ding.

Also saves some cost. May opt instead to go with an inchworm case though so I can get that hot flat belly.

Figuring all that out. Re-gearing with tax-return this year, then crawler when money shows up after that.

 

These are better.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/135414-3rd-member-swap.html
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/135415-clamshell-swap.html

the more the better anyhow!

 

good info

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...-differntial-actuator-repair-replacement.html

 

A great write up by MokeyProof

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...removal-installation-e-locker-3rd-member.html

 

Courtesy of Istambull

 

Courtesy of Istambull on the FJcruiserforums