Spiffy exhaust thing

Hello everyone. I saw some guy selling this here a few weeks ago and I caught me eye.

http://urdusa.com/store/Exhaust-&-H...93_125/p1260518640/89227-Doug-Thorley-Tacoma-"Pipe-Bomb"-Y-Pipe-2005+-V6/product_info.html

We are having problem in our area where jerks are stealing catalytic converters. My solution was to remove them! Here in California one does need to "smog" their cars every two years so it would be easy to blot the cats back in!

Here is my question. Does anyone have this system? Does it throw a check engine light at you if it is bolted in?

 

Isn't the O2 sensor in front of the cats negating a system code getting thrown? I'm posing that as a question as well since I don't know either.

 

You will have a code set from both the pre and post cat O2 sensors.

 

My URD Y-pipe should be getting here tomorrow for my 2014 Taco. Im super pumped! It will not throw a code because the O2 sensors, those little buggers that throw codes just cause they can, only monitor the health of the front CATs. This Y-pipe eliminates the rear CATs, which the O2 sensors cant even see. All good. There are no post CAT sensors.

 

Didn't even know their was a second set of sensors. Thanks for the heads up.

 

These do not exist.

 

And... I'm more confused than when I stumbled into the room.

 

Lol... so your engine dumps exhaust into your headers. Your headers dump into your front CATs, which feed into your rear CATs. Between the front and rear CATs you have your O2 sensors. Because the exhaust is flowing to the rear, these sensors can only pick up on whats leaving the front CATs and have no idea what leaves the rear CATs. After the rear CATs you have the rest of your exhaust pipe, muffler, and exhaust tip. No sensors back there.

 

There are 4 sensors in the 4.0 exhaust stream. The ones on the manifolds (in front of the first set of cats) are your AFR sensors. The O2 sensors are located in the y-pipe after the first sets of cats. (one on driver side, one on passenger side).

The link you gave doesn't work for me. If the part you are interested in is after the o2 sensors, you should be fine.

 

I do not understand why you are worried about smog yet if you are the original owner. With a vehicle as new as mine, you wont be due for a smog until 2020 if you are the original owner 2018 if you are a second owner.

 

I am not concerned about smog, just the check engine light.

 

Thanks for the schoolin'. Serves me right for spending all my time reading early 90's Land Cruiser manuals and refreshing the ship tracker website.

 

Straight from URD's website:
The URD Competition Y Pipe does include ports for the rear O2 sensors. It will not cause a check engine light from elimination of the rear catalytic converters. On the 1GR-FE engine the rear O2 sensors are installed between the front and rear catalytic converters and they only monitor the health of the front set of catalytic converters. You will not need a rear O2 simulator to run this competition Y pipe.

 

Got my URD Y-pipe in the mail today!!! Uber excited, but then I realized that I was missing the crush clamp. Gotta call URD tomorrow...

 

Bummer . Where is SoCa are you? I would love to hear that system before I buy it!

 

San Diego. Ill attempt to post a vid of the before and after, but gopro sound is only so good.

 

You won't be adding cats back into this at all. This is the URD competition Y-pipe. Not sure why they use such a crappy picture of something else on the website, it looks nothing like the actual product

 

Wow. Thanks for the photo. It answers a lot of questions. The O2 sensors are BEFORE the cats, but I only see one bung on the new unit for the passenger side sensor. Is the one on the frives side just hidden in this shot?

When do you plan your installation? I would ve curious if your check engine light came on! Please let me know. It is worth a pint of beer!

 

I put it on right after the picture. The sensors(on both sides, It's just hidden in the pic.) in the Y-pipe are flow sensors, so no check engine lights or issues with O2 because nothing is changed before those. The flow sensors detect reduced flow from clogged cats and you have better flow with the y-pipe. I really don't understand the factory heat shield on just one side and there was brace around it that had to be removed? Maybe just to deter people from removing it?
The little goes on first, then fish it through the passenger side and turn it to get the drivers side lined up. The passenger side is routed the same as stock, but the drivers side comes down and across under the transmission pan which keeps the pipe higher than the stock one where you can see the "crushed" part the went back and under the cross member which is much lower(probably close to the lowest hanging part under there).
Keys to installing:
Buy the gaskets with the pipe, they are the thick teflon type instead of the factory crush type, so a better seal and less likely to leak. The gasket kit does NOT come with the gasket between y-pipe and the exhaust piping going to the muffler, so get one of those depending on what you have behind the y-pipe.( I have the flowmaster which is 2 1/2 pipe and the factory donut was a little too small and leaked, so I got a vibrant Teflon 2 1/2, which is dirt cheap). The Toyota dealer wanted $30 for the factory donut, which is so crappy you MUST replace and was a waste of money.
Drill out the flange holes that go to the exhaust manifold to 1/2". mine wouldn't fit over the studs without a little "help" and then it was so tight I had no wiggle to get the rest of the exhaust together, so off it came for some drilling.
Soap or oil the crap out of both holes in the 1 hanger rubber you reuse as it will be a pain to get back on AFTER you piece everything together and get all the bolts STARTED, not tightened. You'll never get it on first unless you have the whole rear exhaust off, as there isn't much give.
when you first open it and lay them beside each other the URD pipe looks so much larger, it looks like it would never fit(the picture doesn't really so the size difference as well).
I couldn't give you a good estimate of time, because I'm a paraplegic and everything takes me forever since I have no use of my legs and getting around to work on things can be a challenge at times. Everything I know now after doing it, easily less than an hour for a normal person. I also have it jacked up really high to accommodate me being under it and my limited movement, so that helps a lot.

 

I have the stock muffler, any ideas how this would sound?