BAMF 2nd Gen and 3rd gen rear shock relocation kit.

I wouldn't do it you want a shock with a spherical bearing not a bushing or you will get binding At the mounts. You can get shocks without a remote resi that have spherical bearings.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I am still learning about the suspension. So the fox and kings of the world have spherical bearings at the mounts to allow for flex?

 

Keeping an eye on this kit. Would be nice to compile a list of shock/leaf combo everyone is running with this relocate. That way people will know what works and what doesnt.

 

Any major benefits between 2.5 over 2.0 smoothie kings?

 

Basically the benefit of 2.5s vs 2.0s is that they can make more force and they won't heat up as quickly. The 2.0s should be fine if your only going to be crawling and/or daily driving. Really anything beyond or faster than that, the 2.5s will be better.

 

Some dirt roads and basic crawling is all I do, rather have the clearance for 35's, thanks for the input, figure with new leafs and Kings 2.0 iam gonna have a huge difference, should be good enough for years to come

 

Ya it sounds like you should be fine then.

 

2.0's are fine, I did some fast stuff out in the desert with 2.0's and after a good hour of fast running we took a break...shocks were pretty damn hot at that point, but I wouldn't say dangerously hot.

 

One of those times it woulda been nice to have a laser thermometer huh? And I don't foresee too much desert running, I'll be armored down, i'm gonna go for the adjustable resi's also, I should be OK, jus need to decide on Weld on shock end or standard aluminum

 

I highly recommend the adjustable resi's. they make life alot easier depending on terrain. Shit even when I had to haul some stuff in the bed once, I started pounding bump stops, got out and cranked up the compression and suddenly it was smooth as butter!

Decide on what now?

 

The end of the shock there are 4 options for the ball end, where it bolts to the axle, there's the alum end with the ball bearing and like 3-4 diff end lengths or a solid steel Weld on end... Which I never seen till I looked at the options last night

 

Ahhh, theres nothing wrong with the Alum head. In fact, Jason @Speed Freek put my lower shock mounts almost level with the axle, so I didn't have to worry as much about banging my shocks off of stuff.

 

Figure since it's gonna be near rocks it wouldn't be bad to consider... But the lower mount will have to be opened wider it looks

 

There isn't really a difference between the two rod ends in terms of durability. The only difference will be the eye to eye length of the shock fully compressed and extended. If you get a longer rod-end, your going to have lest stroke if your eye to eye distance is the same. the longer rod-ends are mainly for clearance issues which you should not have a problem with.

 

I have installed 8 RSL kits and all have used Alum standard ones on all of them without problems

 

2.0's get bashed around here a lot. People down talk them like they are so much less inferior than 2.5's. Fact of the matter is that 2.0's with remotes are the equal to a 2.5 without a reservoir and can hold their own to some serious abuse before fading. A lot of people have 2.5's with remotes and never even use them to 25% their capacity around here even when they wheel.

 

This, all the way. I was running Jerry's kit with a 2.0 12" Fox shock with remote resis and CDC's and I don't think I ever really got those things into serious shock fade. If you guys want to put 2.5's in there with or without remote resi's, feel free, its a bit overkill for what 99% of people here are going to need, but some people just want to 2.5s for peace of mind or just to say they have them lol.

If you're someone like Roberto here who is pushing his truck to the limit, then you want as much shock as you can get...but if you like going on fun trails and occasionally going out to the desert for a little fun....2.0's are fine.

Now...the front end is another story...I was running 2.0 foxes and I really feel like you should only run 2.5's on the front (unless dual shocks), but that's neither here nor there.

 

"Dual shocks"



As for me, I actually run reservoir 2.0's all around, everything from the 6 shocks I have and the air bump stops as well. The setup works very well for what I like to do. You might think that with a setup like mine, it makes the truck lose its drivability on the street. Well that assumption is wrong. It is actually very streetable and if anyone local doesn't believe, you can feel free to swing by my place any time and we can go for a spin! I still am playing around with the rear shock tuning to try to keep the bed from dumping down on hard landings/impacts/ whatever you want to call it, but my front end is definitely happy as is the rear for the most part. If 2.0's are plenty for my high speed play setup (given if you aren't a rock crawler because that's a whole different world) then they should be more then enough for all of you. Unless you run an overland style setup with a huge bed cage loaded down in the back.

 

Yea, I found that single 2.0's up front heat up quick. After about an hour of fun in the desert I was flicking water on my resis and it was sizzling off lol. The rears were hot but not THAT bad. I just think there's to much weight up front for 2.0's to really handle, for the fast stuff.

 

Just because they sizzled water does not make them anywhere near as hot as you think. I have had my fun with them and have gotten them hot, but have not experienced fade with them. A lot of it depends on how much armor you are rocking on the vehicle too. Mine is mild so there isn't as much weight to make the shocks lose their cool as quick.