A/C mod for cooler air

I have a 2011 and have never been happy with my a/c temperature, it isn't as cold as other peoples new vehicles (brothers 2015 Taco, friend's 2014 Rav4). So I checked the coolant level and while it was a little low, it was within the operating range. After reading of others successes from other car forums, I decided to try the foam insulation. Our Tacoma's have a lot of exposed/uninsulated a/c line from the compressor to the inside of the cab (6 feet). I used the foam insulation from home depot and some zip ties. Cost me ~6$ and I noticed a substantial decrease in temperature and it gets colder faster! Suggest this mod to everyone.

 

Cool. I've got a bunch of foam laying around I may have to give it a try.

 

Let us know how that stuff holds up in the engine compartment. As far as I know, polyethylene pipe insulation isn't rated for high temperature exposure, where "high" is above 180F. I'm guessing that area gets hotter than 180.

 

Hmm... my 2011 has never had an issue. Blows cold even when stopped in traffic in the Caribbean

 

Curious as well how long this will last in the bay. I'd like to try it next time I run to Lowe's.

 

To protect the foam, one could wrap it with heat shield tape.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N1808_-1_-1&pt=N1808&ppt=C0379

 

I have read on other car forums of people using that heat shield tape. So far no problem.

 

Think I will do this. Should have done it with my last car, but didn't know that I could. I'm not sure how my Taco does since I haven't had it during a summer yet. Seems OK on some of the warmer days we have had here.

 

Great post...Sticky???

 

I wonder if this would work on a 1st gen in any way, my ac sucks.

 

This. You can order automotive versions online that can withstand the heat. I used to wrap my intake tubes with this foam and once summer was over it was time to replace it. Well over 180 under the hood here in Az during July/August.

 

I'm guessing the worst that would happen is a bit of deformation. Products like Armaflex are designed for industrial and building applications so are ASTM E84 rated for flame spread and smoke. But that may mean even though it's difficult to burn it might end up melted all over the road and engine compartment

 

sweet post, ill be doing this for sure

 

I agree it is a good idea and one that I have used in the past. How much temperature drop did you gain when checked with a thermometer?

 

It's more likely you're a little low on freon and need it checked/adjusted. If the freon is low, insulating the return pipe as you did will help. However with a fully charged system you have to be careful not to allow any liquid refrigerant back to the compressor and any excess liquid will tend to 'boil' off in the uninsulated large pipes.
Just a consideration.

 

A fully charged system does not put your compressor in greater danger because of liquid refrigerant getting to the compressor. Over charged, yes, but not fully charged. If there is any liquid entering the suction side return lines there is a problem with the metering system and the system needs to be inspected and the problem fixed. The return lines is where the insulation should be so that the cold refrigerant, gas, does not take on any more latent heat as it travels to the compressor. Most automotive return hoses are heavily insulated by design, unlike residential unit return lines, to keep this from happening but more insulation will not hurt. You want the returning gas as cool as possible to help cool the compressor.

On the high side, the lines going to the evaporator, you normally do not want any insulation on those lines so that any extra heat can still escape as the liquid refrigerant travels to the evaporator, but on a vehicle because the lines are under the hood and the heat from the engine can cause engine heat to be added to the condensed, liquid, refrigerant it is advisable to rap them also.

 

It may help some, but this is not your main problem. Your main problem is somewhere in the system not working properly. A valve is not working as it should, or too high or too low refrigerant, wrong kind of refrigerant, too much oil in the system, moisture in the system, a warn compressor not doing its job properly, or a partially clogged condenser, but you should not get warm air just because you are idling.

 

May I point out something about refrigerant. Not all refrigerant is equal. Different refrigerants have different boiling points and the colder the boiling point the better cooling as long as the system can condense the refrigerant properly. I suggest that this be read up on and then each can decide if they want to change refrigerants.
http://www.es-refrigerants.com/products/Default.asp?id=14&t=refrigerant&Trying=ON

http://autorefrigerants.com/hydroca...1974-why-enviro-safe-hydrocarbon-refrigerants

http://autorefrigerants.com/hydrocarbon-refrigerants-info

http://www.es-refrigerants.com/products/w/id/461/t/r134a-replacement-refrigerant-1065/details.asp

 

subd