Long Travel BS Thread

I am fishing for pics of my old set up here are some examples just from google images sorry for the crappy pics I am using my iPad and this is the best I can do right now. You can see the clamp at the tie rods end but you can't see the mount inside the frame above the inner. As I stated previously though in my experience this set up tore my inner boots. I ended up using my own mount out in front of the steering rack cross member.

 

With IFS and a steering rack with separate steering rods going to each spindle how are you going to run just one in the middle ?

 

Why not do it from the inner tie rods?

 

Go lay under a second gen and stare at it for a while...sketch that on a bar napkin and keep drinking until you can figure it out...then share the sketch with us so we can all run out and do it if you figure it out

I can't envision how you could pull that off honestly ?

 

This will do nothing to prolong rack life. Racks that split is caused by flex and movement in the housing. Limit your travel, tire size and stay off the trail and the racks will last forever. In other words, stop driving lol.

 

Use something like this



Put a rod end on the other side and clamp the body to the subframe above the rack. Connect end end to custom hiemed tierods.

 

Holy shit where do i get that?

 

Sway bar delete on a 2p14 dclb any different or harder to do then any other year haven't looked at it yet just curious what tools needed to take them off off and about how long does it take to do

 

No idea got it from Google. Just seen them before and have though about it.

14mm and 17mm sockets, 4'' extension and an impact (air or electric). Takes 5 minutes. Pull the front skid and the cross member braces, undo the sway bar end links from the spindles and undo the sway bar clamps from the frame and it's off.

 

Well thank you I'm installing my LT kit this weekend and figured I'd take then off while I was down there

 

I can only speak for myself but it had nothing to do with trying to save my rack it was strictly about steering wheel feedback from 35's. Even the inexpensive stabilizers I had made a huge difference. We take a lot of surf trips down to Baja Sur and it really made prolonged dirt road missions far more comfortable. I plan to reinstall them as soon as my front end is finished.

 

That is a steering stabilizer for a sport bike. They are very small.

 

Well Shit!!

I have seen steering stabalizers like it for trucks to. Pretty sure fox has something similar.

 

I am wanting something to take stress off the rack. Figured they would just like a rack slider.

 

So, I'm undecided on what I want to do with my coil overs. They have about 100,000 miles on them, and were recharged about 30,000 miles into that. Yea, I know - way overdue for a rebuild. Pretty sure they are blown. Truck "darts" on the road when it hits a big crack and the body sway is pretty bad. Surface rust from five years in the midwest has taken its toll.

I want to go to the Fox click adjust remote reservoir. Should I buy parts and rebuild (I'll have to buy any special tools needed as well, plus the local offroad shop charges $50 to charge shocks) or just buy new coil overs?

How big of a pain in the ass is it to rebuild coil overs?

 

Same as rebuilding any other shock other than the fact that you need to remove the coil

 

Removing the coil is not an issue, although I wonder how much life those coils have left in them. My issue is the internals; I have no experience with rebuilding shocks although I am pretty mechanical. I'm stationed in Missouri - I'm the only long travel truck for a hundred miles in any direction. The local offroad shop's idea of a "suspension system" is a block lift and half dozen Rancho shocks... Hell, in Missouri if your block lifts are actual metal, and not pieces of 2x4's, you're high speed...

So basically I'd be in this on my own.

 

Plenty of videos and walk throughs online to help boost your courage

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POunLnsInQk