Show off your aux fuse panels.

I picked up a used ranger fuse box from the yard for $20.

Re-wired it so it would be more tacoma friendly...got the idea from youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aG37G9dBXv8






Install, next on the list

 

Manny that's awesome

 

This is the 3rd bracket that I've made. I think I like this one.

URL=https://www.tacomaworld.com/media/image.463869/][/URL]

 

very clean

 

Thanks

 

Started making my auxiliary fuse box platform today.




Trimmed down to size..but the mounting end isn't tall enough, as I would like it to sit lower.
Platform is made from a heavy duty steel shelf.




A few spot welds and paint left to do, and call it good...I think
May play around with mounting straight to the wheel well.

 

looking good!

 

Thanks

More progress on the auxiliary fuse box mount.






Will weld both plates together (and paint), but this is the idea I was going for.




Need to verify fit on the truck (which is at the shop this week) for final fitting.

 

Hey, I have a question for you guys with blue sea boxes.

Since any accessories can be grounded to the body or frame near the accessory itself, are you running individual accessory grounds all the way back to the "ground" section of the box solely for switching purposes?

That is, the switch in the cab is wired into the ground portion of the circuit as opposed to the power or "load" portion of the circuit?

Also, for blue sea 5026, what amperage circuit breaker is recommended, and is it a terrible idea to run without one?

Thanks!

 

Mike that's a good point. I'm embarrassed to show my ground setup.

 

I don't run all of my grounds to the box. Only the few that I have under the hood.

 

There is no reason to run the ground all the way back to the box or switch.
The 5026 is rated at
100A per block
30A per circuit

 

So to wire in a switch, the "load" wire goes from the accessory to the switch in the cab then to the fuse box. The accessory is just grounded where convenient. Thus the "load" portion of the circuit is switched, right? I think I read somewhere that it doesn't really matter if you switch the load wire or ground wire. Just two different means to an end.

Also, a 100 amp breaker is the best choice, or should I be conservative and go 80. I don't expect even half that much draw, all I got are some leds. I may go 80 just to be safe.

Thanks fellas!

 

You need a relay in there too... The load wire from the switch in the cab should go to a relay and the accessory will be powered from the relay. The fused power wire from the box will power your relay. Once you use a relay you will need to know which wires are hot. 100 is the max rated so your safe using 100 AMP breaker.
Good luck on your install...

 

So in this diagram, where would the fuse be? Also, in the diagram the accessory and pin 86 share a ground, but they don't necessarily have to be grounded to the same spot, right? For example, reverse lights can be grounded to the frame at the rear of the truck, and the relay can be grounded under the hood, at the battery or fuse block itself.

Also I should state that I plan on wiring my lights so they can be on any time, even with ignition off.

Thanks for your patience with my questions, I'm close to finally having a solid grip on basic 12v systems!

 

Correct
Fuse should be where the diagram is labelled +12V. Fuse rating should be slightly more than your intended load
Eg 100W LED light bar / 12V = 8.2A; Fuse at 10A.

 

Thanks all, this has been most helpful!

 

Final review:

2 wires come out from an led light bar (sounds like the start of a rude joke!). The ground wire runs to a convenient spot on the frame. The "load" wire runs to pin 87 of a relay. The light is now wired and done.

Next a wire runs from pin 30 of the same relay to the "load" or "in" pin of a switch mounted in the cab.

A third wire will run from the positive fuse block terminal also to the "load" or "in" pin of the switch. The 2 wires will share a single spade connector and connect to the same pin on the switch.

A fourth wire will run from the "acc" or "out" pin of the switch to pin 85 of the relay.

Finally a fifth wire will run from pin 86 of the relay to a convenient ground. This will most likely be at the fuse box itself, as the relays well be mounted on the same mounting plate as the box itself.

I think that's correct.

Final question:

Even though it is not required to run all ground wires back to the fuse box, is it still good practice to do so? I remember hearing once that if you can ground everything to the negative battery terminal you will have the best possible ground, and if there is every a problem requiring you to troubleshoot your electrical system, you only have one ground to check because everything grounds to the same place. In the instance of an aux fuse block, the negative terminals are equally as good as the negative terminal on the battery itself. It's it worth the extra wire and work?

 

Wait, the wire from pin 30 of the relay would run to the fuse block terminal then another wire from the same fuse block terminal to the "load" pin of the switch.

 

You got it close what you need is:

Ground of light bar grounded where convenient

RELAY

Pin 30 - connected to a fused power source
Pin 85 - From switch output
Pin 86 - Grounded where convenient
Pin 87 - Connected to positive of light bar

Will also need a positive lead running to the input side of your switch. If this is for a light bar would recommend a power source that is only live when the truck is on