Synthetic oil

4 banger, right?

 

Synthetic oil or bust…Dyno oil is a thing of the past, literally haha

 

Regardless of the oil you use if you have and want to maintain the engine warranty you still must change it at manufacture's recommended time or mileage so say goodbye to extended drain intervals and as for penetrating and lubricating if the part is moving any oil will penetrate and if its not moving it don't need lubrication. IMO with proper maintenance and care [especially in the rust belt] your engine will out last the truck.

 

Click and Clack brothers like syn oil.

TOM: So that means we have fewer quarts of used oil to recycle or dispose of, fewer empty oil containers in our landfills and, not incidentally, less foreign oil we have to import.

RAY: And if you spend $40 on four quarts of synthetic and change it after 10,000 miles, or $20 on four quarts of a blend and change it every 5,000 miles, you end up spending the same amount -- on the oil. But you save money on the filter and what you pay Pokey Lube for the labor. And you can skip the tailpipe polishing they inevitably sell you once they've got your car up on the lift.
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So, which should you use? Our advice is this: under most circumstances, we’d opt to use synthetic oil...

If you’re already using traditional oil, and want to make the switch to synthetic, try using a blended oil which contains a mix of traditional and synthetic oils.

Synthetic oil remains a bit more expensive than regular oil. But, over the life of the car, the differential is probably not more than a few hundred bucks — and we think that's worth it.
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http://www.cartalk.com/content/today-synthetic-oil-myths
http://www.cartalk.com/content/summer-driving-tips-3


Rest in peace Tom.

 

Yup

 

Please quote an OFFICIAL Toyota source for this statement!

 

The "leak" problem was solved a couple generations ago! Early on, they discovered that esters makes seals soften and swell, and PAO makes them shrink and crack. The solution was to formulate a mix of both, in which they balance each other out. These oils are however expensive (I run Redline).

Synthetic oils formulated to meet a lower price point will be Group III based, which has never had any seal issues.

 

I put 128,000 on a new 1977 longbed Hi-Lux 4 speed, did all the oil changes at 3k with standard oil and traditional service intervals, etc, switched to synthetic oil in 1980 (60k+/-). Sold it to a California landscaper who had 168k+ last I saw it but I doubt he continued the synthetic routine. Bought a new 1984 SR5 solid axle 4x4 5-speed, did all the synthetics, by-pass oil filter, transfer case, diffs, etc, and sold it at 128,000 to a guy that took it to Alaska and never returned to SoCal. I believe the synthetic lubricants are for the individual that intends to keep his or her vehicle in the best running condition for eternity. I'm switching over my 2014 to full synthetics and it is a used truck with 9,500 miles on it. Hopefully I'll drive it to Alaska and maybe never come back.